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Showing posts with label Image. Show all posts

HOW TO GROW GREENHOUSE TOMATO PLANTS FROM SEED



Tomatoes are grown as tender annual plants in most regions, but they are actually classed as short lived perennials in the tropics of south America - their native environment. To get the most out of your tomato crop they will require high light intensity and a temperature of 21 - 24C, however they will lose vigour if kept above 27C or below 16C. Just remember that tomato plants will not tolerate exposure to frost.

Sowing the Seed
How to grow greenhouse tomato plants from seed
Tomato seed is quite easy to handle and is best germinated using a standard seed tray filled with John Innes 'Seed and Cutting' compost. Space the seed evenly and then cover with about 1.5mm of compost. Tomato seedlings will usually germinate in about 7 to 14 days at a temperature of around 21C . For the best sowing times, see the recommendations listed in 'greenhouse' or 'outdoor' cultivation below. Pot tomato seedlings on when they are large enough to handle without the need to touch the stem.

Just by handling the leaves, transplant them carefully into 3 inch pots using John Innes No.1 potting compost. If only a few plants are required, sow two seeds into a 3 inch pot and after germination remove the smaller plant. Take care not to let the plant and seedlings get cold as frost, cold winds and draughts will cause the plants to turn bluish and in most cases die. If you live in a cold area wait a few extra weeks until the air temperature has risen. Check the compost at all stages for dryness. This is vital in the initial stages of germination as drought can cause poor germination or failure to germinate at all. If this is the case, add a little clean water from below, being careful not to overwater. Too much water can kill seedlings just as easily, as it can spread water borne fungal diseases such as 'damping off'

Greenhouse Cultivation
How to grow greenhouse tomato plants from seed
For greenhouse tomatoes first pick a recommended variety such as 'Santa', 'Matador', '

Plant the young plants when they are about 6-8 inches tall and the flowers of the first truss are just beginning to open. If you are planting into your greenhouse border make sure you have dug in plenty of organic compost during the winter.

If you have used the border before for tomatoes, it is better to change the soil or sterilise it before using it for tomatoes again. This will help avoid soil pests and root diseases becoming a problem. Just before planting, rake in a general purpose fertiliser. If you are going to use a grow bag or pot just remember they will require a lot more watering and care. Plant approximately 45cm (18in) between the plants and 75cm (30in) between the rows. In a growbag, generally plant no more than two plants per bag.

Training Plants

 How to train or when to pick your fruit will depend on the varieties and types of tomatoes grown. Cordon (indeterminate) varieties will need their side shoots removed, determinate varieties may stop flower production after several trusses, but upward growth can be carried on by training up the topmost side shoot.

Bush varieties will remain low and will not need their side shoots removal.Tomatoes require a lot of water and feed to get the best fruit. Water little and often for the best results. Feed with a general liquid feed until the first truss is formed then alternate with a high potash feed. This will encourage more flowers and fruit.

Main image credit - Mason Masteka https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/deed.en
In text image - Dennis Brown https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en
In text image - Tigris Lagoona https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en

For related articles click onto the following links:
BLIGHT RESISTANT TOMATO VARIETIES
BUY GIANT TOMATO SEEDS
BUY TOMATO 'GIGANTOMO' - 8 Seeds
HOW TO COLLECT AND PREPARE TOMATO SEEDS FOR PROPAGATION
HOW TO GROW EGGPLANTS FROM SEED
How to Grow Giant Tomatoes
HOW TO GROW OUTDOOR TOMATO PLANTS FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW TOMATOES
HOW TO GROW TOMATOES IN POTS
HOW TO MAKE A TRADITIONAL ITALIAN TOMATO SAUCE
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ORGANIC AND CULTURAL CONTROL OF POTATO BLIGHT

Organic and cultural control of potato blight


Potato Blight – Phytophthora infestans - is one of the world's most widely known plant pathogens largely because of the devastating social effects that followed after the destruction of the Irish potato crops in 1845-1850.
 
Unfortunately, even after over 150 years of research, there is still no known cure for this dreadful disease even though there are now many chemical available that can control its spread. So in light of this – and in an attempt to eat a better quality of food - perhaps the best method of control is to try and avoid an infection of Potato Blight in the first place. Below is a list of the best cultural and organic practices which will reduce the incidence of infection by this highly invasive and damaging fungus.

Organic and cultural control of potato blight
1. Any plant material or debris that is believed to have been infected by blight should be burned to prevent the risk of further infection.

2. Effective ‘earthing’ up can help protect the underground tubers from being infected by soil borne blight spores. Although these spores can survive in the soil for several weeks, they cannot penetrate deeply into it. You could also try and secure polythene sheeting under the plants to act as an effective barrier against the spores from entering the soil.

3. If you have the space available consider increasing the distance between tubers at planting time. This will allow a better circulation of air and will reduce the conditions of high relative humidity necessary for the effective formation of viable blight spores.

4. Remove all ‘groundskeepers’. These are infected tubers which remain as weeds from previous crops. Either remove and burn them or change your next crop to cereals.

5. Avoid storing potatoes anywhere that may be damp. Although your crop may not be infected, you may be providing ideal conditions for an infection to take hold that can blow in from infected neighbouring potatoes.

6. Do not water from overhead when blight is actively sporing on the foliage as this can provide ideal conditions for these new spores to leach through the soil and infect the tubers.

7. Never lift your crop when there is evidence of blight on the foliage. Remove and burn infected foliage first to reduce the infection from being transfer to the tubers as they are lifted from the soil.

8. Problems with blight are normally far worse during the higher humidities of late summer and early autumn. Therefore losses from blight can be reduced and even avoided by encouraging the tubers to crop earlier. This can be achieved by chitting the seed at the earliest possible time.
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9. If you believe that the use of traditional copper fungicides is within the bounds of organic gardening then you can use them to control the disease should a serious outbreak occur. However you must be aware that even though many chemicals have been developed that can effectively control potato blight there are as yet no methods that can actually kill it.

Main image is in the public domain because it contains materials that originally came from the Agricultural Research Service, the research agency of the United States Department of Agriculture.

 For related articles click onto the following links:
BLIGHT RESISTANT TOMATO VARIETIES
HOW CAN YOU TELL WHEN TO HARVEST POTATOES?
HOW MANY CALORIES ARE IN A POTATO?
HOW TO CONTROL SLUG DAMAGE ON POTATO TUBERS
HOW TO GROW POTATOES
HOW TO GROW TOMATOES IN POTS
HOW TO RECOGNISE POTATO BLIGHT - Phytophthora infestans
MAKE YOUR OWN ORGANIC PYRETHRUM INSECTICIDE
MASHED POTATO
ORGANIC CONTROL OF ASPARAGUS RUST
ORGANIC CONTROL OF CATERPILLARS
SLUG AND BLIGHT RESISTANT POTATO VARIETIES
WHAT IS SHOT HOLE DISEASE?
WHAT IS TOMATO BLIGHT?
WHY AND HOW TO CHIT POTATOES
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HOW TO GROW OUTDOOR TOMATO PLANTS FROM SEED



To make the most of your new seasons tomato crop you can start off your seeds quite early either indoors or in a heated greenhouse. This is done usually about six to eight weeks before the last frosts are anticipated. In Great Britain this would usually be around May, but if you are not sure a good guideline would be to put plants out when average day temperatures are reaching over 20 degrees Celsius and when night temperatures aren't dropping below 10 degrees Celsius. Be careful with your timing though because if you start too early your seedlings can outgrow their pots resulting in weak, and "leggy" plants. If they are planted outdoors in this condition then valuable time is wasted while the plants devote energy to recovering their health, rather than to producing normal growth and flower production.

How to grow outdoor tomatoes from seed
Whether you are starting with shop bought packet tomato seeds or using those you have collected yourselves, the technique will be the same. Sow your tomato seeds - adequately spaced - into a seed tray containing John Innes ‘seed’ compost. Top them off with another half inch of compost then gently water them in. It's important that the seeds remain moist until they germinate and as such will require adequate ventilation to prevent fungal rots. If ventilation is poor you may need to spray your newly germinating seedlings with a liquid fungicide once a week to protect them. It should take anywhere between 3 to 5 days before they germinate.

Once germinated, tomato seedlings will require plenty of light, in fact for optimal growth they will need a good 12 to 16 hours of light a day. If the weather isn't yet suitable for planting outside then they will need to be placed onto a south-facing window sill but remember to turn them daily to keep them from taking on a permanent lean. Once the seedlings have produced four leaves they will be ready to prick out into individual pots, but you need to be careful so as not to damage the fragile root system. The safest way is to gently hold onto one of the sturdier leaves while using either a pencil or slim dibber to lift the roots as intact and undisturbed as possible.

How to grow outdoor tomatoes from seed
When repotting, use either a standard multi-purpose compost or John Innes ‘No.1’ or ‘No.2’ potting compost. Place the seedling in the pot then carefully backfill so as to cover most of the seedlings stem, leaving just the leaves showing above the soil line. If the pot is tall enough, try to leave some space at the top of the pot, as more soil can be added as the plant grows. Although this seems contrary to normal practice, tomato plants readily produce dormant root nodules at the base of them. By ‘earthing’ them up you can encourage far more root growth which in turn will be able to support are far greater cropping plant.

Once the threat of frost is over you can be safely plant your mature tomato seedlings outside. Like most garden plants success is all in the preparation and tomatoes love a rich, free-draining soil that has had plenty of organic compost or well-rotted farm manure added. When it come to planting try placing young tomatoes either on their side so that they are lying horizontally in a trench or up to their first set of leaves in a deep hole. With either situation, back fill the plants with soil and water in. Roots will develop all along the underground stems helping to produce bigger plants and bigger crops.

Main image credit - Mason Masteka https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/deed.en
In text image - Dennis Brown https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en
In text image - Tigris Lagoona https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en

For related articles click onto the following links:
BLIGHT RESISTANT TOMATO VARIETIES
BUY GIANT TOMATO SEEDS
BUY TOMATO 'GIGANTOMO' - 8 Seeds
HOW TO COLLECT AND PREPARE TOMATO SEEDS FOR PROPAGATION
HOW TO CONTROL MOSAIC VIRUS ON TOMATOES
HOW TO GROW GREENHOUSE TOMATO PLANTS FROM SEED
How to Grow Giant Tomatoes
HOW TO GROW OUTDOOR TOMATO PLANTS FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW TOMATOES
HOW TO GROW TOMATOES IN POTS
RHS Tomatoes
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HOW TO COLLECT AND PREPARE STRAWBERRY SEED FOR PROPAGATION


How to collect and prepare strawberry seed for propagation


Perhaps the simplest way to grow strawberries from seed is to plant one of the matured, dried off fruits.This can either be planted directly into the ground or preferably potted on into John Innes seed compost with a light covering of compost or horticultural grit on top.

However, the best way to grow strawberry from seed is to do a little research first to find out which is your favorite variety or varieties. There is good reason for this because (as with many cultivated varieties) any seedlings produced will be the product of cross pollination (natural hybridization) and the resulting progeny will not grow true to type. Put simply, if your seedlings are at the very least a hybrid of your favorite chosen varieties then once they fruit you can select which plants suit your taste most and discard any of those which don't. Alternatively, only grow seeds from species strawberries and known to grow true from seed or choose F1 hybrid seed. Click here to find out What is an F1 Hybrid?


How to collect and prepare strawberry seed for propagation
When the fruits are fully ripe (you can tell this as they will be mushy and well past their best for eating) remove 4-5 healthy berries and place them in a blender together with a liter of water. Set the blender to its lowest speed and allow to run for 10 seconds or so.

Once the mix has settled remove any floating seeds as these won't be viable. Pour the remaining mixture into a sieve and rinse the pulp through until you have mostly seeds left. Sow the seeds lightly onto a seed tray filled with John Innes ‘seed and potting’ compost. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost and gently water.

Transfer the seed tray to a cold, greenhouse or even a well lit room to germinate and this should take anywhere between 2 and 8 weeks. Once germinated the seedlings can be gently lifted and potted on into 9 cm pots. Come the following autumn they should be ready to transplant outside ready for fruiting the following year.

If you don’t have the use of a blender try these other methods for seed extraction. The first is to allow the fruit to dry naturally outside over the summer period and then when ready, rub it with your fingers allowing the seeds to fall into a suitable container. The other is to press the mature fruit pulp gently through a sieve, and then wash the seeds clear of any remaining pulp while they are still in the sieve. Although you will not get the separation of viable and nonviable seeds it doesn't stop you from sowing them.

If you intend to store the seeds then they must be allowed to dry thoroughly. You can tell when they are dry as they will no longer stick to each other and will move easily within their container. When they are ready, place them into a labelled envelope and keep them in a cool dry place until they are ready for sowing.

Main image credit - By Dietmar Rabich, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=40710041
In text image - By Tarun.real - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=40409522


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Strawberry propagation
HOW TO COLLECT, PREPARE AND SAVE OKRA SEED FOR GERMINATION
HOW TO GROW STRAWBERRIES
HOW TO GROW STRAWBERRIES FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW STRAWBERRIES IN POTS AND CONTAINERS
HOW TO OVERWINTER STRAWBERRIES
HOW TO PROPAGATE STRAWBERRIES
HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM STRAWBERRY PLANTS
HOW TO GROW TAYBERRIES
Strawberry Alpine - 320 Seeds
Strawberry 'Floridian' Ever bearer - 15 Seeds
STRAWBERRY PLANT PESTS AND DISEASES
THE STRAWBERRY TREE - Arbutus unedo
What is a Pineberry

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HOW TO GROW STRAWBERRIES FROM SEED


How to grow strawberries from seed


Most strawberry plants are cultivated hybrids that won't grow true from seed, however they will if there are species plants such as the alpine varieties or one of the new range of F 1 cultivars that are now available. Luckily, should you manage to find some suitable seeds you will find that they are surprisingly easy to germinate.

How to grow strawberries from seed
These seeds can be lightly sown onto a seed tray filled with a good quality compost such as John Innes ‘Seed and Cutting’ compost.

Cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost - no more than 1/4 inch - and gently water in.
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Transfer the seed tray to a cold, greenhouse or even a well-lit room as both are suitable for germination which should take anywhere between 2 and 8 weeks. If the seedlings are at risk of slug or snail damage then place a sheet of glass or clear plastic over the top of the seed tray.

Once germinated, the seedlings can be gently lifted and potted on into 9 cm pots using John Innes 'No.1' or 'No.2'. Try and disturb the roots as little as possible.

Come the following autumn they should be ready to transplant outside ready for fruiting the following year.

Main image credit - By Dietmar Rabich, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=40710041
In text image - By Tarun.real - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=40409522

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CAN YOU EAT SEA BUCK THORN BERRIES?
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HOW TO GROW STRAWBERRIES
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HOW TO GROW STRAWBERRIES IN POTS AND CONTAINERS
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HOW TO OVERWINTER STRAWBERRIES
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Strawberry Alpine - 320 Seeds
Strawberry 'Floridian' Ever bearer - 15 Seeds
STRAWBERRY PLANT PESTS AND DISEASES
THE STRAWBERRY TREE - Arbutus
What is a Fig?
What is a Pineberry

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HOW TO GROW THE SAFFRON CROCUS - Crocus sativus

How to grow the saffron crocus - Crocus sativus


Unlike its ornamental cousins which seem to be able to grow anywhere, the Crocus sativus is a tricky plant to grow in the British climate. This is all down to its Mediterranean origins, but by keeping to a few simple rules you should be able to create a perfectly acceptable environment that will produce a successful – although extremely small – crop of saffron spice year on year.

How to grow the saffron crocus - Crocus sativus
Although its ancestors are now unknown in the wild, the domesticated plant that exists today requires a rich fertile soil that will reliably dry out and even bake during the summer. This hot dry period is vital as it creates the dormancy period required to trigger flower initiation in the autumn.

Traditionally the Saffron crocus was grown in raised containers to guarantee good drainage. This would have given the Tudor gardeners control over the root environment ensuring that the vital dormancy period occurs. In modern European commercial practices, the Saffron crocus is planted into pockets of land that slope towards the sun. That way they get almost all day exposure to the heat and light, as well as the excellent drainage provided from the sloping ground. It makes sense then to place your bulbs in a fully open and sunny site, and planted into a very well-drained soil.

How to grow the saffron crocus - Crocus sativus
Given the choice they grow best in a friable, clay-calcareous soil with a high organic content – back in the Tudor times a well rotted farm manures would have been applied before planting, but surprisingly no further applications were ever given. Nowadays though, they are normally given a feed of potash at the end of the summer to help promote flowering.

Plant them 6 inches apart, and - unlike most small bulbs - plant them comparatively deep, about 6 inches or so. This planting depth is another critical factor as this can affect the plants spice yields. The current rule of thumb is that the deeper the saffron corm is planted the better the quality of spice is produced. Unfortunately there is also down-side to this as your plants will have fewer flowers and will produce less bulblets for propagation later.

Mice and squirrels can also be a real problem when you are trying to grow crocus as they capable of destroying trays of bulbs in a single night. Dipping the bulbs in liquid paraffin can sometimes work, but covering them with a very fine-mesh wire under the soil is usually the best method.

Main image credit - Safa.daneshvar - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=31281826
In text image - Crocus sativus - Köhler–s Medizinal-Pflanzen-194.jpg Public domain
In text image - Hubert l https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/deed.en

For related article click onto the following links:
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HOW TO GROW CROCUS
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HOW TO GROW GLADIOLI
HOW TO GROW GLADIOLI FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW IRIS BULBS
HOW TO GROW PLANTS
HOW TO GROW SAFFRON
HOW TO PROPAGATE THE SAFFRON CROCUS
Telegraph: Saffron Crocus
WHAT IS SAFFRON?
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HOW TO GROW CROCUS FROM SEED


Most crocus are relatively straight forward to germinate from seed, in particular the most popular spring flowering varieties. Although it will take a few years before your new plants come into flower this is an excellent way to build up large numbers of stock.

Try to obtain the seed as soon as it ripens on the plant as this is when they will be at their most viable. These can be found in swollen sheaths close to the ground - as shown in the accompanying photograph - around May/June time depending on the variety.

How to grow crocus from seed
Sow the fresh seed thinly onto a compost mix of two parts John Innes 'seed and cutting' to one part vermiculite. Add a good layer of horticultural grit onto the surface and gently water in. Finely spray the surface with a copper fungicide such as cheshunt compound, and then transfer them into either a coldframe or unheated greenhouse. During this period try to keep the compost moist. Good ventilation is very important for growing crocus seedlings so if it is poor where you are keeping them you may need further applications of fungicide to protect them from fungal infections.

Crocus seeds need a warm period followed by a cold spell in order to initiate germination, but if the seasonal temperatures are sporadic, dormancy will not be broken and the seed will need to wait until the following year. Any longer than that and the seeds tend to lose their viability. If this becomes a problem then you may need to refrigerate them for a month or so to break the dormancy and initiate germination.

It can take anywhere between 1 and 6 months for the seeds to germinate with the spring flowering varieties expected to germinate any time between January and March. Because of this 'winter' germination pattern it's a good idea to try and keep these new plants from freezing again once germinated. At this stage they are extremely vulnerable and can easily be killed off if frozen when wet. Before germination it's best to try keep them in a greenhouse where the temperature doesn't go much below 1 or 2 degrees Celsius. Then, as soon as they have germinated they can be kept a little warmer, but once again make sure that there is good ventilation to prevent the occurrence of rots.

Once your juvenile plants are growing the key thing to keep an eye on is attack by the various fungal infections that are out there. To help avoid this make sure that when they are potted on they go into a well drained compost and do not allow them to become waterlogged or left to stand in water.

Now they they are growing they can be periodically feed with a weak fertilizer as this will to help bolster up the young corms. Re-pot them every year into a richer compost such as John Innes 'No 2 or 3' but again add plenty of extra horticultural grit or vermiculite for drainage. You can also give them a good top dressing of grit to help keep the neck of the plants dry. By the third year your new plants should come into flower and are now sturdy enough to plant outside in the garden.

In text image - Franz Eugen Köhler, Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen Public domain

For related articles click onto the following links:
CROCUS 'ORANGE MONARCH'
CROCUS 'PICKWICK'
HOW TO GROW CROCUS
HOW TO GROW CROCUS FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW THE SAFFRON CROCUS - Crocus sativus
HOW TO PROPAGATE THE SAFFRON CROCUS
SRGC How to Grow Crocus from Seed
WHAT IS SAFFRON?
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HOW TO PROPAGATE THE SAFFRON CROCUS

How to propagate the saffron crocus



Although found in the bulb section of most plant retailers come autumn, the saffron crocus actually grows from compressed underground stems known as corms. These corms come complete with dormant buds, each one capable of growing into a genetically identical plant. Each year one new corm will grow on top of the old one, together with some smaller ones which will grow from the base of the plant. These smaller juvenile corms are known as cormels. Their resemblance to a typical bulb is so similar that the difference isn't particularly important until you come to vegetatively propagate from it.

How to propagate the saffron crocus
If you originally grew your crocus from pre-packed corms, you will be able to lift these after three years growth for propagation, breaking off these smaller outer corms away from the mother plant. These can either be potted on or planted at a new location. By thinning out your crocus in this manner once every 6 years you will also help to ensure that your plants will remain healthy and strong flowering. This method of division is done during the corms dormant period - usually around July to August, and although it is the easiest way to increase your stocks of saffron bulbs there are two other techniques that can be employed to increase your stocks far more quickly.

The first technique is the simplest involving the removal of the main stem. This can either be cut or broken away from the main stem or you may wish to try digging it out of the parent corm using the tip of a sharp knife.

Whichever way you decide to use, dust the exposed surface with a fungicidal powder, then allow the prepared corms to dry in a warm environment for 48 hours to seal any exposed surfaces. The prepared corm is now ready for potting on into a good soil based compost or outside directly into the ground. This method will encourage the dormant buds to break creating a far more successful divisions later on.

The second technique is to cut the parent corm into four equal sections making sure that there is at least one good dormant bud on each section. Dust the cut sides with a fungicidal powder and allow the exposed sections to callous off overnight in a warm dark place such as an airing cupboard. Once again these are now ready to be planted.

Unfortunately propagation by seed isn't an option as this species is a sterile triploid and so does not produce fertile seed. However, if by chance seed is obtained then it is best sown as soon as it is ripe into a cold frame. Click onto How to Grow Crocus from Seed for more information.

Main image credit - Safa.daneshvar - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=31281826
In text image - Crocus sativus - Köhler–s Medizinal-Pflanzen-194.jpg Public domain

For related articles click onto the following links:
CROCUS 'ORANGE MONARCH'
CROCUS 'PICKWICK'
Growing Saffron Crocus
HOW TO GROW CROCUS
HOW TO GROW CROCUS FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW SAFFRON
HOW TO GROW THE SAFFRON CROCUS - Crocus sativus
HOW TO GROW IRIS BULBS
WHAT IS SAFFRON?
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SLUG AND BLIGHT RESISTANT POTATO VARIETIES


Slug and blight resistant potato varieties


If you have never eaten home grown potatoes before then you may be in for a bit of a surprise. So familiar are we with the shop bought, and flavourless offerings that are produced by the commercial boys, the taste of home grown potatoes will not only bring back forgotten childhood memories when food actually tasted of something (if you are old enough that is), but eating potatoes that actually taste of potatoes can also be a bit of a revelation.

Unfortunately there are two problems that you are likely to come across when growing your own potatoes and that is the unsightly damage caused by slugs and late potato blight. However it also brings you two choices. You can either try to control these problems using either cultural or chemical methods, or you can choose your varieties wisely by growing ones which have been selected for their resistance to slug and blight damage. The important word here is 'resistant' and not slug or blight 'proof' - as yet there is still no such thing unless you are prepare to grow genetically modified produce.

BLIGHT RESISTANCE

Slug and blight resistant potato varieties
For blight resistant varieties some of the best at the moment are Sante, Remarks, Valor and Robinta. Unfortunately you will be hard pressed to find these varieties at your average, local plant retailer.

However, for blight resistant first earlies that are easy to find, look for Arran Pilot, Epicure, Pentland Javelin, Rocket, and Swift.

For Second earlies try Estima, Kestrel (Very resistant to slug damage), Maris Peer, Nadine, and Romano (both slug and blight resistant).

For main crops choose from the following - Cara (unfortunately prone to slug damage), Desiree (drought and slug resistant), Golden Wonder, and Sarpo Mira (very good slug resistance and excellent blight resistance).

New blight resistant varieties that have have been testing very well are Sárpo Mira, Sárpo Axona and Sárpo Tominia. Keep an eye out for these as even though they are not available yet, they should be reaching plant retail outlets over the next couple of years.

SLUG RESISTANCE

Slug and blight resistant potato varieties
For first earlies the best varieties to plant for resistance to damage from slugs is Arran Pilot and Swift.

For second earlies go for Kestrel, Estima, Epicure, Maris Peer or Nadine.

For maincrop choose from Golden Wonder and Romano.

It's worth mentioning those varieties which have a poor resistance to slug damage and should be avoided if you are already aware of a slug problem where you intend to grow you new potato crops. The varieties most susceptible to slug damage are Maris Piper, Cara and Rooster.

Potato blight image is in the public domain because it contains materials that originally came from the Agricultural Research Service, the research agency of the United States Department of Agriculture.
Slug image credit - Job at English Wikipedia https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en

For related articles click onto the following links:
HOW CAN YOU TELL WHEN TO HARVEST POTATOES?
HOW MANY CALORIES ARE IN A POTATO?
HOW TO CONTROL SLUG DAMAGE ON POTATO TUBERS
HOW TO GROW POTATOES
HOW TO GROW POTATOES IN A BAG
HOW TO GROW POTATOES IN POTS OR CONTAINERS
HOW TO RECOGNISE POTATO BLIGHT - Phytophthora infestans
MASHED POTATO
ORGANIC AND CULTURAL CONTROL OF POTATO BLIGHT
SLUG RESISTANT BEDDING PLANTS
Slug resistant varieties
WHAT ARE THE SAFE ORGANIC ALTERNATIVES TO SLUG PELLETS
WHY AND HOW TO CHIT POTATOES
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STRAWBERRY PLANT PESTS AND DISEASES


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APHIDS

Causes: Aphids are a well known pest insect that can quickly colonise the soft tissue parts of your plant. They damage and weaken the plant by sucking the sap out of pressurised parenchyma cells found just below the leaf's surface.

Symptoms: Clusters of these small insects are readily identifiable, normally at the plants tips or on the underside of their leaves. In severe cases, the infected parts can begin to wither due to the quantity of sap being removed from that area.

Treatment: There are many chemical treatments available including a number of organic, but all of these must be applied at the first signs of infection to achieve the best effect.

For further information click onto:
Sacrificial Planting
How to Make a Natural and Organic Insecticide for Aphids
How to Make your Own Organic Pyrethrum Insecticide
Which Plants Attract Aphid Predators to the Garden?

SLUGS AND SNAILS

Causes: Slugs are the gardeners No.1 pest and fully ripe strawberries are an absolute magnet for them. The reason strawberries have the word 'straw' in their name is because not only was it used to protect the fruits from fungal rots by lifting off of damp ground but it was used to as an effective barrier against slug and snail attack.

Symptoms: After an attack by slugs and snail you would normally find characteristic slime trails around and on your plants and fruit. Also, if the ripening fruit is eaten, you will find irregular holes in it caused by their rasping toothed tongues.

Treatment: Outside of using slug pellets which can bring about its own collection of environmental problems, click onto What are the Safe Organic Alternative to Slug Pellets for a full selection of organic controls.


STRAWBERRY POWDERY MILDEW

Causes: This is a particular problem on strawberries especially during hot dry summers. Caused by the fungus Sphaerotheca macularis it can also be a problem on other soft fruit such as blackberries and raspberries.

Symptoms: Strawberry powdery mildew can be recognised by the appearance of powdery, grey-white patches appearing on the undersides of leaves. This is accompanied by reddish brown markings on the top side of the leaves which curl upwards along the markings as though suffering from drought. If the problem is not addressed the fungus can go on to infect both flowers and fruit, ruining the crop.

Treatments: It is possible to avoid these fungal attacks by planting resistant varieties such as 'Cambridge Favourite and 'Red Gauntlet and by trying to improve air circulation around your plants. However if this problem does occur remove and burn all affected plant matter, and in extreme cases you may wish to spray with a copper based fungicide.

GREY MOULD

Causes: Grey mould of strawberries is caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea, which can infect both the flowers and the fruits. This can greatly reduce fruit yields and is considered to be one of the most damaging diseases of strawberry cultivation. Botrytis is most prevalent during prolonged cool, wet weather during bloom and near harvest.

Symptoms: Blossoms commonly turn brown and die. A soft, light brown rot may appear on any part of the berry, but generally occurs first in the area of the cap, destroying the berry within 48 hours. The infected fruit spot is at first a light brown color and somewhat soft in texture. As the entire berry becomes infected, the rotted area becomes firm and turns a darker brown color. Fruits soon "mummify" and, like the blossoms, become covered with a gray, dusty powder which are the spores of the Botrytis fungus. Berries resting on damp soil or touching infected plant parts are most commonly infected. Botrytis fungi overwinter as dark-colored, resting bodies (sclerotia) on dead tissue. In the spring during cool humid weather, spores form and spread by wind or water to wounded or extremely soft plant tissues. Infection can also occur from growth of fungal mycelium from previously infected plant parts. The fungus can survive on decaying vegetation so it can infect healthy plants throughout the growing season.

Treatments: Collecting and removing infected plant parts can slow the spread of the disease, but this needs to be done frequently, especially over the fruiting period Improve air circulation around the plants, by spacing the plants widely when planting and remove older leaves so that adequate airflow speed up the drying of vegetation. Try and only work on the plants when they are dry and avoid spring applications of nitrogen fertilizer. High nitrogen levels promote excessive leaf growth and therefore increase the available surface area prone to infection. Harvest fruit regularly while removing and disposing of any rotten or severely damaged fruit as the season progresses. Don't forget the traditional practice of applying straw under the berries to raise them off of damp soil as well as helping to improve air circulation around them.

Main image credit - Tarun.real https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/deed.en

For related articles click onto the following links:
ALPINE STRAWBERRY 'Mignonette' SEEDS - 320 Seeds
HOW TO COLLECT AND PREPARE STRAWBERRY SEED FOR PROPAGATION
HOW TO GROW STRAWBERRIES FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW STRAWBERRIES IN POTS AND CONTAINERS
HOW TO GROW TAYBERRIES
HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM STRAWBERRY PLANTS
HOW TO OVERWINTER STRAWBERRIES
Strawberry Alpine - 320 Seeds
Strawberry 'Floridian' Ever bearer - 15 Seeds
Strawberry Disease Control
TULIP DISEASES
What is a Pineberry
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THE GLORY LILY - Gloriosa rothschildiana

Close up of the red and yellow flowers of the Glory Lily - Gloriosa rothschildiana
The Gloriosa Lily or Gloriosa rothschildiana
WANT TO BUY GLORY LILY SEEDS? THEN CLICK HERE FOR THE 'SEEDS OF EADEN’ SEED SHOP

The Glory Lily - otherwise known as the Gloriosa Lily or Gloriosa rothschildiana - is perhaps one the most delicate and beautifully flowering climbing plants you will ever come across. A native of North Africa, this exceptional plant was named after Baron Z.W. Rothschild, a renowned ornithologist who brought it back to enter it into the English Horticultural Society’s exhibition of 1901.

Related to the Lilium family, the Glory lily is a tender tuberous rooted perennial climber that will require cold protection in all but the mildest areas within Great Britain.

A piece of glory lily root
Root section of Glory lily
Despite its tropical looks the Glory Lily is relatively easy to grow. It is best off started in pots and then transferring them to the ground during May to June once the threat of late frosts have passed.

Similar to the oriental lilies the growth of the Glory Lily is upright at first, but these are climbing plants that love to scramble. If you look carefully you'll see that the tip of each leaf has a barbed end which it uses to support itself on whatever is at hand to climb on.

With an overall height of about 2 metres you can place this plant either against a small piece of trellis against a sunny wall or you can place it amongst the borders with the support of an ornamental obelisk. You should expect to see the first set of flowers opening out around July.

Wherever you place it it's important to make sure that it can get as much sunlight and ventilation as possible. If you intend to grow it in a pot , choose one with a bit of weight to it, preferably an unglazed, porous terracotta pot, that way when the plant gets a little top heavy it is at less risk of being blown over. Also you can consider planting the whole pot into the ground for better protection making it easier for lifting before the cold weather of winter is back upon us.

A display composed of a bag of compost. Vermiculite, bone-meal and potted glory lily root
How to grow the Glory Lily
Typically, the Glory Lily will be purchased as pre-packed root sections in the spring. Using loam-based compost - with either horticultural grit, perlite or vermiculite or bark chippings to aid drainage. To help give it a head start you can also throw in a handful of growmore or bone meal, just make sure that it is mixed in thoroughly before planting.

Plant the bulbs 3-4" deep, in larger pots you can plant several specimens so long as they are about 6" apart. Just lay them on their sides and cover them up - they will know which way is up. Water well, thoroughly soaking the compost and then allow any residue to drain away. If kept in a warm room you can expect to see new shoots in two to three weeks.

During the growing season the Glory lily should be watered thoroughly, but again, they will need to be allowed to dry out almost completely before re-watering – never leave them waterlogged or standing in water as this can encourage rots. When growing begins in the spring they should be given a liquid feed once a week to encourage new growth. Later on in the season a half strength fertilizer added to the water every two weeks will keep plants blooming strongly throughout the summer and sometimes further into early autumn.

To save your tubers from one year to the next it’s best to stop watering the plants from about the end of October. Allow the compost to fully dry off and any foliage to die back down. Now place the pot in a warm dry area over the winter period where temperatures will not go below 5°Celsius. As soon as the threat of frosts has passed, the compost has been allowed to dry out. You may wish to re-pot your Glory Lily into a larger one at this time. The new seasons growth should appear after about three weeks, at which point you can put your glory lily back outside.

Main image credit - Kwelstr https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en
All other images - Simon Eade gardenofeaden@gmail.com

For related articles click onto the following links:
CLIMBING PLANTS FOR AUTUMN COLOUR
CROWN IMPERIAL LILY - Fritillaria imperialis
DRACUNCULUS VULGARIS - The Dragonlily
Gardeners World Glory Lily
HOW TO GROW CANNA LILIES
HOW TO GROW THE CROWN IMPERIAL LILY
HOW TO GROW THE GIANT HIMALAYAN LILY FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW THE GINGER LILY FROM SEED
HOW TO OVERWINTER THE GLORY LILY – Gloriosa rothschildiana
HOW TO PLANT LILY BULBS
HOW TO PROPAGATE THE FOXTAIL LILY
LILIUM NEPALENSE - The Lily of Nepal
MADONNA LILY - Lilium candidum
SENECIO SCANDENS
THE BLACK LILY - Lilium 'Landini'
THE CANNA LILY
THE GIANT HIMALAYAN LILY
The Golden Foxtail lily - Eremurus bungei
TURK'S CAP LILY - Lilium martagon
THE JAPANESE COBRA LILY - Arisaema ringens
THE PERSIAN LILY - Fritillaria persica
TRACHELOSPERMUM JASMINOIDES
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WHY AND HOW TO CHIT POTATOES




Chitting (sometimes known as sprouting) potatoes is one of those practices handed down through the generations that appears to encapsulate the mysteries of gardening. It's one of the jobs that gardeners will do without question but when you ask them why they do it - most of them won't have an answer.
Compared to the potatoes natural habitat of 'subtropical' South America, the English climate isn't perhaps the first place you would think to grow these staple crops, but with centuries of selective breeding the modern potato now does very well in our soils. There is one problem though that still remains and that is our comparatively short growing season and this is where the art of chitting comes in.

Seeds potato with emerging eyes
Why and how to chit potatoes
While our soil temperatures remain below about 10 degrees Celsius not much will happen as the potato - a modified storage organ - is in a state of natural dormancy. Left to their own devices, by the time the soil has warmed up sufficiently to break the dormancy period and begin the new season growth the majority of potato plants won't be ready to crop until the late summer or even autumn. The reality of this growth cycle means that we need to 'force' the seed potatoes into growth artificially by introducing light and heat - normally provided by a warm, well lit room. This stimulates the production of new shoots and kick starts the potato out of it normal dormancy and reduce the time until cropping from anywhere between 1 and 2 months.

There are other advantages to breaking the dormancy by chittings as modern early cultivars will crop far earlier and more heavily. You can help the process further by rubbing off all but the four strongest sprouts so that the tuber's energy is diverted into a few really strong shoots that form the new potatoes as early as possible. Second early and maincrop potatoes also benefit from chitting but they don't need a thinning out of the sprouts. Chitting late cropping varieties will result in them producing their foliage earlier and hopefully produce new potatoes before being hit with infections of potato blight or problems with summer droughts. Again, they will mature earlier and can be gathered before slugs do too much damage the tubers.

You can buy seed potatoes from as early as January but it is probably better to wait until the beginning or middle of February before you begin chitting potatoes. Put the seed potatoes into a box where they can be supported in an upright position - cardboard egg boxes are ideal for this – and place them indoors into a light and airy position. During this time they will require a cool temperature of a little over 10 degrees Celsius. Position them so that the end which has the most eyes (dormant sprouts) are uppermost and the 'stalk' end where they were severed from the parent plant is at the bottom. The new sprouts will form in a couple of weeks and - as mentioned before - it's good practice to remove the weaker sprouts leaving four of the strongest to continue. As a general rule of thumb it will normally take about six weeks to chit a batch of potatoes.

If the weather is unsuitable at the time of planting then you can remove all of the sprouts and start again. Also, if you have positioned some of your potatoes upside down and the potatoes sprout from the wrong end, simply rub off the sprouts and turn the potato the right way up. Keep them where they are while the shoots are developing and they can stay there until they are ready for planting later on in March.

Main image credit - Running trees https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/deed.en
In text credit - Mathias Karlsson https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en

For related articles click onto the following links:
Gardeners World: How to Chit Potatoes
HOW MANY CALORIES ARE IN A POTATO?
HOW CAN YOU TELL WHEN TO HARVEST POTATOES?
HOW TO GROW POTATOES
HOW TO GROW POTATOES
HOW TO GROW POTATOES IN A BAG
HOW TO GROW POTATOES IN POTS OR CONTAINERS
MASHED POTATO
SLUG AND BLIGHT RESISTANT POTATO VARIETIES
WHEN ARE POTATOES READY TO HARVEST
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