HOW TO GROW EUONYMUS ALATUS - THE BURNING BUSH

How to grow Euonymus alatus

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Commonly known as the 'burning bush' or 'winged spindle tree', Euonymus alatus is for the most part a rather unexceptional specimen. Native to central and northern China, Japan, and Korea it is a hardy deciduous shrub noted for the corky ridges or 'wings' which appear as the stems mature. However it is mostly considered for garden space due to its spectacular autumn colour as the leave turn a brilliant crimson-pink prior to leaf-drop. Hence the popular and far more relevant common name of 'burning bush'.

How to grow Euonymus alatus

It was introduced to British science in 1860; however it wasn't until 1984 that it received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society. The common name of 'Spindle tree' is in reference to it close relation to Euonymus europaeus - the wood from which was traditionally used for the making of spindles for spinning wool.

Under favourable conditions you can expect Euonymus alatus to grow to a height of 2.5 metres tall, and up to 3 m wide. The species name 'alatus' is from the Latin for winged and refers to the broad cork structures which appear on the branchlets. The ovate-elliptic leaves are between 2–7 cm in length and 1–4 cm wide with an acute apex. The small flowers are greenish colour and appear over a long period in the spring although they are fairy insignificant to the eye. The fruits are reddish-purple which open to reveal bright orange-coated seeds.

Euonymus alatus will perform will in most soils but will prefer a moist, well-drained soil. It will be happy in either full sun or partial shade. Plant fro October to March.

Pruning of Euonymus alatus is not particularly necessary although the shoots can be thinned out and shortened in February in order to maintain a tidy form.

Main image credit - Simon Eade gardenofeaden@gmail.com
In text image -  Famartin https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

ARE CHERRY LAUREL FRUIT POISONOUS?

Are Cherry Laurel fruit poisonous?

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They look like cherries and, when they are lying on the ground fermenting, they smell like rotten cherries. However if you have young kids or idiot dogs around, whether the fruits of the Cherry Laurel are poisonous or not is probably a question that is likely to cross your mind. Especially when you consider the huge amount of fruit drop you can get from a single mature specimen.

Native to southwestern Asia and south-eastern Europe, and sometimes commonly known as the English Laurel by the Americans (I don't understand why either), the cherry laurel -  Prunus laurocerasus is an large evergreen shrub or small tree grown for its large, glossy, leathery foliage. It is a widely cultivated ornamental plant most often used for hedging which accounts for why there are so many large, fruiting specimens around.

Surprisingly for many plant common names, the name 'Cherry laurel' is surprisingly accurate as not only are the fruits cherry-like in appearance, this species is indeed from the genus Prunus where all the ornamental and edible cherry species and cultivars reside.

So if the Cherry Laurel is so closely related to edible cherries that that mean that the fruits are not poisonous?

Well both the foliage and the fruit stones contain cyano-lipids which are capable of releasing cyanide and benzaldehyde when ingested, particularly when chewed. The fruits themselves are edible although rather flavourless and somewhat astringent. To a lesser extent the fleshy fruits also contain small amounts of hydrogen cyanide but usually not enough to cause any ill effects. That being said, if any of the fruits do have a bitter taste to them then they should be avoided as this is indicative of larger concentrations of hydrogen cyanide being present.

So to conclude, Cherry Laurel fruits are not usually poisonous but sometimes they can be, and the leaves and stones always are.

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BANKSIA COCCINEA

Banksia coccinea

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Probably only seen in England as a cut flower, or even more rarely as a specimen under the protection of a large glass house in a botanical garden, Banksia coccinea is a gorgeous evergreen shrub or small tree with a dramatic, erect habit and spectacular flowers. Commonly known as the Scarlet Banksia, the genus name is in honour of British botanist Sir Joseph Banks (1743 – 1820), President of the Royal Society.

Banksia coccinea illustration

Native to the south west coast of Western Australia, its distribution ranges from from Denmark to the Stokes National Park, and then north to the Stirling Range.

Under favourable conditions you can expect Banksia coccinea to grow to approximately 8 metres in height, however outside of its native habitat 2–4 metres is more likely. It has an erect habit with little lateral spread. The trunk is generally single at the base before branching vertically further up, and is covered with a smooth grey bark. The leaves are roughly oblong in shape with toothed margins and are approximately 3–9 cm long and 2–7 cm wide.

However it is for its outstanding blooms which Banksia coccinea is best known and as such has become one of the most important Banksia species for the cut flower industry. The squat and roughly cylindrical, prominent red and white flower spikes appear mainly in the spring from the ends of one-year-old branchlets. The true flower is white and covered in grey or pale brown fur. The scarlet structures (can be dark red, orange or pink) are the styles (an elongated section of an ovary) which are 4–4.8 cm long and strongly recurved or looped until they are released at anthesis - the period during which a flower is fully open and functional.

In its native habitat Banksia coccinea will most likely be seen growing on white or grey sand in shrubland, heath or open woodland. So for successful cultivation it will require sandy, very well drained soils in Mediterranean climates where temperatures rarely fall below 0 degrees Celsius. Be aware that in regions with experience summer rainfall and humidity they can be prone to infection from fungal rots from which they can succumb to surprisingly quickly.

The most effective method of propagation of Banksia coccinea is by seed, which unlike many other species within the genus do not require any treatment before sowing. Germination will usually take 12 to 48 days but this can be longer depending on the age of the seed and growing conditions. You can expect these new plants to flower and fruit after approximately three years.

The coloured cultivars of Banksia coccinea can only be propagated by taking cuttings however they are notoriously slow to take and can often fail before rooting has taken place.

Main image credit - Cygnis insignis public domain
In text image credit - Ferdinand Bauer (1760–1826) public domain

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HOW TO GROW THE BLACK-EYED SUSAN VINE - Thunbergia alata

How to grow the Black-Eyed Susan vine - Thunbergia alata

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The black-eyed Susan vine - Thunbergia alata is a popular perennial annual self-twining climbing plant noted for its striking blooms. It is an easy to grow plant often grown as pot specimens or as a small climber.

Native to Eastern Africa is has proven to be surprisingly tough, and despite its subtropical to tropical origins it will often overwinter viable seed in the milder regions of northern Europe such as the south of England and Ireland. That being said self-sown seeds are unlike to come into blooms until August.

Flowers of the Black-Eyed Susan vine

Under favourable conditions you can expect the black-eyed Susan vine to reach a height of 1.8-2.4 m although in the United Kingdom 1-2 m is more likely. The mid-green leaves are heart or arrow-shaped.

The blooms, which can be up to 5 cm wide, have a flat orange-yellow corolla with a chocolate brown centre. They appear singularly from June to September from the leaf axils.

The Black-Eyed Susan will perform best in an ordinary, well-drained garden soil in a sunny sheltered position. Pot grown specimens can be grown in 15-20 cm pots containing a good quality compost such as John Innes 'No.2'. Provide suitable supports such as strings, wire or canes for he tendrils to climb up.

If you wish to grow them the following year then you can either over-winter the plants under frost-free protection at a temperature of 7-10 degrees Celsius or collect the seeds for sowing in March. Overwintered plants will need to be kept on just the right side of moist. They can be hardened off to outside conditions over 10-14 days once the threat of late frosts have passed.

There are a number of colour variations available including red, orange, white and yellow. Depending on the selection they can also be with or without the characteristic dark centre.

They are surprisingly hardy and while the parent plants won't survive, their seeds have been known to remain viable through the winter in the milder regions of southern England and Ireland. That being said when left to their own devices the soil temperature will not be warm enough for germination until June onwards and therefore flowering will not occur until the end of August.

Main image and in text image credit - Simon Eade gardenofeaden@gmail.com

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WHEN AND HOW TO PRUNE BACK BOTTLEBRUSH PLANTS

How to prune back bottlebrush plants

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Bottlebrush plants - Callistemon species and varieties, are among the most exotic of all hardy garden specimens. However their unusual growth habit means that most gardeners are reluctant to cut into the wood in case their shape and following season's blooms are affected.

To be fair, bottlebrush plants are usually low maintenance and will require little or no regular pruning. That being said, some forms can easily grow too large for their allocated garden space and will need cutting back one way or the other. Like conifers, avoid cutting back into the inside branches where there are few leaves as you may not see any regrowth.

How to prune back bottlebrush plants

The best time to pruning is from mid to late spring, but if you miss this opportunity you can light prune at the end of the summer. Removing any weak, crossed, rubbing, diseased or dying stems back to the trunk, and remove any suckers from the base as soon as you see them. Rip them from the trunk rather than cut to reduce the incidence of regrowth. This will be the same action for specimens grown with a single trunk but only do this as the suckers emerge. Shoots longer than a few inches will need to be cut. The best results are from rubbing away emerging buds with your thumb.

To guarantee that next season's blooms will remain unaffected and to just generally maintain a shape, lightly prune immediately after flowering - usually just a couple of inches from the growth tips and removing the spent flower structures.

If you are trying to reduce the size of an overgrown specimen, cut back down to size in the spring making sure that this is done well before the new seasons bud form.

In drastic situations, it is not unknown for mature specimens to grow back from being cut down to the ground. However this should only be done as a last resort.

Image credits - Simon Eade gardenofeaden@gmail.com

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PERFECTLY TIMED DOLPHIN PHOTOGRAPH

Perfectly timed dolphin photograph

Although nothing to do with gardening, I couldn't help but post this image I took yesterday at Loro Park, Tenerife.

This gorgeous dolphin looks as though it is hanging out to dry on a washing line after a hard day's entertaining. However it is just a badly timed image that tells a story different to reality. What actually happened this. The dolphin was captured mid-flow during its successful jump over this line.

HOW TO GROW AUTUMN SOWINGS OF SWEET PEAS

How to grow autumn sowings of sweet peas

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Although autumn is considered to be the natural time for planting most hardy seeds, it’s the spring that captures the gardener’s imagination when it comes to sowing treasured ornamental and edible plants. However, this can restrict and reduce the available growing period for many plants and this is no truer than when it comes to producing that highly scented and glorious perennial favourite – the sweet pea.

Sweet pea seeds 

Although there is nothing stopping you from planting up sweet pea seeds in the spring, planting them in the autumn - late September to early November for the south of England, or even in the winter for milder areas - will give you notably stronger and earlier flowering plants.

On the whole sweet peas are very easy to germinate and grow, but some types – particularly the older ‘Heirloom’ varieties - may have a natural dormancy period. This can be broken easily by gently nicking or rubbing the seed coat with sandpaper, or soaking it in water for 24 hours to help bring forward germination. Once they have been prepared in this way pot them up into a good potting compost such as John Innes ‘Seed’ with either 1 seed per 3 inch pot or 6-8 seeds in a 6 inch pot. Place the pots in a cold frame or greenhouse and cover them with newspaper, glass or clear plastic until the seedlings have germinated. At this point remove all covers or risk fungal infections damaging your crop.

Sweet pea seedlings - image credit http://www.gardenposts.co.uk/

If you have potted your sweet pea seeds later on in the year such as November or December then your seeds may need a just little extra heat to germinate. Remember that you are aiming for strong compact plants so they will still need to be grown 'hard’. Transfer your newly sown pots to an unheated cold frame or greenhouse, but don't over care for them. Aim to keep cool temperatures and good air circulation by keeping all doors and windows open. Only close them when bad weather is forecast. Do not forget to keep your plants moist if the weather is dry, and take precautions against damage from slugs, snails, mice and birds.

Sweet peas do have a tendency to grow rather spindly so once they've reached about 6 inches or so it’s best to remove the growing tip - only the top couple of leaves are necessary – as this will promote the production of lateral growth further down. The extra shoots that are produced from will result in far more flowers later on in the year.

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Sweet pea canes - image credit http://www.growsonyou.com/

Come March or April – so long as there are favourable weather conditions – your seedlings can now come out of their pots and be planted directly into their final positions in the ground– preferably into an open, sunny position. However, if the ground is still cold or very wet it is best to wait until conditions improve. Sweet Peas will benefit from adding a little well-rotted manure or organic compost into the soil. It is worth applying these composts at the same time as you pot up your peas so that it has a couple of months to condition and improve the soil.

If you planting your seedling in a row or against a fence set them down 8-12 inches apart. Although sweet peas produce self-clinging tendrils they will still require some support to get them on their way so provide them something suitable such as trellis, individual canes or wire to grow up.

Sweet peas in flower

Alternatively, if you want to create a centrepiece, give them something to scramble such as a pea net, string or raffia secured to a wigwam of canes with some for the tendrils to catch on to.

Given a warm spring and you can expect your young sweet pea plants to start flowering anytime from May onwards.

Make sure that you keep an eye on removing spent blooms otherwise your sweet pea plants will stop producing any more flowers if the plant is able to set seed.

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Water over the summer period if the weather is dry but try to do this early on in the day to minimise bud drop and prevent scorching.

You can also feed you plants at this time with a weekly application of water soluble fertilizer, preferably high in potash to help promote flowering.

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T and M: Sweet Peas: Autumn Sown.

HOW TO GROW AN ORANGE TREE FROM SEED

How to grow an orange tree from seed

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Growing orange trees from seed is surprisingly straight forward, and something that anyone can do if they have a warm, sunny windowsill. Getting the seed is probably the hardest part of the whole operation. You can either buy on-line through a specialist supplier or, if you only want a few, collect your own from shop bought fruit.

How to grow an orange tree from seed

Once you have cut open the fruit and exposed the seed, remove the seed and wash off any fruit residue. You should always clean seed collected from within fruiting bodies as they will normally contain chemicals which actively prevent seed germination.

Place the ‘clean’ seed into a glass of water and discard any that immediately float to the surface as these will not be viable. Smaller seeds may rise to the surface as air bubbles form on the surface of the seed coat.

If you have a variety of seed sizes you may also wish to discard any that look undersized as these are unlikely to have a large enough store of energy required for successful germination. Once you have selected your seed it can be dried off and stored in an envelope until required.

How to grow an orange tree from seed

 Soak the seeds for a couple of hours or so before planting them into 2-3 inch pots. Only sow one seed per pot using a good quality, free draining soil based compost such as John Innes seed or No 1, then water in.

If you can, place the pots into a heated propagator at a temperature of 16 degrees Celsius, otherwise transfer them to a warm, bright position such as a kitchen windowsill. Water periodically so that the compost doesn't dry out, but make sure that the compost is never left waterlogged either.

Germination should occur any time from 4 – 6 weeks. However there is no need for concern if it takes longer as orange seeds have been known to take several months before they germinate.

The newly emerged seedlings can be left in their pots for a further 3 – 6 months depending on how they develop but once they get to about 4 or 5 inches they can be potted on to the next size pot using a John Innes ericaceous mix or No 2 potting compost. So long as there are no frosts predicted the young orange plants can be put outside to harden off over the next two to three weeks.

How to grow an orange tree from seed

During the growing period they can be regularly watered and feed with a water soluble fertilizer once a week. You can often get yellowing of the leaves with orange plants due to chlorosis but this can be dealt with by feeding an acidic plant food.

Tip out the seedling depending on whether you are growing your orange plant as a bush, wall shrub or standard, or you can leave it alone - allowing it to take on its natural shape.

Unfortunately oranges are not particularly cold hardy although they will tolerate temperatures as low as 4 or 5 degrees Celsius for short periods without to much trouble.

For northern European countries it is best to keep all oranges under protection during the winter periods, but once the threat of frosts are over they can then be hardened off for a couple of weeks before spending the rest of the growing season outside in the full sun.

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COLD HARDY EXOTIC PLANTS FOR THAT TROPICAL GARDEN EFFECT

Cold hardy exotic plants for that tropical garden effect

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With cheap flights bringing increasingly distant, and foreign destinations within our grasp many of us are returning home with a hankering for that romantic, exotic look to be replicated in the garden. But this is no mean feat, especially for those of us who live in seasonal, northern European climates where winter temperatures can easily drop down to at least -5 degrees Celsius, and the sun may not even appear for weeks at a time. Are there such things as cold hardy tropical plants?

Strangely there are, but not many, and they are found in a few mountainous micro-climates around the 'tropical' world where exotic plants have moved into - acclimatising is such a way that they have at least a fighting chance of surviving in our cooler environments.

The high grounds of Australia, South Africa, China and the Himalayas all have plants to offer but there are certain cheats that you can employ to further your tropical look.

WHERE TO START?

Cold hardy exotic plants for that tropical garden effect

Let's start with the big stuff first - trees, palms and bamboos. Cordyline australis (a false palm) is an easy choice, they can give good height and come in a variety of foliage colours. Also hardy and far more exotic are the true palms, the hardiest of which are the Trachycarpus, chamaerops and Phoenix canariensis - once established. In milder climates you can also have excellent success with Yucca elephantipes - usually sold as a humble houseplant but they would need to be planted early summer so that they have time to 'toughen up' for the winter. All of these plants will need to be grown in a free draining soil and the Phoenix and Yucca will need some protection over the first few winters.

Eucalyptus are another good choice although a little left field but they would need to be cutback early on to create a multi stemmed specimen early on - essential for the smaller garden. It is their open habit and bark effects that create that tropical look - the best varieties are E. niphophila, E. coccifera, E. glaucescens, E. perriniana, E. saxatilis E. subcrenulata, and E. urnigera.

Cold hardy exotic plants for that tropical garden effect

There are also bamboos, stick with the larger growing Phyllostachys species of which the best variety for a small garden is the black bamboo - P. nigra as it densely clumping. Once your bamboo starts to produce its large, impressive stems keep them trimmed up to expose the wood for best effect.

Bananas, can you really have a tropical garden without at least one banana tree? The hardiest is the Japanese Musa Basjoo closely followed by the unfortunately named Himalayan species - Musa sikkimensis. Also consider Ensete ventricosum but anything else is unlikely to cope. Remember that all bananas will need winter protection.

Tree ferns, again fantastic plants with a true tropical look. Very tough and suitable for sun or shade so long as they get enough water. The crowns will need protection if severe cold weather is expected.

Cold hardy exotic plants for that tropical garden effect

Dahlia Imperialis or 'Tree Dahlia' as it is commonly known is one plant that seems to defy which category it can be put in and so because of its sheer size I have included it in with the trees. The Tree Dahlia is not really a tree of course, but a tuberous perennial, like other dahlias. This species will flower late in the year, around November and December, so the flowers may get hit by early frosts in some areas. In winter, you can cut the plant back to the ground and new growth will shoot up in the spring but give the root area a good protective mulch to help your plant over-winter. The tree Dahlia bears attractive stems which can grow up to 4" thick and are hollow like bamboo canes. Legend has it that the stems were used by the ancient Aztecs as pipes to carry drinking water!

FLOWERING PLANTS

If you look at tropical gardens from Indonesian islands there will be a common theme of red flowering plants on a green foliage backdrop. The look comes from a range of architectural leaves and flowers at all heights of the garden. This is because many of their plants are bird pollinated - hummingbirds - and red pigments are very attractive to them. Try to keep the predominantly red theme going, but intersperse with yellow and golds and just a touch of other colours. Whatever you do try to, keep to the mainly red flowered theme. As a little cheat, secure pots of red trailing begonias in the branches of your trees - hiding the pots with moss. This will give the effect of tropical epiphytes, but don't forget to water them.
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Cold hardy exotic plants for that tropical garden effect

Canna lilies – These highly attractive plants are fantastic for bringing a touch of the tropic to the garden. Exotic flowers are borne from July and can last up until November or at least until the first frosts arrive. Popular cultivars include the impressive ‘Lucifer and Tropicanna’.

Cautleya spicata - Otherwise known as the hardy shade ginger, Cautleya spicata is perhaps the most genuine of all the available plants to give you that true tropical display. They will provide you with a spike of brilliant yellow flowers subtended by bright red bracts borne from slender stems which grow up to about three feet tall . The flowers emerge successively over a month or more with each spike lasting three to five days however the red bracts remain for the entire bloom period. An absolute must for the northern tropical effect garden. Mulch in winter for a little extra protection.

Cold hardy exotic plants for that tropical garden effect

Colchicums – Commonly known as the Autumn Crocus or Naked Ladies – because they come into flower without leaves – colchicums can give a fantastic display from September to October. Although colchicums look like crocuses, they are actually members of the lily family. The most popular is C. 'Waterlily', and is perhaps the most common of all colchicums whose double pink blooms wouldn't look out of place floating on a pond. Raised almost a hundred years ago in a Dutch nursery, this variety is free-flowering and extremely easy to grow – often already flowering in the bag when purchased. There are a number of forms available but keep an eye out for C. agrippinum as it is one of the most distinctive. If you take closer look at its flower you will find that overlaying its pale pink petals is a deeper checkering, like the pattern found on snake's head fritillaries.

Crocosmia species - Yet another exotic looking group of late flowering plants from South Africa. There are a number of very popular colour variations within this family notably 'Lucifer' and 'Emily McKenzie'. They will survive all but the most severe winters so long as they are planted in a well-drained soil and are also excellent as cut flowers.

Cold hardy exotic plants for that tropical garden effect

Eucomis - Even though Eucomis species are a relative newcomer to the English garden, their tropical looks and excellent winter hardiness have already made them a sure-fire hit. Originating from the ‘summer rainfall’ regions of South Africa, the native habitat of this plant is surprisingly varied. Comprising of a mixture of grassland, woodland and even the odd mountainside, what more proof do you need of this plant's ability to adapt to the garden environment.

Hedychium - This lush, glossy green tropical plant is an excellent addition to any jungle-style garden. Commonly known as the 'Ginger lily' or 'Kahili ginger' it carries large, wide sheath-like leaves and displays huge 1ft long flowers in bright shades of orange and yellow from July until August. Despite their tropical appearance, ginger lilies are surprisingly hardy and can tolerate temperatures as low as -5 degrees Celsius without any lasting damage. If a hard frost is forecast, protect the base of the plant in horticultural fleece although sheltered areas. May require no protection at all!

Hemerocallis – sneaking in just at the end of summer, Day Lilies give a fantastic show in a range of stunning colours.

Cold hardy exotic plants for that tropical garden effect

Impatiens tinctoria -This erect tuberous perennial is a native of the high elevations of central Africa. It will display racemes of large 2.5" white orchid-like, long spurred flowers with maroon-red spotted throats which are born freely from summer carrying on until autumn. It also has one of the best scents in the garden reminiscent of a Plumeria or Gardenia.

Kniphofia cultivars - looking for all the world like exotic flowering Aloe sp, never underestimate the impact that can be achieved by the humble Red Hot Poker. Often left to their own devices, Kniphofia look sickly and weak flowering. Why? Because they are seen as capable, drought resistant plants and as such are not given the care they require. Give them the water and nutrition that they deserve and they will produce strong, luxurious foliage and flowers their hearts out throughout the summer.

Schizostylis coccinea 'Major' – These eye-catching kaffir lilies provide a well needed late splash of colour when many of the summer flowers are coming to an end. Best planted in full sun, they are also perfect for a sheltered, moist but well-drained border. They also make excellent cut flowers.

FOLIAGE PLANTS

Cold hardy exotic plants for that tropical garden effect

Luscious green foliage is what is needed here and there are plenty to choose from. Hostas are ideal but they can be a paradise for slugs. Fatsia japonica can make a good specimen plant but Gunneras have the largest leaves of any plant that will grow in northern Europe but make sure that you have the space to accommodate them. Phormiums are a good choice and also come in a wide range of foliage colours. Also look as ornamental grasses such as Miscanthus, and Cortaderia.Use smaller Carex varieties for the front of borders.

Ferns are another good choice for architectural foliage effect with a wide range available consider using Dryopteris, Polystichum and Asplenium species for an all year round evergreen effect. Of course, don't ignore the magnificent tree fern.

TENDER PLANTS

Of course there is no harm in using genuine tropical plants to create your tropical look. There are plenty of half-hardy specimens available at you local plant retailer, but all of them will need to be brought in under protection to keep them for the following years. Popular plants available include Datura, Strelitzia - bird of paradise and bougainvillea, but if you are prepared to bring them in then you can use pretty much anything that you fancy - you will just need to harden them off first before settling them into their garden position.

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TETRAPANAX Papyrifer Rex
STRELITZIA
Strelitzia Mandela's Gold
STRELITZIA 'MANDELA'S GOLD' 3 SEEDS
THE DARJEELING BANANA - Musa sikkimensis
THE HARDY ALOE - Aloe striatula
HOW TO CHOOSE PLANTS FOR HOT, DRY BORDERS
MISCANTHUS SINENSIS 'COSMOPOLITAN'
WHAT IS ELEPHANT GRASS?
WHAT IS A YUCCA?
YUCCA FLACCIDA
YUCCA WHIPPLEI

ORGANIC CONTROL OF APHIDS ON LETTUCE

Organic control of aphids on lettuce

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Controlling aphids on lettuce crops can be a real problem as they tend to end up hidden deep within the heart of the plant. They can also be well camouflaged coming in several colour forms ranging from green to orange and even pink in colour. Aphids are a well-known pest insect that can quickly colonise the soft tissue parts of your plants. They damage and weaken the plant by sucking the sap out of pressurised parenchyma cells just below the leaf cuticle especially on the soft, young growth.

Organic control of aphids on lettuce

Symptoms: Lettuce aphid likes to feed deep inside the plants, preferably toward the centre on the new leaves. In head lettuce types such the crisphead and butterhead varieties, aphids are found almost exclusively at the heart of the plant.

On the looser leaved varieties, such as Cos and Butterhead, just tease out some of the younger, central leaves. Clusters of these small insects are readily recognised and in severe cases, the infected leaves can begin to wither due to the quantity of sap being removed from that area. The foliage can become sticky due to honeydew and may show signs of a harmless black mould called sooty mildew.

Treatment: As an edible crop you should avoid using chemical controls however there are a number or organic solutions that can be very effective. If you are prone to aphid attack then you can pre-empt an infestation by growing under plastic cloches. For early infections you can try blasting the pests off with a hose but this can end up as a weekly task if you are using no other control methods. Keep down weeds in the local areas as these can be breeding grounds for more aphid attacks, and if you want to use a spray to knock them out then make sure that it is organic.

Consider plants that will attract the predators of aphids (see links below) such as a combination of basil and asparagus to attract ladybirds, or provide companion plants that help to deter aphids away from your lettuce crop. Chives, dill, fennel and peppermint have all had some proven success in repelling aphids. Alternatively or even in conjunction with companion plants you can consider making your own organic insecticide sprays.

Two of the most popular homemade aphid sprays are tomato leaf and garlic oil. Tomato leaf spray is made by chopping up one or two cups of tomato leaves and soaking the overnight in 500 ml or 1 pint of water. Let it steep overnight. Strain out the leaves using a cheese-cloth or a fine strainer. Add the subsequent tomato leaf liquid to another 500 ml or 1 pint of fresh water and then pour it into a spray bottle. Be aware that some people can show sensitivity to this liquid so take precautions when preparing and applying.

To make garlic oil spray mince or finely chop three to four cloves of garlic, and then add them to two teaspoons of mineral oil, also known as paraffin oil which can be easily purchased online. Allow the mixture to rest for 24 hours before straining out the garlic pieces. Add the resulting liquid to one pint of water, then add one teaspoon of washing up liquid soap.  Test the spray it first on an inconspicuous part of the plant and if after a couple of days there is no sign of yellowing or leaf damage then continue using the spray. If damage does occur then dilute the spray further with water and test spray once more.

For related articles click onto the following links:
HOW TO COLLECT AND PREPARE LETTUCE SEEDS FOR PROPAGATION
HOW TO CONTROL CODLING MOTH ON APPLES
HOW TO CONTROL FLEA BEETLES ON LETTUCE
HOW TO MAKE A NATURAL AND ORGANIC INSECTICIDE SPRAY FOR APHIDS
ORGANIC CONTROL OF CATERPILLARS
MAKE YOUR OWN ORGANIC PYRETHRUM INSECTICIDE
Sacrificial Planting
THE IMPORTANCE OF LOG PILES TO NATIVE WILDLIFE
UC Pest Management Guidelines: Lettuce Aphid
WHAT ARE THE NATURAL PREDATORS OF PLANT LICE?
WHICH PLANTS ATTRACT APHID PREDATORS TO THE GARDEN

ORGANIC CONTROL OF VINE WEEVILS

Organic control of vine weevils

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As garden pests go, the hatred that gardeners have for vine weevils is right up there along with slugs and aphids. But it’s not just the amount damage they cause that is the problem, it is the sneaky way they go about it. The adult vine weevil, in between making a significant number of unsightly, irregular notches in the sides of your plants leaves, will lay their eggs in the soil at the base of their preferred plants so that the larvae can munch their way through the root system completely unnoticed until your plant topples over in a unrecoverable heap.

Unfortunately, not only is this often the first symptom you'll come across, it is usually far too late to do anything about it.

Although there are a number of effective chemical treatments available, they are all non-specific, able to kill off beneficial pollinating insects such as lacewings, bumble and honey bees just as easily as the vine weevil.

BIOLOGICAL CONTROL

Adult vine weevil

This can be a very effective method of control on infected pot grown stock where both the roots and the larvae are localized. Parasitic nematodes, which occur in minute numbers naturally in the soil, are watered into the growing medium in very large numbers.

Surprisingly it is not the nematodes that kills the larvae directly but a particular strain of bacteria that they carry which will infect the vine weevil larvae, killing it. The nematodes then invade the body to feed on the contents and breed. The bacteria are very host specific and have no effect on mammals, reptiles, or earthworms.

HAND PICKING

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For the extremely environmentally conscious gardener, you can actually go out and collect vine weevil adults yourselves although this will have to be done after dark when the adult vine weevils are active. Wait a couple of hours after sunset then, taking a torch, you should be able to see the vine weevils feeding off the leaves. Simply knock them off into a container and either kill them or – for the squeamish - release them far away from your prized plants.

Adult vine weevils hide in debris around the bases of your plants so try to keep the area immediately under them free of dead, fallen leaves and reducing the number of places that they can hide.

PHYSICAL BARRIERS

Organic control of vine weevils

As the adult vine weevil will lay its eggs in the soil at the base of its preferred plants you can consider using physical barriers such as heavy duty landscape fabric to prevent the newly hatched larvae from entering the soil. This is a simple yet effective method that will deter the adults from laying eggs preventing further insect damage. You can also try sprinkling a layer of grit thickly around the plants that are already affected but you will need to act as quickly as possible for best results.

ENCOURAGING NATURAL PREDATORS

This is the best ‘Lazy Gardeners’ option as all of the hard work if done by the surrounding wildlife. We are lucky in this country as there are a number of native predators that will make short work of both adult and larval vine weevils; it is just a matter of encouraging them into your garden. The easiest way is to provide a wildlife pond and or log piles. This will attract a number of very useful mammals, amphibians and predatory insects into the garden which will feed on vine weevils, but it doesn't stop there as they will also devour other garden pests such as slugs and snails.

Below is a list of the most commonly found native animals which among other garden pests will also eat vine weevils.

The common frog

The common shrew

The common toad

Hedgehogs and ground beetles

Unfortunately there are no natural predators that will eat the larvae - birds included - as they are too deep in the soil to reach.

For related articles click onto the following links:
ORGANIC CONTROL OF CATERPILLARS
HOW CAN YOU GET RID OF THE RED LILY BEETLE?
HOW TO KILL THE RED LILY BEETLE
How to Recognize Vine Weevil Damage on Plants
MAKE YOUR OWN ORGANIC PYRETHRUM INSECTICIDE
RHS: Vine Weevil

THE IMPORTANCE OF LOG PILES TO NATIVE WILDLIFE
THE LEAF INSECTS
WHAT IS CUCKOO SPIT?

WHAT CAUSES BLUE HYDRANGEAS TO TURN PINK?

What causes blue hydrangeas to turn pink?

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Out of all the hydrangeas available today perhaps the most popular with English gardeners are the macrophylla cultivars. Although they come in a variety of colours from rose-pink to white and even to a deep red, it is the almost cobalt-blue flowering forms that really capture the imagination.

What causes blue hydrangeas to turn pink?

Unfortunately there can be a catch with these glorious blue specimens because if you soil isn't right, the stunning blue colouration – the very reason why you bought this plant - can slowly fade away, eventually to be replaced by a rather ordinary pink.

This can be a common problem and it is all down to the acidity or to be more accurate - the alkalinity of the soil. If your soil is alkaline in nature then almost all the blue varieties will turn pink or even a reddish-purple colour. However it will also work the other way round because on acid - or even neutral soils - the pink forms can turn blue or purple.

The easiest way to prevent this colour change from happening to your blue hydrangeas is to plant them directly into an ericaceous compost mix and then - if you are watering them in a hard water area - feed with an acidic food such as Miracid or Sequestrene.

In alkaline soils, plants from the Ericaceae family – of which the hydrangea is not a member - have difficulties in taking up iron and magnesium from the soil through the roots. This is typified by characteristic interveinal yellowing - known as chlorosis - as both iron and manganese are vital for the formation of chlorophyll pigments within the leaves.

Iron chlorosis on hydrangea

This characteristic patterning shown by chlorosis is because the chlorophyll pigment found in the vascular bundles – the leaf veins – will remain unaffected for longer periods than chlorophyll pigment found in the cells between the vascular bundles. Also, because of the low mobility of iron within the plant and relatively higher concentrations within older leaves due to the formation of iron binding proteins, leaf discoloration is far more prevalent in the new, juvenile leaves found near to the growing points.

This will also be experienced in hydrangeas growing in alkaline soil and in extreme cases newly formed leaves can grow through almost pure white in colour.

Although the modern gardener has various products with which they can help acidify the soil around the root ball to relieve this problem is was a different matter going back a century or so to the Victorian gardener. During the latter end of the 19th Century it was common practice for Victorian gardeners to plant their hydrangeas with a healthy mix of rusty nails or old horse shoes. Both of which were made from iron an essential ingredient for the soils nutritional balance. Later, dissolving a spoonful of Epsom salts in a watering can and pouring it around the root-ball became a popular method. So rather than fix the acidity problem, they instead over loaded the soil with the nutrients that the plants were struggling with.

Today, pink (but originally blue) hydrangeas can be treated by spraying the leaves with soluble iron foliar feeds every 2 - 4 weeks or by lowering the soil pH. This is achieved by applying chelates, ferrous sulphate, aluminium sulphate, or sulphur to the soil surface and allowing them to dissolve into the soil by watering and rainfall. At the very least, use soluble, acidic plant fertilisers such as Miracid or Sequestrene as a weekly liquid feed. Be aware though that it will take weeks and not days for the effects to show through.

For related articles click onto the following links:
CHANGING THE COLOR OF HYDRANGEAS
HOW TO GROW HYDRANGEA
HOW TO PRUNE HYDRANGEA
HOW TO TAKE HYDRANGEA CUTTINGS
HYDRANGEA MACROPHYLLA
HYDRANGEA PETIOLARIS
HYDRANGEA QUERCIFOLIA
WHICH ARE THE BEST BLUE-FLOWERING HYDRANGEAS?
WHY HAS MY BLUE HYDRANGEA TURNED PINK?

HOW TO PROPAGATE AND GROW EUCOMIS FROM LEAF CUTTINGS

How to propagate and grow Eucomis from leaf cuttings

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Despite their tropical looks, Eucomis species and cultivars are easy to grow and the same can be said when it comes to propagating them.

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Although they can be raised from seed (although they are unlikely to grow true to the parent) or from genetically identical bulblets from the parent plant, perhaps the most practical method of propagation is going to be from leaf cuttings. Although this may seem complicated, it is in reality quite straightforward so long as you make sure that you know which end of the leaf should face up and which end should face down. The best time of the year to start taking leaf cuttings will be around the end of June to the beginning of July, when the plant is at its most metabolically active.

How to propagate and grow Eucomis from leaf cuttings

Before you begin, make sure that you choose a healthy, undamaged and newly-matured leaf that will be taken from a parent plant well-watered from the day before. Using a sharp and sterilised knife, cut through the base of your chosen leaf, making sure not to damage any of the remaining leaves. Lay the leaf down on a flat surface then, using the sterilized knife, cut the leaf into 2 -3 inch long sections. Always ensure that you keep the leaf sections facing in the same direction that they were on the plant. Alternatively, make the cuts into shallow chevrons to point the way for you.

Prepare a well-drained potting mix of 3 parts John Innes seed to 1 part perlite and then, depending on how many cuttings you are making, fill up some 5-6 inch diameter terracotta pots with the finished mix. Gently water the compost in, then place the leaf sections in an upright position- bottom face down – into the mix so that now only half of the leaf cutting is showing. With no more than 3-4 cuttings per pot, place them into a cool shady position where they can be left over the summer period. Alternatively, for a better take, place the cuttings into a propagator, or cover with a clear plastic bag. Try to keep the temperature at an average 20°Celsius, and be careful not to overwater. Remove the cover a few times each week - for a few hours each time - to reduce the risk of fungal rots. If you do come across any signs of mould or mildew then spray with a copper based fungicide and improve ventilation.

How to propagate and grow Eucomis from leaf cuttings

By the autumn, these leaf sections should have rooted, and on the base of each section should be small embryonic bulbs that are genetically identical to the parent plant. These can be removed from the leaf cutting and grown on as a single, separate plants into a 3 inch terracotta pots using a fresh compost mix, one again made from 3 parts John Innes seed to 1 part perlite. Make sure that you only plant one bulb per pot which can now be moved to a sunny position. Water well while the bulbs are in active growth, but reduce watering during the winter months. You may wish to move the young plants into a protected environment, such as frost-free greenhouse, for the first couple of winters.

You will find that the young bulblets are fast-growing and will require regular re-potting. They will also mature faster than many other bulb varieties, coming into flower any time in the following two to five years. Once they are of a flowering size they can be treated as mature bulbs.

For related articles click onto the following links:
EUCOMIS BICOLOR
HOW TO GROW EUCOMIS PLANTS FROM SEED
HOW TO PROPAGATE ABUTILON FROM CUTTINGS
How to Propagate Eucomis

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HOW TO PLANT AND GROW ARTICHOKES

How to plant and grow artichokes

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If you have never tasted the sublime delights of an artichokes heart then you are definitely missing out on a treat. Step back through the centuries and this once forbidden ‘fruit’ was only afforded by Kings and the wealthy aristocracy. Today it’s a different matter with hundreds of varieties to choose from including some of the old historical favourites. Easily grown by seed - or bought in the spring from any good plant retailer -artichokes are surprisingly straightforward to grow, but for best results they need to be grown and harvested quickly.

How to plant and grow artichokes

To begin with, positioning is all important so try to choose a rich, free-draining soil - preferably with a pH of around 6.5 to 7.0. However, the most important aspect with growing artichokes is to make sure that they receive as much sun throughout the day as possible, so you are looking at a South to South-west facing position.

Artichokes also have a high nutrient requirement and so - if you are able to - try to prepare your site a month or so before planting. Dig the soil deeply adding plenty of well-rotted manure, you may also wish to mix in some horticultural grit to improve the drainage. In fact you can even go as far as adding some general pelleted fertiliser – such as poultry manure or ‘Growmore’ – to the soil in order to help encourage further vigour.

Dig a hole bigger than plant so that the soil mark on the stem sits at the same level as the soil surface. Backfill the hole around the root-ball, adding some compost along with it to help with the initial root development. Gently firm the plant in and then thoroughly water. It's important to keep an eye on the watering at this crucial stage in their development, ensuring that they don't dry out over the summer. In hot weather it's wise to give your young artichoke plants a good, regular, moisture-retaining mulch. Remember that Artichokes will need plenty of available water in order to produce those big, succulent buds which – during hot dry spells - can be as much as three times a week while the buds are forming. Of course, water so much that the roots are left sodden for extended periods of time and you can expect them to rot off.

How to plant and grow artichokes

With their large, delicately cut, silvery foliage, artichokes also make great architectural statements in the ornamental garden, but be aware of the plants around them as - with an overall height of and width of up to 6 feet - they can easily shade out smaller, more delicate specimens. Also, maintaining these damp conditions while the plants are still young can make them an easy target for slugs and snails so make sure that some kind of slug deterrent is put in place.

Although a native of the regions around the Mediterranean, there are some varieties suitable for the colder climate, but if temperatures start to regularly dip below -4 degrees Celsius during the winter period, you can expect some root damage. To help avoid this, make sure they get a heavy mulching to act as cold protection, and consider some kind of protection to keep the cold and wet off the soil. In very cold climates the outer skin of the artichoke can blister, turning whitish in colour, although his will make them look unattractive it will not affect the eating quality.

During the plant's first year, they will need to direct all their energy into making foliar and root growth, so remove any flower-heads as they form. In the second year, the edible heads can be allowed to fully develop for harvesting later on in the summer. These edible buds will develop at the tips of 1-inch-thick stalks, while the terminal bud – the top-most bud on the centre stem - is normally the largest and the first to mature. Harvest the artichokes before the buds start to open - while they're still green and tight – carefully slicing through the stem with a sharp knife just below the bud. If a few buds escape your knife, they will open into spectacular, purple-blue, 6-inch thistle-like flowers. However, allowing the buds to flower may reduce the plant’s vigour for the following year’s crop.

Prepare and eat the artichoke as soon as possible or refrigerate to ensure their freshness.

For related articles click onto the following links:
BBC: ARTICHOKES
BUY ARTICHOKE SEED
HISTORY OF THE GLOBE ARTICHOKE
HOW TO GROW ARTICHOKES
HOW TO GROW ARTICHOKES FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW ARTICHOKES FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW THE CARDOON FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
HOW TO GROW MILK THISTLE - Silybum marianum
HOW TO PLANT AND GROW ARTICHOKES
HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM ARTICHOKES
RECIPE FOR GLOBE ARTICHOKE WITH DIJON MUSTARD
SCOTCH THISTLE - Onopordum acanthium
THE BLUE GLOBE THISTLE - Echinops ritro
WHAT IS AN ARTICHOKE?
WHICH PART OF AN ARTICHOKE DO YOU EAT?