HOW TO GROW THE WOLLEMI PINE

How to grow the Wollemi pine

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Previously only known from the fossil record, the Wollemi pine - Wollemia nobilis is now considered to be a 'living fossil' since its discovery in 1994. It was found in a remote series of narrow, steep-sided sandstone gorges, the Wollemi National Park in New South Wales, Australia, the species genus is named in honour of the park.

Wollemi National Park

According to IUCN Red List criteria the Wollemi pine is rated as Critically Endangered (CR) as there were only approximately 100 mature specimens found after their discovery. Of course is is illegal to collect specimens or even the seeds of Wollemia nobilis from the wild, but there are plenty of vegetatively propagated examples around which can be purchased for garden use.

Warm, humid, temperate rainforests are the native habitat of the Wollemi pine, but their limited distribution means that they have only been found in deep sandstone gorges. However they have proven to be more adaptable and cold-hardy than their restricted temperate-subtropical origins suggest. There is even strong evidence to suggest they they can withstand temperatures down to below -10°C!

In 2005, hardiness trials were undertaken at Kew Gardens, London. The results indicated that ideal conditions for growing the Wollemi pine would include shallow, acidic, free-draining soils on sandstone, with plenty of organic matter. In fact the trial specimens started off in the most acidic soil (pH 4.7) ended up producing the most growth! Note that you will need to provide low nutrient levels in order to prevent forced, misshaped growth.

Wollemi pine - Wollemia nobilis

As you would expect from its rainforest origins, the Wollemi pine should ideally receive plenty of water during the growing season and be grown in 50% shade, with protection from both strong winds and sun. Be aware that while young plants will tolerate full sun, they will initially exhibit some yellow colouring. This is perfectly normal and will gradually return to green within the year once acclimatised.

Be aware that like many other Australian trees, the Wollemia pine is susceptible to the pathogenic water mould Phytophthora cinnamomi, so avoid using possibly contaminated water. Chlorinated tap is preferable but allow hose pipes to run through and wash out watering cans before use. Phytophthora cinnamomi can only be controlled and not irradiated.

When under environmental stress (such as low light, drought, overwatering or poor drainage) they can also be susceptible to attack from Fusicoccum fungal species. This is recognised as brown patches with tiny black raised spots on the leaves usually seed during warm months with plenty of rainfall. Fusicoccum fungal species on Wollemi pines can be treated using alternate applications of broad spectrum fungicides including Dithane 945 - if you can find any!

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HOW TO GROW FUCHSIA 'TOM WEST'

Fuchsia 'Tom West'

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Fuchsia 'Tom West' is a popular hardy, evergreen subshrub (though deciduous in cooler, northern European climates), notable for both its ornamental foliage and colourful blooms. It is a sport selected by the French breeder Meilliez in 1853 from the species 'Corallina' (although proven to be more tender), and also makes for an excellent choice for planting in patio pots and and containers.

Fuchsia 'Tom West'

Under favourable conditions you can expect Fuchsia 'Tom West'to grow to a height and spread of between 0.2-0.5 metres. It has an upright habit with vigorous, lax growth. The leaves are variegated cream and green, with cerise veins and stems. The small, single flowers have red tubes and sepals with purple corollas, and purple flowers appear from June to September.

Fuchsia 'Tom West' will grow happily in sun or part shade, and in a sheltered position. Plant into a light, well-drained soil, and fertilize monthly with a liquid soluble fertilizer, from spring through to July.

When growing as a container plant, use a good quality, well drained compost such as John Innes No.3. Pinch out the growing tips of young specimens, to promote bushier growth and more flowers.

Prune back to ground level in the spring, for a strong flush of new growth.

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HOW TO GROW JAPANESE MAPLES FROM SEED

Mature Japanese Maple

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The Japanese Maples - Acer palmatum cultivars and hybrids are a large group of generally large shrubs or small trees with a low, rounded head. Native to Japan, Central China and Korea, many cultivated varieties have been raised from this species which exhibit a wide range of forms in both leaf-shape, colour and habit. They are notable for their gorgeous red, orange or yellow autumnal colours.

Acer seeds - http://www.asknature.org/

Japanese Maples are relatively easy to grow from seeds, but be aware that only seedlings from the typical Acer palmatum will grow true to the parents. Hybrids and cultivars are unlikely to produce progeny similar to the parents and if this is your aim then you would be better off using vegetative propagation techniques such as grafting. That being said there is of course a chance that you would produce the next outstanding cultivar.

The seeds will be readily available from Japanese Maples in the autumn. They are easily recognised as they are attached in sets of two with a wing extending from each seed. Maple seeds have a natural dormancy of approximately two years which will need to be broken (either naturally or otherwise) before germination can proceed. Sow them in 3 inch pots or a large modular seed tray containing well drained, sterilized topsoil or an ericaceous, soil-based seed compost.

Acer palmatum seedlings - Marco Ernst

Sow at a rate of one seed per pot or module and then cover with approximately 3/8 of an inch of soil. Gently water in and then allow the soil surface to dry out completely before watering again. Move them to an unheated, protected environment such as a cold frame and let nature take its course. Once the seedlings begin to emerge move to a sheltered, partially shaded position which avoid direct sunlight during the hottest part of the day. Pot them on as required and plant out into their final position so long as there is no longer a threat of late frosts.

Although the typical and stronger forms are known to tolerate chalk soils, the Japanese Maples perform at their best in moist, but well drained loam, sheltered from cold winds especially from the east.

Breaking dormancy

Germinating Japanses Maple seeds - http://bonsaibeginnings.blogspot.co.uk/

To break the dormancy of Japanese Maple seeds soak them in warm water for approximately 24 hours. You may need to use a thermos flask to maintain the temperature over this period. Drain off the water, then place the seeds in a clear polythene bag with a damp mixture (not waterlogged) of 50:50 horticultural grade sand and moss peat.

Make some small holes in the bag using a sharp pencil to allow air circulation and place inside in a refrigerator for approximately three months. After this period the seeds can be planted outside into a prepared nursery bed which will need to be shaded during the hottest part of the day. Once again, cover the seeds with approximately 3/8 of an inch of soil. Water thoroughly, but allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again.

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HOW TO PLANT LILY BULBS

How to plant Lily bulbs - http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/

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The genus Lilium is well known for providing gardeners with a wide range of highly ornamental, tall, flowering perennials. Furthermore, many of the species, as well as a huge number of selected cultivars, are suitable for growing in temperate and subtropical regions. Despite being found across much of the new and old world, lilies are specialist plants, and across the genus can be found growing in wide range of conditions. Unfortunately when buying lily bulbs there is often little, if any, cultural information available. That being said the majority of species and cultivars require fundamentally similar growing conditions which are covered below.

Lily bulbs

1. Lily bulbs are prone to drying out so if purchasing pre-packed bulb in the spring you will need to get them planted as soon as possible. Try to handle the bulbs as little as possible as they are easily damaged

2. Given favourable conditions, almost all lily bulbs can be planted in the garden, or in deep, suitably sized pots and containers. When planting in pots use a 50:50 mix of ericaceous compost and John Innes 'No 3', but provide a 5cm (2in) basal layer of drainage material, such as crocks top by small stones or grit. Some lily species such as L. auratum and L. speciosum are known to be lime-haters. These will be best planted into ericaceous compost only. If available choose a soil-based blend such as John Innes 'Ericaceous Compost'.

Pot grown lilies - https://www.gardenia.net/

3. Lilies require a free-draining soil and so if you only have heavy or clay soils where you intend to plant consider growing them as container plants. Otherwise improved drainage by digging in plenty of organic matter such as moss peat, leaf mold, and mushroom or garden compost. Avoid any soils that are prone to waterlogging. Lilies are heavy feeders, so it is recommended to add granules of controlled-release fertiliser prior to planting.

4. Lilies tend to perform best when planted in a south-facing position (northern hemisphere), with a slightly sloping aspect, in sun or part shade. Plant the bulbs a minimum of 4 inches deep to help provide basal support, and larger bulbs at a depth of approximately 2½-3 times the height of the bulb, except for Lilium candidum which should be planted at the surface. All lily bulbs should be planted with their basal plate facing downwards, and the pointed tip of the bulb scales pointing upwards.

Lilium illustration

5. Species such as L. formosanum, L. lancifolium and L. longiflorum, produce roots not just from the base of the bulb but also from the stem just above the bulb and so not only these can be planted deeper, they will also require a deeper container. Amazingly, lilies have contractile roots which pull the plant down to the correct depth, therefore it can sometimes be better to plant them too shallowly than too deep.

6. When planting in the garden, create groups of three to five using roughly the same sized bulbs. Space these groups 8-10 inches apart in mass plantings. In containers, plant the bulbs near the edge for additional support at a rate of approximately 3 bulbs to a 10 inch pot. Specimens with heavy flower heads are likely to need staking.

7. For pot grown specimens, ensure the compost is moist at all times, but not waterlogged. Feed with a high potassium liquid fertiliser every couple of weeks during the growing season.

8. Take care when watering to avoid getting the blooms wet. If lily flowers become too wet and do not dry out before the cooler temperatures of nightfall set in, fungal infections may have an opportunity to take hold.

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HOW TO GROW LAVENDER

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Lavender are one of the most popular of all hardy, evergreen flowering shrubs and as such have multiple selected cultivars. So well do they perform under garden conditions that many of them have received Award of Merit (AM) and Award of Garden Merit (AGM) accolades from the Royal Horticultural Society.

Image credit - http://cdn.images.express.co.uk/

Native to the Mediterranean region, West Asia, India and Northeast Africa, it is a favorite for dwarf hedges, associating well with stonework or rose beds and as a component of blue or grey borders. They have fragrant, ornamental foliage, long lasting blooms and will happily tolerate poor soils and neglect. However poor cultivation can result in woody and untidy specimens, and if planted in an unfavorable position individual plants can fail.

Lavenders are generally best planted between April and May in any well-drained garden soil. However avoid heavy or clay soils and particularly those prone to waterlogging. If suitable soils are all that are available add organic matter and gravel to improve the drainage and plant on a mound. Do not disturb the root system when planting. To maintain compact habit, and strong flowering all lavenders must be planted in a position that receives full sun for as much of the day as possible. In cooler, temperate regions be aware that lavenders can easily become damaged are cold, wet conditions.

When planting lavender as hedging pants provide a distance of between 9-12 inches apart. In formal, cloud-like hedges can be planted 2-3 ft apart. In poor draining soils, plant on a ridge to keep the base of the plants out of wet soil.

Pruning

Lavenders will need to be pruned every year to keep them compact. Remove spent flower stems in late summer. Maintain compact growth by trim back the foliage from August to September. Straggly specimens can be pruned back hard in late March or April before the new growth starts. This will encourage bushy growth and new shoots from the base.

Established lavender hedges can be clipped to shape from March to April also.

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HOW TO GROW YUCCA PLANTS

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The genus Yucca comprises of approximately 40-50 species of hardy and tender evergreen shrubs and small trees. Native to the arid regions of the Americas and the Caribbean, they are long-lived and thrive in seaside gardens, flowering at their best during hot dry summers. They have a clear architectural habit, with narrow, usually rigid, strap-like leaves. The blooms emerge on tall racemes or panicles. The drooping flowers are bell-shaped, lily-like and help to create a subtropical effect in temperate gardens.

Of all the species so far recorded only a handful are hardy enough to grow outside in countries which experience freezing temperatures, namely:

Yucca filamentosa
Yucca flaccida 
Yucca gloriosa
Yucca recurvifolia

The hardy species can be planted outside in April or October in any ordinary, well drained garden soil and preferably in a sheltered position that receives sunlight throughout most of the day. They will fare even in poor, sandy soils. Be aware that they can be killed by excessive watering during their summer dormant phase.

Yucca species that are not frost hardy can only be grown outside in warm-temperate, Mediterranean climates or warmer. As a rule they will tolerate a range of conditions, so long as they are grown in full sun, and in a well-drained soil.

Tender species can be grown in 6 - 10 inch pots using a good quality compost such as John Innes 'No 2 or 3'. Potting on to larger pots is usually done in spring or early summer. Maintain a minimum overnight temperature of 13-16 degrees Celsius. They can be placed outside in a sunny position once the risk of late frosts have passed. However they will need to be hardened off first and protected from scorching during the hottest times of the year.

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HOW TO GROW RHUBARB FROM SEED

Image credit - http://empoweredsustenance.com/

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In medieval Europe, rhubarb was a rare luxury. In fact, being several times the price of other valuable herbs and spices such as cinnamon, opium, and saffron, only the very rich could afford to indulge in its unique, tart flavour.

Image credit - http://s3.amazonaws.com/plantvillage/

Today things have changed and the rhubarb has fallen out of favour. To make matters worse, shop bought rhubarb stalks are generally undersized, poorly flavoured and limp-looking. Of course this is not the rhubarb plants fault, because (as anyone who has eaten freshly grown and cooked rhubarb would know) rhubarb is genuinely a king amongst temperate fruit. I do realise that rhubarb is not a botanical fruit.

While rhubarb is usually sold as pot-grown stock in the spring, there is nothing stopping you from growing your own plants from seed. Of course the various rhubarb cultivars will not grow true to the parent plants, but there are a small number of specialist varieties which will. The most popular being Rhubarb 'Glaskins Perpetual'.

Prepare the soil in advance over the autumn or winter by digging in plenty of well-rotted manure or garden compost. Remove all weeds, especially perennial weeds.

Using a large modular seed tray, or 3 inch pots, fill with a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'. Sow rhubarb seeds individually at a rate of one seed per pot, or module, at a depth of ¼ inch anytime from March to April. Gently water in the place the tray or pots inside a heated a propagator at a temperature of between 20-25 degrees Celsius. Alternatively seal inside a clear polythene bag and leave on a warm bright windowsill. Germination will usually take between 21- 40 days. Keep the soil damp but avoid waterlogging.

Image credit - https://thehandygardener.files.wordpress.com/

Once the seedlings have emerged, remove them from the propagator or bag. Leave them where they are a week or so before moving them outside to a cold frame. Once the root systems have established they can be hardened off before planting out in late spring. If late frosts are forecasted, wait until these have passed before planting. Transplant rhubarb carefully, disturb the roots as little as possible, allowing 3ft between each plant.

Allow to grow for its first full year without harvesting so as to to allow the plant to properly established. Come the following spring, remove the emerging flower heads as they appear as these will divert energy away from producing further leaves

Harvest from the second year onwards removing stems from April to June.

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WHAT IS A GROUND SLOTH?

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Ground sloths are a diverse group of extinct large bodied mammals, in the mammalian superorder Xenarthra.

Their most recent survivors lived in the Antilles, where it is believed they may have survived as recently as 1550 BC.

However ground sloths have been extinct on the mainland of North and South America for 10,000 years or more.

The term 'ground sloth' is used as a reference for all extinct sloths because of the large size of the earliest forms discovered, as opposed to the still surviving 'tree sloths'. In reality this is a historical convention and does not imply that all extinct sloths were strictly terrestrial in nature.

Why did ground sloths die out

Researchers at the University of Florida reported in 2005 that the Ground Sloth may have died out as a result of human predation, rather than climate change.

Researcher David Steadman reported in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences (PNAS) that evidence of the existence several species of giant sloth has been found in the West Indian islands of Cuba and Hispaniola as recently as 4,400 years ago, about the time of the first human occupation of the area.

Nineteen different species of sloths once roamed the Americas, but they were previously thought to have died out approximately 11,000 years ago. David Steadman argues that the coincidence of timing is strong circumstantial evidence that while climate change may have decimated the population, human predation assisted the extinction of ground sloth in the Americas.

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HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM FICUS ELASTICA

How to take cuttings from Ficus elastica

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Commonly known as the rubber plant - Ficus elastica is a popular house and garden plant native to northeast India, Nepal, Bhutan, Myanmar, China, Malaysia, and Indonesia. It is propagated vegetatively either through taking cuttings or air layering

How to propagate Ficus elastica by taking cuttings

In order to propagate Ficus elastica by cuttings, take 4-6 inch lateral shoots from April to June. Insert into equal parts (by volume) moss peat and sand. Failing that, use a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'.

Water in gently, then place into heated propagator - or similar warm environment, at a temperature of 21-24 degrees Celsius.

When rooted, remove from the propagator and pot the cuttings singly into 3 inch pots using a standard potting compost.

Keep in a bright, warm environment and water and pot on as necessary.

How to propagate Ficus elastica by air layering

Image credit - http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/

The air layering method requires the propagator to cut a slit in the plant's stem using a sharp sterilized blade.

The wound, which oozes with the plant's latex, is packed with rooting hormone and then wrapped tightly with moist sphagnum moss.

Dampen the moss with water using a spray bottle then wrap the structure in plastic securing it to the stem at both ends.

At this point there is little left to do other than allow nature to takes its course for a few months. The new roots will develop from the plant's auxiliary buds.

Once the root system has established the plastic can be removed. The stem is severed below the original slit, again using a sharp, sterilized blade, and the new plant is potted on its own.

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ARUM LILY 20 SEEDS - 'Seeds of Eaden' seed shop

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The arum lily - Zantedeschia aethiopica, is arguably among the most beautiful and exotic of all hardy, ornamental flowering plants and now you can purchase their seeds at the 'Seeds of Eaden' seed shop. Native to southern Africa it is a rhizomatous herbaceous perennial with arrow shaped dark-green leaves, whose preferred habitat is in, and alongside, streams and ponds.

It is an evergreen plant in its natural habitat where abundant rainfall and warm temperatures remain steady for most of the year. However in the cooler dryer climates of northern Europe it falls into more of a herbaceous lifecycle, losing its foliage during the winter.

Under favourable conditions the arum lily can grow to between 60–100 cm tall when in bloom, and forms large clumps of foliage. Each leaf can be up to 45 cm long. The large pure white flowers are produced in the spring, with additions blooms during the summer and autumn.

Despite their exotic looks the seeds are reasonable easy to germinate. Soak the the seeds in a container of warm water overnight. The next day fill 3 inch pots with a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'. Place one seed on the surface of each pot and then give a light dressing of vermiculite as arum lily seeds require the presence of light to help initiate germination. As you would expect from their semi-aquatic life cycle the seeds will need to be watered well and kept moist almost to the point (but not quite) of being waterlogged. Place the container outdoors in an unheated greenhouse. Germination will take between four to 12 weeks.

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TOP TEN HERBS FOR A HERB GARDEN

Top 10 herbs for a herb garden

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With so many different herbs to choose from it can be hard to decide which species to select when first planting up a herb garden. Of course it is only worth growing the types of herbs which you are most likely to use, and this will be dictated by the adventurousness of your culinary skills.

Our more popular herbs have been introduced from a wide range of climates and environments across the globe. Some are small and compact in growth, while others will sprawl across your herb garden smothering all others in its path (yes I am looking at you Mentha species)!

With this in mind I have categorized the following herbs with regards to their environmental requirements. That way you will only have to plant your herb garden once (hopefully) and get a decent crop from all of your plants.

Mediterranean - full sun and poor, free-draining soils

Credit - http://marycrimmins.com/

1. Basil - Believed to have originated from India, basil is now an extremely popular herb in many mediterranean dishes. There are a number of species and selected hybrids but it is the sweet basil which is typically used with Italian food.

It is easy to grow from seed and cultivated as an annual. It is most commonly used fresh in cooked recipes by being added at the last moment. This is because cooking basil will quickly destroys its sweet, anise flavour.

Depending on conditions Basil can grows to a height and spread of between 30–130 cm.

Credit - www.thehealthyhavenblog.com

2. Oregano - Native to warm-temperate western and southwestern Eurasia and the Mediterranean region, oregano is perennial with an aromatic, warm and slightly bitter flavour. Like basil, it is a popular herb in Italian cuisine, but perhaps more so in Italian-American cuisine as a result of soldiers returning with it from World War II who enjoyed its characteristic 'pizza' flavour.

Dried leaves have more flavour than fresh, and good quality oregano can be strong enough to almost numb the tongue. In cooler. northern European climates oregano may not survive the freezing winters and so may need to be planted with new stock each spring.

Depending on conditions oregano can grow to a height and spread of between 50–100 cm.

Credit - http://nutriadviser.com

3. Parsley - Native to the central Mediterranean region, parsley is widely used in Middle Eastern, European, and American cooking. Most often seen as a garnish (usually as curly-leaf parsley), the roots are also widely used in central and eastern European cuisines as a snack or a vegetable in soups, stews, and casseroles.

In temperate climates parsley is a bright green, biennial, plant, but acts as an annual herb in subtropical and tropical regions. It will grow to an ultimate height and spread of between 10-50 cm. Parsley will perform best in a moist, well-drained soil, in full sun to semi-shade.

Credit - www.tamayoproduce.com

4. Sage - Also native to the Mediterranean region, the common or garden sage is a perennial, evergreen subshrub which is cultivated for the savory, slightly peppery flavour of its new leaves. It is used in many European cuisines and is traditionally served as sage and onion stuffing - an accompaniment to roast turkey or chicken at Christmas or Thanksgiving Day. Other dishes include pork casserole, Sage Derby cheese and Lincolnshire sausages.

Sage will grow best in a light, moist, but well-drained soil in full sun. In colder, northern European countries it will need to be planted in a sheltered position that avoids becoming overly wet during the winter. You can expect sage to grow to an ultimate height and spread of between 50-100 cm.

Credit - www.gardeningknowhow.com

5. Thyme - Native to southern Europe from the western Mediterranean to southern Italy, the common thyme is a bushy, woody-based evergreen subshrub with small, highly aromatic leaves. The intensely pungent flavour will complement most meats, including chicken and game, and it is a good complement to slow-cooked dishes such as stews and daubes. It is one of the herbs used in bouquet garni, along with parsley and bay. Thyme is used both fresh and dried, but while the freshly picked leaves are more flavoursome they will only last a week or two under refrigeration. However thyme leaves will keep their flavour for many months if carefully frozen

Thyme is easy to grow in the majority of well-drained alkaline to neutral soils in a position that receives as much direct sunlight as possible. In favourable conditions thyme will grow to an overall height and spread of between 10 and 50 cm.

European - full sun, rich, moist but free-draining soils

Credit - www.upload.wikimedia.org

6. Chives - Chives are a commonly found herb in western cuisine and used to add flavour to fish, potatoes, soups and other dishes. Nature to much of Europe, Asia and North America, it is a perennial herb which will thrive in well-drained and slightly alkaline soils that are rich in organic matter. They will perform best in full sun.

In colder, northern European regions, the foliage die back to the underground bulbs during the winter, with the new growth emerging in early spring. When harvesting, the stalks should be cut to the base, but only harvest what you will immediately use. During the growing season, the plant will continually regrow leaves, allowing for a continuous harvest. However once the plants start to look old they can be cut back to about 2–5 cm above ground level.

Credit - www.homecaprice.com

7. Coriander - otherwise known as cilantro, coriander is an annual herb grown for its roots, seeds and foliage. Native to a wide area of Western Asia and southern Europe, coriander can grow to a height and spread of between 50–100 cm. Grow it in a fertile, well drained soil in full sun, especially when they are grown for seeds. For leaf production it will be better off grown in partial shade.

The leaves have a different taste from the seeds and are an ingredient in many Indian, Chinese and Thai dishes as well as being a popular flavouring in Mexican cooking. Like basil, heat causes coriander leaves to lose their flavour, and so are often used raw or added to the dish immediately before serving. The leaves are prone to turn quickly once removed from the plant, and will lose their aroma even when freshly dried or frozen.

Credit - www.upload.wikimedia.org

8. Mint - There are a number of popular mints species that can be grown in the garden but arguably the most popular is Spearmint - Mentha spicata. Native to much of Europe and Asia, it is a herbaceous, rhizomatous, perennial plant which will grow to an approximate height of 30cm with a spread of 100 cm. The leaves of spearmint are used to make mint sauce (the ideal accompaniment to roast lamb), added to boiled new potatoes and peas, to make mint jelly or to garnish summer drinks.

Spearmint prefers partial shade, but can flourish in a range of conditions from full sun to full shade. It is best suited to loamy soils which have had plenty of organic material previously dug in.

Asian - warm temperatures, direct sun and moist soils

Credit - www.simplysmoothies.org

9. Dill - The fern-like, aromatic leaves of dill are a widely used in European and central Asian cuisine. It is used to flavour many foods such as fish dishes, borscht and other soups, as well as pickles. Dill is best when used fresh as it will quickly lose its flavour when dried. Freeze-dried dill leaves, however, can retain their flavour for several months.

Native to south-west Asia, dill can be grown from seed easily in regions which experience warm to hot summers in a position which receives as much direct sunlight as possible. Be aware that even partial shade will reduce the yield substantially. It also prefers a rich, well drained soil.

Given favorable conditions you can expect dill to grow to between 50-100 cm with an approximate spread of 10-50 cm.

Credit - http://theida.com/

10. Tarragon - Tarragon is hardy perennial, cultivated for its aromatic leaves and is popular through the western world for flavouring chicken, fish and egg dishes. Tarragon is also the main flavour of Béarnaise sauce. There are a number of cultivars available but it is generally believed that French tarragon is the best for culinary use.

Native across much of Eurasia and North America, it will grow best in a hot, sunny spot in a moist but well-drained soil. Avoid overwatering as this will damage the roots. Under favourable conditions you can expect tarragon to grow to 50-100 cm high with a spread of 10-50 cm

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HOW TO GROW HYDRANGEA

How to grow Hydrangea

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To allow Hydrangeas to establish their root system prior to the spring, they are best planted in October and November. However if you miss this seasonal opportunity then you will have a second chance in March to April. To allow them to perform at their best, plant Hydrangeas in a good loamy, moisture-retentive soil that has been previously enriched with well-rotted manure, garden compost or other humus-rich organic compost such as leaf-mold. They are best grown in a sheltered position, against a wall or hedge, or beneath the canopy of tall trees. This is important as the young tender growths are easily damaged by late spring frosts. With this in mind, avoid planting Hydrangeas in a position where morning sun after night frosts can damage the new growth further.

Hydrangea villosa - http://bodnant-plants.co.uk/

Hydrangeas will thrive in full sun to semi-shade with the exception of Hydrangea sargentiana which will perform at it best in full shade. Hydrangea villosa will be happy in semi-shade but will scorch in full sun.

The highly popular, blue-flowering garden cultivars of Hydrangea macrophylla will not produce decent-colored blooms on alkaline soils. To avoid the colors leaching out to a drab, pinkish colour, dress the soil liberally with moss peat and apply colour-enhancing chemical feeds such as sequestrene or aluminium sulphate annually.

Pink cultivars of the same species tend to be less clear or take on purple hues when grown on acidic soils. In this instance, dress the roots with 2 ounces of ground-limestone per square yard annual to preserve the pink coloration.

All hydrangeas, and especially Hydrangea paniculata, will benefit from an annual mulch of well-rotted compost applied in April. However avoid regular feeding with liquid soluble fertilizers as this can lead to excessive soft, leafy growth. Over feeding can also cause Hydrangeas to promote foliage growth at the expense of developing flower buds. This soft growth will also leave them more at risk from frost damage over the winter.

Pruning

Image credit - http://i.telegraph.co.uk/

Most Hydrangea species require no regular pruning except to remove dead flower-heads after flowering, or later on in March. Remove any weak, diseased or damaged wood in February or March at the latest.

Cut back the previous years flowering shoots of Hydrangea arborescens and Hydrangea paniculata by half in February or March. Thin out at ground level two and three year old flowering shoot of Hydrangea macrophylla cultivars to promote strong new shoots.

The popular climbing Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris should have any overlong shoots cut back immediately after flowering. On established specimen most of the blooms will appear towards the top of the plant, so try to leave as much of this un-pruned as possible.

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WHAT IS AN EMU?

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The Emu is a very large and soft-feathered, flightless bird native to Australia and is second only in size to the ostrich. They have long thin necks and legs, and can reach a height of up to 7 ft.

Emu illustration

Until the eighteenth century there were several species of Emu in Australia, each living on a separate island. Sadly, populations were exterminated on Tasmania, Kangaroo, and other small islands by the early settlers. They were killed for both their flesh and for the oil that could be extracted from their carcases. The oil was considered valuable as it was used in the production if medicines and for lighting.

Their legs are among the strongest of any animal, enabling emus to travel great distances at a fast, economical trot. If need be they are able to sprint at over 30 mph!

They can travel long distances to find food and have been known to go for weeks without food. They feed on a variety of plants and insects, and will also ingest stones, glass shards and bits of metal to grind food in the digestive system. They drink infrequently, but can take in copious fluids when the opportunity arises.

What is an emu?

Emus will sit in water and are also able to swim. They are curious birds who are known to follow and watch other animals and humans. Emus do not sleep continuously at night but in several short stints sitting down.

The Emu is a sociable bird that predominately travel in pairs but will quite happily live in small groups, except during the mating season. Occasionally several groups may band together to form a large herd several thousand strong.

The emu is well adapted to a nomadic lifestyle, remaining in one place only when the male is incubating the eggs

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THE WORLD'S LARGEST BUTTERFLY - Ornithoptera alexandrae

THE WORLD'S LARGEST BUTTERFLY - Ornithoptera alexandrae

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The Queen Alexandra's Birdwing butterfly - Ornithoptera alexandrae, is truly a 'King' amongst its peers. It is without challenge the largest butterfly in the world, but sadly it is considered endangered by the IUCN. It is restricted to approximately 100 square kilometres of coastal rainforest near Popondetta, Oro Province, Papua New Guinea.

Female Ornithoptera alexandrae

Nonetheless there are abundant local populations but the Queen Alexandra's Birdwing butterfly requires old growth rainforest for its long term survival. The eruption of nearby Mount Lamington in the 1950s destroyed a very large area of this species' former habitat and is a key reason behind its current rarity. Be that as it may its remaining habitat is still under threat as it is being destroyed oil palm plantations.

The Queen Alexandra's Birdwing butterfly was named by Walter Rothschild in 1907, in honour of Alexandra of Denmark. However it was actually discovered by Albert Stewart Meek in 1906 a collector who was employed by Walter Rothschild to collect natural history specimens from Papua New Guinea.

The credentials regarding Meeks collecting abilities are currently under question as the first specimen was taken with the aid of a small shotgun. However, Meek soon discovered their pupae and collected the adults as they emerged.

Male form - Ornithoptera alexandrae

As it turns out there is sexual dimorphism in this species. Female Queen Alexandra's Birdwings are larger than males with markedly rounder, broader wings. The female's wingspan is a massive 12 inches, while the body length is almost 3 1/5 inches. The female is rather drab in colouration compared to the male with brown wings with white markings arranged as two rows of chevrons.

The male has wings that are long with angular apices. They are iridescent bluish-green with a black central band. The wingspan of the males is around 9 inches at most, but more usually specimens are seen with a span of about 6 inches.

Robert Nash file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 2.5 Generic license.
Mark Pellegrini file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic license.

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WHAT IS A DUCK-BILLED PLATYPUS

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The Duck-Billed Platypus (now more commonly known as just 'Platypus') is a semi-aquatic carnivore that lives in underground burrows found by small streams and rivers. It is an excellent swimmer and feeds on annelid worms, insect larvae, freshwater shrimps, and freshwater crayfish that it digs out of the riverbed with its snout, or catches while swimming.

It's habitat is quite diverse ranging from the cold highlands of Tasmania and the Australian Alps, to the tropical rainforests of coastal Queensland. However the Platypus is best known for being one of nature's most bizarre looking creatures.

Duck-Billed Platypus illustration - John Gould (1804–1881)

So strange is its appearance that when a pelt and sketch of a Platypus was sent back to Great Britain by Captain John Hunter, the second Governor of New South Wales, British scientists' initially believed that it was a hoax.

In fact, George Shaw, who produced the first description of the animal in the Naturalist's Miscellany in 1799, stated it was impossible not to entertain doubts as to its genuine nature. It was believed by many that a duck's beak had been sown onto the body of a beaver-like animal. Shaw even took a pair of scissors to the dried skin to check for stitches!

Of course, modern scientists now know that the Platypus is a true animal and a genuine miracle of nature. It is one of only five species of mammals (known as Monotremes) that lay eggs instead of giving birth, it is the sole living representative of its family Ornithorhynchidae, and it is also one of only a few venomous mammals. Strangely, only the male platypus is venomous which it is able to deliver from a spur on the hind foot.

The Platypus bill

Duck-Billed Platypus Bill

The bill of the Platypus is an incredible piece of biological engineering. It is a specialised sensory organ with electroreceptors located in rows just under the skin. Monotremes are the only mammals (apart from at least one species of dolphin) known to have a sense of electroreception. They use it locate their prey in part by detecting electric fields generated by muscular contractions. The platypus' electroreception is the most sensitive of any monotreme.

By using electroreception the platypus can determine the direction of an electric source, which explains the characteristic side-to-side motion of the animal's head while hunting. So sensitive is the platypus' electroreception sense that when it dives for feeding its eyes, ears, and nose are closed.

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WHEN TO HARVEST PUMPKINS

When do you harvest pumpkins

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Now that autumn is well and truly here, the western world is gearing up to one of the years greatest holidays - HALLOWEEN! Already the supermarkets are filling up with Halloween related items and that of course means giant boxes of pumpkins. So if the shops have pumpkins in stock then surely our home grown pumpkins are ready to harvest?

When do you harvest pumpkins

Well no, not quite. It is all well and good harvesting your pride and joy now, but it isn't going to last too long.

Now that isn't a problem if all you are using it for is Halloween decoration, but if you want to lift it from the field it so that it can be eaten at a later date, then it is still too early.

Best practice is to wait until the first decent frost hits your crop.

Once the leaves have properly died back the bright orange pumpkins hidden beneath will be revealed - unless of course you have grown a variety that isn't supposed to be orange.

Before you remove your prize there are three checks that you need to make to be sure that the pumpkin is ripe.

1. First you need to give it a good slap. If it sounds hollow then it is ready to be harvested.

When do you harvest pumpkins

2. Check the skin. If it is hard, and it should be, again it is ready to be lifted. If the skin is soft then you will need to leave it in place a bit longer. You can test this by gently pushing your thumbnail into the skin. If you can leave a dent in the skin without it puncturing then it is ready.

3. The final check is to have a look at the stem that attaches the pumpkin to the main body of the plant. If it is soft then leave it, but if it is hard then it is ready to be lifted.

Once you are happy that all three conditions have been met then you can be confident that pumpkin is ready to be harvested from the field.

In order for your pumpkin to remain in storage for as long as possible without it rotting it will need to be cured. To find out more about both harvesting and curing pumpkins you can click onto the following link: HOW TO CURE AND STORE PUMPKINS

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