WHAT IS BINDWEED?

What is bindweed?

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Bindweed - Convolvulus arvensis, although more accurately commonly known as the field bindweed, is a pernicious perennial weed common to many gardens and allotments in the south of England. Native to Europe and Asia it is a species of the the morning glory family.

Bindweed root system

It is a climbing or creeping herbaceous vine which left unmanaged can grow to between 0.5–2 metres high. It is considered problematical for two reasons:

1. A single plant can produce up to 500 seeds in one season, and each seed can remain viable in the soil for up to 20 years!

2. The extensive root systems can be several metres long and due to its brittle nature is prone to snapping when weeded. These roots are rich in carbohydrates and proteins and allows it to sprout new growth repeatedly from the remaining fragments.

The mid-green leaves are linear to arrowhead-shaped, and usually between 2–5 cm long. The white or pale pink, funnel-shaped blooms appear from June to August. Each flower is approximately 1.5-2.5 centimetres in diameter, with five slightly darker pink radial stripes and are subtended by small bracts. Once pollinated light brown fruits appear (approximately 0.3 cm wide) containing 2 seeds.

Arguably the best method of controlling bindweed is to use chemical herbicides although this isn't always practical if it is smothering economically or emotionally important plants. Digging out the roots is also a viable method although it will be a repetitive chore that will need to be maintained over several years until the underlying root system becomes exhausted.

To find out more about controlling bindweed click onto the following link:
HOW TO CONTROL BINDWEED - Convolvulus arvensis
HOW TO GROW CONVOLVULUS SABATIUS
WHAT IS BINDWEED?
Main image credit - Bouba - Convolvulus arvensis, 28 juin 2004, Jardin des Plantes de Paris (fr:Jardin des Plantes de Paris) https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en
In text image credit - Simon Eade gardenofeaden@gmail.com

HOW TO GROW CLEMATIS ARMANDII

How to grow Clematis armandii - Emmanuel Touzery CC BY-SA 4.0

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With all the large-flowered clematis hybrids becoming increasingly susceptible to Clematis wilt, most people's specimens end up spending the year looking little more than a thatch of dried stems. So to save years of disappointment, you are likely to get far more ornamental value from the other species, cultivars and alternative hybrids.

How to grow Clematis armandii

Arguably one of the best is the evergreen Clematis armandii, along with its various selected cultivars, my plant of choice is the pure-white flowered 'Snowdrift' which received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1984.

Native to central and western China, Clematis armandii is a strong growing, evergreen climber noted for it early blooming. Under favourable conditions you can expect the stems to reach a length of 4.5-6 metres long. Reminiscent of the deciduous species, the dark-green, glossy leave are composed of three leathery leaflets Each one can be up to 15 cm long. The creamy which flowers of the true species are between 5-6.5 cm across and are carried in axillary clusters during April or early May. Occasional blooms can appear from November onwards.

How to grow Clematis armandii

Clematis armandii will flower at its best when grown in full sun however it will be quite happy growing in semi-shade. It is ideal for a warm south or south-west facing wall with protection from cold winds. Grow in any moist, fertile, well-drained soil, though preferably one with either an alkaline or neutral pH. Mulch the base of the plant with well-rotted garden compost or farm manure but avoid having the mulch touching the stem.

Unlike the large flowering hybrids you do not need to bury the root ball below the soil level, plant Clematis armandii with the crown at soil level.

In coastal regions the leaf tips can take on a burnt appearance if grown in salty soil or salty water.

Clematis armandii was first brought to the attention of English gardeners in 1900 by renowned plant hunter Ernest Henry 'Chinese' Wilson (1876 – 1930), then subsequently received the First Class Certificate (FCC) from the Royal Horticultural Society.

For related articles click onto the following links:
HOW TO GROW CLEMATIS ARMANDII
HOW TO GROW CLEMATIS FLORIDA 'SIEBOLDII'
HOW TO GROW CLEMATIS TANGUTICA

HOW TO PROPAGATE CLEMATIS BY LAYERING

How to propagate clematis by layering

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The large-flowered clematis hybrids are among the most impressive of all ornamental climbers. However as they are all selected hybrids they will not grow true from seed and so they will all need to be propagated vegetatively.

How to propagate clematis by layering

While growing clematis from cuttings is the accepted method of propagation, it isn't straightforward as you will require a fungicidal drench, basal heat and hormone rooting powders.

While growing clematis from cuttings is a much quicker and allows for a larger number of plants to be produced, propagating clematis by layering is so much easier. The best time to propagate clematis this way is early spring using the serpentine (otherwise known as the compound) layering technique.

To begin with, choose a vigorous stem that has plenty of new growth and is long enough that it can be laid on the ground.

Rather than bury, and secure the stem directly into the ground (which you can do if you improve the soil with a humus rich compost), fill several 9 cm terracotta pots with a good quality soil-based compost such as John Inness 'Seed and Cutting', leaving a couple of centimetres gap at the top to aid watering. Bury the pots within each of the base of the stem, approximately 5 cm apart.

How to propagate clematis by layering

Being aware of where the stem will comfortably lie over the pots, cut short, narrow and shallow slices that will expose the cambium layer without cutting through it. Make as many cuts as you have pots, leaving a gap of approximately 20 cm between cuts.

As you would with regular clematis cuttings, dip each cut section into rooting hormone powder. Trying not to wipe the powder off, gently bury the cut stem sections 5 cm deep into separate pots. The vine should loop in and out of the pots.

Secure each cut section into its pot using a suitable peg or stone then gently water in. Continue to water regularly over the summer but avoid waterlogging. Water the pots well and keep them moist throughout the summer.

Roots should form over the coming months, and come the spring you can sever the stems between these new plants and from the mother plant.

Pot on into 1 litre pots. and once established they can be planted out into their final position.

For related articles click onto the following links:
CLEMATIS 'NELLY MOSER'
HOW TO GROW CLEMATIS ARMANDII
HOW TO GROW CLEMATIS FLORIDA 'SIEBOLDII'
HOW TO GROW CLEMATIS TANGUTICA
HOW TO GROW COTINUS COGGYGRIA 'ROYAL PURPLE' BY LAYERING
HOW TO PROPAGATE CLEMATIS BY LAYERING
HOW TO PROPAGATE ROSES BY LAYERING
THE EVERGREEN CLEMATIS - Clematis armandii
THE ORANGE PEEL CLEMATIS - Clematis tangutica

BUY TOMATO 'GIGANTOMO' - 8 Seeds

Buy Tomato 'Gigantomo' seeds

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If you are looking to grow giant tomatoes then Tomato 'Gigantomo' F1 hybrid may be just the thing you are looking for. It is a purpose bred, colossal beefsteak tomato and the largest new variety on the market. It has the much-loved flavour of the traditional heritage varieties, but with the benefits of the inbuilt vigour, productivity and disease-resistance of modern cultivars.

Online seed shop

To make the most of the shorter growing seasons of northern European climates you are growing Tomato 'Gigantomo' under the protection of a greenhouse or polytunnel then commence sowing the seeds from February to March. If you are growing directly outside then sow under protection from March to April with the view to planting outside into their final position once the threat of late frosts have passed.

Using 3 inch modular seed trays or 7.3 cm pots a good quality, free-draining, compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'. Sow Tomato 'Gigantomo' seeds onto the surface at a rate of two seeds per pot or module. Tomato seeds require the presence of light to help germination so cover with just a fine sprinkling of compost or vermiculite. Place the trays or pots in a propagator at a constant temperature of around 15-20 degrees Celsius.

Germination will take approximately 7-14 days. When the seedlings have produced two true leaves, remove the smaller of the two seedlings. Once the root systems has established in the modules they can be potted on into individual 7.5cm (3") pots and grown on at a minimum temperature of 15 degrees Celsius. Under favorable conditions you can expect Tomato 'Gigantomo' F1 hybrid to reach an approximate height of 200cm and with a spread of 50cm. Each fruit can weigh upwards of 3lbs or 1.4 kg!

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HOW TO PROPAGATE THE JAPANESE ANEMONE FROM ROOT CUTTINGS

The Japanese anemone - Anemone hupehensis

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The Japanese anemone - Anemone hupehensis, is a hardy ornamental flowering plant native to central China. It was introduced to English gardens in 1844, and since that time became something of a darling of Victorian propagators who subsequently produced a number of popular selected cultivars.

The following have received the Award of Garden Merit from the the Royal Horticultural Society:

'Bowles's Pink'
'Hadspen Abundance'
'Honorine Jobert'
'Königin Charlotte' ('Queen Charlotte')
'Pamina'
'September Charm'

Sections of anemone roots - Image credit www.artistsgarden.co.uk

The Japanese anemone is easily propagated through division between October and March, but this shouldn't be done until after the parent plant had has a chance to establish itself for several years.

Alternatively, root cuttings can be taken between November and January.

Insert 1-2 inch sections into pots containing equal parts of peat and sand by volume. The cuttings should be about 2 inches apart so that the horizontal cut surface at the top of the root is just below the surface of the compost and top dress with a 3/8 inch layer of grit.
Water the compost lightly and place the pots in a cold frame.

In the following spring, pot up individually when the cuttings show signs of growth and are well rooted. Grow plants on and plant out the following year.

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HOW TO GROW ABIES KOREANA FROM SEED

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Abies koreana is arguably the most popular and ornamental of all the Abies species. However plants under cultivation in the UK generally end up as poor specimens once mature. Why? Habitually vegetatively propagated, most examples of the Korean fir in the UK are descended from the first introduced specimen which taken from an isolated Korean island, This first introduction was a rather inferior representation of the species, so material taken from it for grafting purposes has resulted in the majority of UK plants being short and stunted in habit.

However, should you be of a mind to produce a better quality plant, or just want to try your hand at growing them from seed then it is a relatively simple affair - so long as you have viable seed at your disposal. The best time to sow Abies Koreana seeds is February.

Using a deep modular seed tray, traditional pan, or root training modules, fill with a suitable, good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'.

Sow the seeds on the surface, one per module or spaced at a rate of one seed per 3-5 cm. Add a layer of horticultural grit and then gently water in. Water the compost as necessary to keep it moist but do not allow it to become waterlogged. Place in a cold frame outside to overwinter. Alternatively, broadcast in outside prepared seed beds in March.

Once the seedlings are large enough to handle (for traditional pan grown) or their roots have established in their modules, they can be transplanted into 2 litre pots or a prepared seed bed outside. Once the seedlings have produced three sets of small branches. they can be fed monthly using a liquid soluble fertiliser diluted to one-fourth the strength recommended dose.

The Abies koreana will need to be grown on for a further 2-4 years, potting on as necessary for container grown plants, before they are ready to be planted out into their final position.

The young plants will grow well in moist, well-drained, slightly acidic soils in full sun.

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HOW TO GROW ABIES KOREANA
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WANT DO MANATEES EAT?

Image credit - http://www.huffingtonpost.com/

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The manatee is a herbivore which feeds solely on aquatic vegetation. It feeds and rests in short bouts throughout the day, directing vegetation into its mouth with its dextrous forelimbs or gathering it with its large, deeply split upper lip.

Because of the type of sea grass eaten by the manatee – combined with the fact that it often takes in large quantities of sand with each mouthful – the manatee’s teeth wear down very quickly. To compensate for this, the teeth are constantly replaced. New teeth are formed at the back of the mouth and move forward at the rate of 1 mm a month to push out worn front teeth at regular intervals.

The manatee needs an immense amount of food in order to maintain its great weight of up to 680 kg! To achieve this, it will eat between 8% and 15% of its own body weight each day.

The dense bulk of the manatee helps to keep it steady in the water as it feeds. It usually feeds submerged, but will occasionally rise above the water.

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WANT DO MANATEES EAT?
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WHAT IS GRAPESHOT?

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If you have had the opportunity to watch even just one period navel or pirate film, the chances are that 'grapeshot' is going to be mentioned at some point. Unsurprisingly it has nothing to do with firing vine fruits at the enemy, so what exactly is 'grapeshot'?

Unlike other forms of artillery shot, Grapeshot is not just one solid element but a mass of small metal balls or slugs, usually of lead or iron, packed tightly into a canvas bag. Typically, the balls were held in clusters of three by iron rings and combined in three or four tiers by cast-iron or wooden plates and a central connecting rod. This assembly had the appearance of a cluster of grapes which is reflected in its name. It was used mostly as a cannon charge, and when the weapon was fired the grapeshot broke up and spread out in flight like a shotgun charge.

Grapeshot was widely used in wars of the 18th and 19th centuries in both land and naval warfare. It was fired at short range, primarily as an antipersonnel weapon, being most effective against massed troops.

When used in naval warfare, larger grapeshot balls were also cast so that there were able to cut rigging, destroy spars, blocks, and puncture multiple sails.

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WHAT IS GRAPESHOT?

HOW TO GROW A PINEAPPLE FROM SEED

How to grow a pineapple from seed

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The pineapple fruit - Ananas comosus, is a common sight in most supermarket fresh produce aisles, but as familiar as it is today the pineapple is steeped in history and was once considered to be the most coveted of all fruit.

Pineapple illustration

Discovered in 1493 by Christopher Columbus during his voyages to the Americas, the pineapple became an instant hit when it was introduced to Europe.

Unfortunately the pineapple has a notoriously short shelf life and the 1-2 month sea voyage it made obtaining one was almost impossible.

Its extreme rarity meant that the pineapple quickly became a symbol of wealth and luxury, but despite the best efforts of European gardeners it was almost two centuries before they were able to mimic the conditions required to bring a pineapple plant to fruition.

With the benefit of modern air freight obtaining a fresh pineapple is no longer the pricey affair it use to be, but if you are up for a challenge you can still follow in the footsteps of those early pioneering gardeners buy growing a pineapple from seed yourself.

Germinating pineapple seeds

In order to get your hands on some seed cut a fresh and fully ripe pineapple into slices and remove the small, black seeds in the fruit's flesh. You will find them nearest the skin. Separate the seeds from the flesh using a small spoon and then wash them with water to remove any fruit pulp.

Place the seeds into a clear, plastic bag with a sheet of damp kitchen towel. Seal the bag and place in a warm bright position (such as a windowsill) but out of direct sunlight.

Usually germination will occur after about 4 weeks or so but it can take up to 6 months depending on light levels and temperature. Once germinated you will be able to see small, white and green roots sprouting out of the seeds, however keep them in the bag until the roots are about 1 inch in length.

Pineapple seedlings

Fill 3 inch pots with a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'. Carefully remove the seedlings from the bag and planting one in each pot place them on top of the compost.

Gently cover the seed with some more compost but in such away that the green shoots are left exposed above it.

Water in, then place the pots in a propagator or seal them insider a larger clear polythene bag to maintain humidity. Return the pots to their warm bright position.

Water the pots once a week so that the compost is moist but not waterlogged. After another 3 weeks or so they should be ready for potting on into 6 inch pots. If you are growing your pineapple seedlings in a northern European climate then they will need to be kept in a heated greenhouse with a minimum temperature of 20-25 degrees Celsius.

Pineapple plants

In tropical climates they can be planted outside in a free-draining soil positioned in full sun, but only once they have been hardened off for a couple of weeks first. Greenhouse plants will need to be potted up once more into a 10 litre pot once they have reached a suitable size.

These larger pots should be big enough to sustain the full growth of the pineapple plants until the fruit is ready to be harvested. You will need to feed pineapple plants once a month with a water-soluble high potash fertiliser.

Continue watering and feeding your pineapple plant throughout its life or until you decide to harvest the fruit. You can expect your plant should produce its first bear fruit within 2-3 years.

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THE GIANT HIMALAYAN LILY - Cardiocrinum giganteum

THE GIANT HIMALAYAN LILY - Cardiocrinum giganteum

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The giant Himalayan lily - Cardiocrinum giganteum, is truly a king amongst flowering bulbs. In fact it is the largest species of any of the lily plants, growing up to 3.5 metres in height. It was first discovered by western explorers in Nepal and introduced into commercial production in Britain in the 1850s.

THE GIANT HIMALAYAN LILY ILLUSTRATION

Native to the Himalayas (as indicated by its common name) you will find clumps of Cardiocrinum giganteum growing in woodland clearings at altitudes of between 1,500 and 3,600 metres.

In their natural habitat these magnificent plants can grow up to an incredible four metres tall and carry as many as 20 large, white, sweetly fragrant flowers. These flowers are produced on a single stem that emerges from each bulb. Sadly the bulb dies after flowering but it would have produced a number of new offsets which carry on the genetic line.

With regards to propagation, each of these offsets can be separated and re-planted just below the soil surface. While these offsets will flower much sooner that the parent bulb, taking only three to five years, specimens grown from offsets will never reach the stature of plants grown from seed.

Seed grown bulbs will take about seven years to reach flowering size, by which time it has a diameter of at least 20 centimetres and has managed to make itself partially visible by having physically pushed itself half way out of the soil. This does means that Cardiocrinum giganteum it is quite shallow rooted, and it is not uncommon to find a flowering stem that has keeled over due to the weight of its waxy flowers.

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SPIDER LILY - Hymenocallis species and cultivars
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THE CANNA LILY
THE GIANT HIMALAYAN LILY - Cardiocrinum giganteum
THE GIANT HIMALAYAN LILY - Cardiocrinum giganteum
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The Stargazer Lily
TURK'S CAP LILY - Lilium martagon

JAPANESE BLOOD GRASS - Imperata cylindrica 'Red Baron'

JAPANESE BLOOD GRASS - Imperata cylindrica 'Red Baron'

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Ornamental grasses have both structure and grace, and there are a huge number to choose from. However, they do have one major drawback, and that is they do lack the colour of more traditional foliage plants. At least that is true save for one example, the stunning Imperata cylindrica 'Red baron'- the Japanese Bloodgrass.

JAPANESE BLOOD GRASS

This unique perennial grass is a native to east and southeast Asia, India, Micronesia, Melanesia, Australia, and eastern and southern Africa. As exotic as it is, the Japanese Blood grass is hardy enough to be grown in the warmer regions of northern Europe. And while it is solely grown in the west for ornamental purposes, the less colourful species is used for paper-making, thatching, weaving into mats and bags, thatching the roofs of traditional homes throughout south-east Asia. It is also used in traditional Chinese medicine.

It develops its brightest blood-red colouring when grown in full sun and is best seen where the sun is behind it. It will remains attractive until late autumn until it goes dormant in the winter. While the young flowering shoots are edible, the Japanese Bloodgrass will rarely flower in the cooler climates of northern Europe.

The Japanese Blood grass is best grown in damp and very humus rich soil that will remain moist throughout in summer. If it is grown in soil that is kept too dry then it has a habit of slowly fading away.

The clumps spread slowly by underground by means of runners. Cut back to ground in early spring to expose more of the new seasons foliage.

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HOW TO GROW SALVIA DISCOLOR

HOW TO GROW SALVIA DISCOLOR

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Salvia discolor is a rarely seen, but absolutely gorgeous tender perennial. Native to a very localized area in Peru, it is sought after addition for many garden styles, but is a particular  favourite for the English cottage garden. Flowering over late summer to autumn, it does particularly well in warmer, Mediterranean climates.

SALVIA DISCOLOR

Its typical, straggly habit is down to this particular species of Salvia being scandent. This means that it can climb without the use of tendrils, instead it supports itself with the 'reaching' white stems that grow from its base.

The selling point of the plant are its stunning flowers. So dark is the blue pigment within its petals that to the naked eye they look almost black. This is further enhanced by the silvery-green calyx from which they emerge.

In order to try and mimic the conditions of its native environment you will need to provide a moist but well-drained soil. It is happy in both full sun and partial shade, and once established Salvia discolor can be quite resilient to drought, but not for too long!

Keep it an open and well ventilated position as it can be susceptible to a variety of fungal infections such as powdery mildew, rust, stem rot, and fungal leaf spots.

If you decide to overwinter in a greenhouse be aware that Salvia discolor can also be susceptible to attack from whiteflies, aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites. Therefore make sure that whatever protected environment you are using it has been sterilised with an insecticidal smoke or washed through with Jeyes fluid

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HYDNORA AFRICANA

Hydnora africana - giardinaggio.efiori.com

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As far as plants go, scaly skin is never going to be an attractive look, but throw in some freaky looking teeth and you have the plants world's equivalent of a horror movie.

The star of this flick is the Hydnora africana, a plant native to southern Africa that is a parasite on the roots of plants of the Euphorbiaceae family. Like most fungus species, Hydnora africana spends its life growing underground. In fact the only time it makes itself known is when its fleshy flower emerges above ground and then everyone knows about it. Why? Because it emits a 'nose bending' odour of faeces from the ivory-coloured pad of tissue in the centre which is designed to attract its natural pollinators, namely dung beetles, and carrion beetles.

Hydnora africana

When the flower of Hydnora first opens, it has white threadlike structures that cross the gap between the "sepals." The openings between these threads are just large enough for a beetle to enter. However it has difficulty in finding its way out. This keeps the beetle inside the flower long enough so that the beetle can pick up pollen or deposit pollen on its surface onto the stigmas at the bottom of the floral tube.

The threads that cross the gaps between the "sepals" are pulled apart after a few days. Any beetles that entered the flower through those threads can now easily escape.

Strangely, the fleshy pulp-like flower can be eaten, which is often where all of the plant’s seeds are located. Presumably this is how the Hydnora disperses its seeds, from being eaten by browsing animal and deposited elsewhere when the animal defecates.

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HYDNORA AFRICANA
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WHAT DO KOMODO DRAGONS EAT?

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The Komodo dragon is the largest true lizard that alive in the world today. Related to monitor lizards, they can reach up to an impressive 3 metres in length. As a result of their size, these lizards dominate the ecosystems in which they live making them the top predator on the tiny Indonesian islands where it lives, but just what does a Komodo dragon eat?

What does a Komodo dragon eat?

The Komodo dragon will eat almost everything that it can catch and overpower - including other Komodo dragons! However, in its native habitat, the Komodo dragon will generally eat wild pig, deer and monkey.

The adult dragon can move quickly, but only over short distances so it tends to hunt by ambush.

As soon as anything edible wanders into range, the Komodo dragon leaps out to seize the prey in its powerful jaws.

The Komodo dragon will also eat carrion, which it is able to locate by 'tasting' the air using its highly sensitive, forked tongue.

The young Komodo dragon is much more mobile than the adult and as such hunts actively, feeding on a range of small mammals, young birds and even insects.

The Komodo dragon grips its prey in its claws and jaws, then violently twists its head and body in order to tear off chunks of flesh, which it then swallows.

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PLANTS FOR DRY SHADE

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As any schoolchild will tell you, plants need light and water to grow. So when it comes to those awkward, dry shaded parts of the garden what do you do? Well. below is a list of commonly available dry and shade tolerant plants for your consideration. Just remember that although these plants will tolerate dry conditions, they are not cacti and as such will appreciate being watered every now and again!

Alchemilla mollis
This hardy perennial thrives in well-drained soil, and heavy shade. Lady’s Mantle is prized for its large leaves, pleasant rounded growth habit and airy yellow flower clusters that appear late spring through early summer. This perennial will grow about 18” tall and wide.

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Anemone blanda
The delightful flowers, like large daisies, have a dozen or more petals neatly arranged around a gold centre and come in a complete range of colours including blues, purples, pinks and whites. It is fully hardy requiring a light and well drained soil in partial shade.

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Aquilegia vulgaris
This is a charming, old-fashioned cottage garden plant with bonnet-shaped flowers, often two-tone and with long graceful spurs. Flowering in early summer, aquilegias fill the seasonal gap between the last of the spring bulbs and the first of the summer flowers.

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Aster divaricatus
This is a is a bushy, upright perennial with rigid branches bearing small dark-green, spiny leaves and dense clusters of long-lasting white daisy-like flowers in late autumn.

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Bergenia
Another hardy perennial with evergreen, glossy leaves. Commonly known as ‘Elephant Ears’ this architectural plant is available in a wide range of colourful hybrids available. They can also make a great ground cover plant.

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Brunnera macrophylla
This is one of the most attractive and useful spring-flowering perennials, producing a dense ground-covering layer of foliage. The leaves, up to 15cm (6in) across, are roughly kidney-shaped and provide an attractive foil for the long lasting sprays of starry pale blue forget-me-not flowers that appear shortly after the leaves cover the ground.

Lily of the Valley – Convallaria
Lily-of-the-valley plants are charming and often grown as an attractive ground cover where they will naturalize well when conditions suite them. Fragrant, white, bell-shaped flowers on 6” stalks appear mid-spring and were popular as cut flowers in wedding bouquets.

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Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides)Native to Eastern North America the Christmas Fern is a non-flowering, evergreen perennial. It will reach a height of 2 feet tall and the rhizomatous clumps will slowly grow to over 2’. It is very low maintenance and highly attractive with upright, evergreen foliage frond.

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Comfrey (Symphytum grandiflorum)
An herb, long used medicinally, this perennial will tolerate dry shade once established. Growing about 12” with handsome, semi-evergreen foliage, comfrey does well under shrubs or small trees. Use comfrey in the shade garden and ways to use this early spring-flowering perennial plant.

Cyclamen coum and Cyclamen hederifolium
These popular species Cyclamen will produce exquisite blooms from late winter to early spring. The leaves, which have silver patterning over dark green, and the flowers appear at the same time from tubers underground. Flower colour can vary from white to deep red. Mulch annually with leaf mould to help prevent the tubers from drying out during the heat of the summer and from the cold of winter. Both species have been given an Award of Garden Merit (AGM).

Epimedium grandiflorum
A wide range of plants are available in this species from low-growing ground covers only 6” tall to much larger plants up to 2’ in height. Also known as Barrenwort, this perennial plant has foliage which can turn red or orange in the autumn and remain over winter providing winter interest.

Galanthus 'S. Arnott'
Whilst almost all snowdrops require a moist soil in order to thrive, Galanthus ‘S.Arnott does not. It produces flowers with a subtle fragrance, that are almost twice the size of common snowdrops, on stems that can reach 25cm (10in) tall.

Galium odoratum
Commonly known as the Sweet Woodruff, this vigorous, mat-forming perennial produces sweetly fragrant flowers during June and July. It can also be used a s a ground cover plant.It is a vigorous mat-forming perennial with whorls of bright green, lance-shaped leaves and clusters of small white, starry flowers from late spring.

Geranium
Not to be confused with the common bedding geraniums, this family of hardy herbaceous perennials will often do a stunning job of brightening up an area of dry shade. Species to look out for are Geranium nodosum - Bluish pearly pink flowers, Geranium phaeum 'Album' an excellent geranium for shade as the white flowers light up a dry shaded spot, and Geranium 'Katherine Adele' - heavily mottled foliage almost completely purple flushed, with lined pink flowers.

Hypericum calycinum
This vigorous and spreading semi-evergreen shrub with lance-shaped leaves. It produces golden –yellow flowers up to 3 inches across through the summer and early autumn.is a fast-growing, spreading, semi-evergreen to evergreen shrub with lance-shaped leaves and yellow flowers throughout summer into early autumn is a fast-growing, spreading, semi-evergreen to evergreen shrub with lance-shaped leaves and yellow flowers throughout summer into early autumn.

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Iris foetidissima
A native Iris that does well in dry soils in shade, purplish and yellow flowers in summer, but the real interest are the seed pods which split in autumn to reveal scarlet fleshy seeds.

Lamium galeobdolon 
Commonly known as the Yellow Archangel, this perennial plant will grow to 1-2ft tall and wide. Archangel would make an excellent, low-maintenance groundcover for a woodland area but is probably not the best choice for small mixed borders. Consider planting Lamium orvala - the ‘Giant dead nettle’ in warmer climates.

Lathyrus vernus
Spring pea, a non-climbing woodlander from Eastern Europe. Blue-purple flowers.

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Liriope muscari 'Big Blue'
Predictably large with blue flowers. One of the best of the good flowering forms, to 40cm tall and wide, evergreen.

Mahonia aquifolium
This is a suckering shrub with glossy, dark green, leathery foliage. Fragrant rich yellow flowers are produced in numerous dense clusters in March and April followed by blue/black berries. The variety ‘Atropurpurea’ has leaves which turn a rich-red-purple in winter.

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Omphalodes cappadocica
A clump forming species with bright green leaves. It produces, comparatively large blue flowers in masses in spring.

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Oxalis
All hardy species should do well under dry and shady condition – although not heavy shade. Enrich the soil before hand with peat or leaf mould.

Pulmonaria
Commonly known as Lungwort due to the plants medicinal uses throughout history. A spring flowering perennial, Pulmonaria grows about 12” tall and 18” wide and has long, lance-shaped leaves that are often speckled, splotched, variegated or frosted looking. Highly attractive foliage and vivid flowers make lungwort a favourite understory plant. Part shade and well-draining soil are preferred.

Ruscus
Species from this family are well known for being hardy evergreens. They have unusual stemless leaves and while the flowers are inconspicuous they do display handsome, large red berries in the autumn on the female varieties.

Scilla
Related to our English bluebell, scilla are a species of easy-to-grow bulbs. They will do well in any free draining soil but enrich the soil before hand with peat or leaf mould.

Tellima grandiflora
This hardy evergreen is chiefly grown for its leaves which make good ground cover throughout the year. The variety ‘Forest frost ‘produces heavily mottled leaves which are to a burgundy colour, pink flowers in Spring.

Tiarella
Two species from this family of hardy evergreens are of particular interest – T. trifoliate and T. polyphylla. Happy in the shade they need a free-draining soil but these plants will die back if the soil dries out completely so enrich the soil before planting with plenty of organic matter.

Vinca major and Vinca minor
These popular ground cover evergreens are happy in any ordinary free draining soil. There are a number of varieties available flowering any time from March until July.





For related articles click onto the following links:
EVERGREENS FOR DRY SHADE
HOW TO GROW CYCLAMEN FROM SEED
PLANTS FOR AUTUMN COLOUR
RHS Plants for Dry Shade
THE SNOWDROP 'GRUMPY'