Showing posts with label ranked 1. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ranked 1. Show all posts

HOW TO GROW CONVOLVULUS SABATIUS

How to grow Convolvulus sabatius







Commonly known as the ground blue-convolvulus or blue rock bindweed, Convolvulus sabatius
is a woody-stemmed trailing perennial plant native to Italy and North Africa. Often found and sold under the synonymous name Convolvulus mauritanicus, it is generally cultivated as an annual in the cooler climates of northern Europe. It has a tufted, mat-forming habit making it a popular as summer bedding.

Under favourable conditions you can expect Convolvulus sabatius to grow to approximately 20 cm in height. It has slightly hairy, ovate to obovate leaves and light blue to violet, funnel-shaped blooms which appear from June to September. The flowers have a light-blue to white centre, and are approximately 2.5–5 cm in diameter.

For best results Convolvulus sabatius can be grown in any well-drained garden soil in a sunny position. Water regularly during periods of drought and apply a liquid soluble fertiliser fortnightly once in bloom. Remove the seed heads as they form to ensure a succession of flowers.

Convolvulus sabatius received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1993.

By Frank Vincentz - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3559833

For related articles click onto the following links:
HOW TO CONTROL CONVOLVULUS SABATIUS
HOW TO CONTROL BINDWEED - Convolvulus arvensis
WHAT IS BINDWEED?

WHAT IS EATING THE FLOWERS ON PANSIES AND VIOLAS?

What is eating the flowers of pansies and violas?

It can be extremely frustrating to find that after all the effort of purchasing and then planting garden displays of pansies and violas that the flowers become ragged and attractive, seemingly overnight! Usually there is little evidence of a culprit but it is likely to be the works of caterpillars, slugs or snails. The work or earwigs should also be considered

Caterpillars

What is eating the flowers of pansies and violas?
Caterpillars will happily feed on pansy and viola flowers leaving ragged buds and petals. They will also leave torn leaves. Depending on the species, excessive damage can defoliate the pansies if not controlled. Finding the caterpillars themselves is easier said than done, but have a good look through the foliage

Biological controls include a soil bacterium known as Bacillus thuringiensis. This will control caterpillars without affecting beneficial insects, humans or mammals.

Chemicals controls are widely available in all good garden centres.

Slugs and Snails


What is eating the flowers of pansies and violas?
Slugs and snails are also known eat pansy and viola blossoms and buds. but will also leave large holes in the leaves. Unless the slugs and snails are particularly small their presence can be identified by silvery mucus trails

Both organic and chemical controls are easily available. Slug pellets are easy to use and apply. Nematodes are an excellent organic method while others are a little hit and miss.

Earwigs

Earwigs are well known for eating blooms but are also notoriously difficult to find. Earwigs can be trapped using cans sunk into the ground filled with a little fish oil and then removed from site simply by emptying them every day. Alternatively set out some crumpled, damp newspaper, the dump the contents into a bucket of soapy water in the morning. Alternatively, empty out the earwigs a long way, away.

Image credits - Simon Eade at gardenofeaden@gmail.com

For related articles click onto the following links:
BLACK SPOTS ON PANSY AND VIOLA LEAVES
WHAT IS EATING THE FLOWERS ON PANSIES AND VIOLAS?

HOW TO GROW CEANOTHUS THYRSIFLORUS 'PERSHORE ZANZIBAR'

How to grow Ceanothus thyrsiflorus 'Pershore Zanzibar'

Ceanothus thyrsiflorus 'Pershore Zanzibar' is an ornamental evergreen shrub noted for its attractive variegated foliage. Native to Oregon and California, the original species was first described in 1837 and is arguably one of the hardiest forms in cultivation. The 'Pershore' part of the cultivar name reflects the selection of this form at Pershore Horticultural College, Warwickshire, England.

How to grow Ceanothus thyrsiflorus 'Pershore Zanzibar'
Under favourable conditions you can expect Ceanothus thyrsiflorus 'Pershore Zanzibar' to reach an approximate height and spread of between 1.5-2.5 metres. It has an loose, arching and somewhat untidy habit and is often cultivated as a wall shrub to show the foliage to its best effect. The leaves are a light greenish-yellow, blotched with dark green in the centre which fades as the season progresses. The blooms are bright blue and appear from April to June, however they are smaller that those of the original species.

It is best planted in a sunny, sheltered position away from cold, drying winds. It will be happy planted in most well-drained garden soils although it can become chlorotic on chalk soils. Avoid soils prone to waterlogging.

Be aware that Ceanothus thyrsiflorus 'Pershore Zanzibar' has plant breeders rights and so cannot be propagated from with the correct permissions.
Click onto the above image for the 'Seeds of Eaden' seed shop
For related articles click onto the the following links:
HOW TO GROW THE CALIFORNIAN LILAC - CEANOTHUS SPECIES
HOW TO GROW CEANOTHUS THYRSIFLORUS 'PERSHORE ZANZIBAR'
HOW TO GROW GRISELINIA LITTORALIS 'Variegata'
HOW TO GROW GRISELINIA LUCIDA

HOW TO GROW PHORMIUM COLENSOI 'TRICOLOUR'

How to grow Phormium colensoi 'Tricolour'





Phormium colensoi 'Tricolour' (formally known as Phormium cookianum 'Tricolour') is a popular, evergreen perennial noted for its ornamental foliage. The 'Tricolour' sport (part of a plant that shows morphological differences from the rest of the plant) was discovered in 1888 by William Summers, a gardener on the Brancepeth Estate, one of the largest sheep stations in the history of New Zealand.

How to grow Phormium colensoi 'Tricolour'
The discovery of Phormium colensoi 'Tricolour' was recorded. William Summers found the sport on the steep cliffs of the Wainuioru River, in the Wairarapa area of New Zealand's North Island. However due to its remote and almost inaccessible location William Summers was reluctant to be lowered down the cliff face to collect a division of the sport, however a sailor who was also working at Brancepeth at the time agreed to collect the specimen in his stead. So without the courage of the sailor, whose name was unfortunately not recorded, the 'Tricolour' sport, the subsequent sport 'Cream Delight', nor any of the other hybrids from which these two cultivars have parented would not exist today.

It is a large, clump-forming specimen with sword-like leaves. Each leaf can grow to approximately 1-1.5 metres and is striped yellow and green with a thin red edge. Once established you can expect it to attain a spread of between 1.5-2.5 metres. The blooms are produced on panicles (flower stems) up to 1 metre over the summer, although when grown in northern European gardens the flowers are rarely produced.

The natural habitat of the original species is separated into two distinct geological form. The first is restricted to the lowland regions of the North Island and is easily identified by producing yellow flowers. The second inhabits the mountainous regions of both islands and displays red flowers.

As a garden plant Phormium colensoi 'Tricolour' has proven to be surprisingly adaptable. So long as it is positioned in full sun it will cope well in a wide range of 'ordinary' soil from acid to alkaline, and sand, chalk or clay. It also displays excellent tolerance for maritime conditions and high air pollution.

When growing in northern European gardens it should not be considered fully hardy although it has proven to be hardy enough to survive outside in the south and southwest of England and Ireland. Winter protection will need to be considered when planted further north, just be aware that Phormium colensoi 'Tricolour' can be killed off during unseasonably cold british winters.
Click onto the above image for the 'Seeds of Eaden' seed shop
Main image credit - http://northcoastgardening.com/

For related article click onto the following links:
HOW TO GROW PHORMIUM COLENSOI 'TRICOLOUR'
HOW TO GROW PHORMIUM COOKIANUM (Phormium Colensoi)
HOW TO GROW PHORMIUMS FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW PHORMIUM TENAX

CLIMBING PLANTS FOR FOLIAGE COLOUR EFFECT

Climbing plants for foliage colour effect

Climbing plants can make for a fantastic addition in any garden, and there are plenty of exotic, flowering species to choose from. However, no matter how gorgeous the flowers are, the blooms are often short lived leaving only the foliage to provide ornamental effect for the rest of the year.

Like the majority of garden plants available, most climbers produce regular green leaves which will often fade to the background amongst the rest of the specimen plants. However, appropriate foliage colour can provide a far longer effect and with a little though and design can enhance the plants in front of them.

In no particular order, check out my choice of top 8 (10 was a bit of a stretch) and sometimes award-winning ornamental foliage climbing plants.

Hedera helix 'Buttercup'

Hedera helix 'Buttercup'
Hedera helix 'Buttercup' is arguably the most eye-catching of all the ornamental ivy cultivars. It is a selective cultivar of our native ivy and was introduced to English gardeners around 1925. The broad, bluntly lobed, evergreen leaves are a rich golden-yellow, becoming yellowish-green or pale green as they age.

Plant in a sheltered position in full sun to semi-shade, in a moist but well-drained soil.

Hedera helix 'Buttercup' received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1984.

Vitis vinifera 'Purpurea'

Vitis vinifera 'Purpurea'
Commonly known as the Teinturier grape, Vitis vinifera 'Purpurea' is a deciduous ornamental grapevine. The leaves first emerge a claret-red colour, later turning a deep vinous purple.

It will happily grow in most moist, well-drained soils in a sunny to partially shaded position. Provide a sheltered position.

Vitis vinifera 'Purpurea' received the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit in 1984.

Parthenocissus quinquefolia Variegata

Parthenocissus quinquefolia Variegata
Commonly known as the Parthenocissus quinquefolia Variegata, or Variegated Virginia Creeper, is a selected cultivar of the species which has lovely creamy white splashes on the foliage.

It is less vigorous than the regular Parthenocissus quinquefolia making it ideal for smaller areas. With the genus being noted for its spectacular autumn colour it is possible for the foliage to be red, pink, white, and green all at the same time!

Parthenocissus quinquefolia Variegata will be happy planted in full sun or partial shade in any fertile, well-drained soil

Jasminum officinale 'Fiona Sunrise'

Jasminum officinale 'Fiona Sunrise'
Jasminum officinale 'Fiona Sunrise' is arguably the best yellow leaved climber currently available. It is a vigorous, deciduous cultivar perfect for training over walls, arches or gateways. However due to its strong growth will require a suitably sturdy support structure.

Plant in a sheltered position in full. sun. Jasminum 'Fiona Sunrise' is tolerant of partial shade, but the foliage will turn a yellowish green if there is not enough light. Jasminum officinale 'Fiona Sunrise' prefers fertile, well-drained soil and a sheltered position with some winter protection.

Vitis coignetiae 'Claret Cloak'

Vitis coignetiae 'Claret Cloak'
Vitis coignetiae 'Claret Cloak' is a large-leaved, deciduous climber with purple-red shoots and young leaves. It was found growing in a batch of seedlings of Vitis coignetiae during 1988 in Fromefield Nurseries, Romney.

As the leaves age, they become greener, but they also turn to rich colours in autumn. 'Claret Cloak' is harder to find in garden centres than the species, but is available from nurseries that specialise in climbing plants.

Vitis coignetiae ‘Claret Cloak’ is very easy to grow in any reasonably fertile soil in sun or part shade, but will need a support in order to establish.

Actinidia kolomikta

Actinidia kolomikta
Actinidia kolomikta is a rarely seen yet extremely ornamental deciduous climbing plant native to the Eastern Asiatic Region. It is a striking climber noted for the tri-coloured variegation of many of its leaves.

Plant in a moist but well-drained. For best foliage effect position in full sun.

 Actinidia kolomikta received the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit in 1984.

Humulus lupulus 'Aureus'

Humulus lupulus 'Aureus'
Commonly known as the 'Golden Hop', Humulus lupulus 'Aureus' is a strong growing vigorous herbaceous climber with rough, twining stems. It bears yellow, deeply lobed leaves and drooping cone-like, greenish-yellow, aromatic female flower clusters which followed by attractive hops.

It is ideal for growing up trellis or over an arch in a sheltered position. It will tolerate partial shade but a sunny place will produce the best leaf colour so long as the soil does not dry out.

Plant Humulus lupulus 'Aureus' in a sheltered position in a moist but well-drained soil.

Parthenocissus henryana

Parthenocissus henryana
Native to China, Parthenocissus henryana is a vigorous, deciduous tendril climber which under favourable conditions can growing up to 10 metres in height. It was named after the Irish plant collector Augustine Henry (1857–1930) who discovered the species on his tour of Central China in the 1880s. However it was introduced to Great Britain by another great plant collector, Ernest Henry Wilson, in 1903.

The thick glossy leaves are dark velvety green or tinged bronze, with 3-5 silvery-veined leaflets which give an evergreen feel to this handsome specimen. They then change colour to a brilliant red in autumn before falling.

Hedera colchicum 'Sulphur Heart'

Hedera colchica 'Sulphur Heart'
Hedera colchicum 'Sulphur Heart' is an evergreen climbing shrub that clings to its support by aerial roots. It has broadly ovate leaves to 20cm in length, which are dark green with a central splash of yellow and yellow-green.

It is a vigorous cultivar which will grows best in fertile, humus-rich, alkaline soil. That being said, it will tolerate acidic soils.

The Royal Horticultural Society gave Hedera colchicum 'Sulphur Heart' the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM) in 1984.

For related articles click onto the following links:
CLIMBING PLANTS FOR FOLIAGE COLOUR EFFECT
CLIMBING PLANTS FOR SHADED WALLS AND FENCES

HOW AND WHEN DO YOU CUT AN ARBUTUS HEDGE?

How and when do you cut an Arbutus hedge?

Commonly known as the Strawberry tree or Killarney strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo is best known as an ornamental, evergreen shrub or small tree. However, it can also be used to great effect as a formal or informal hedge. The leaves are a glossy, dark green, and white, bell-shaped flowers appear in the autumn. Arbutus unedo is most noted for its strawberry-like red fruits, which ripen from the previous years flowers. Just be aware that if regularly clipped to maintain a formal effect you will prevent it from coming into bloom, which will subsequently result in a lack of fruit.

How and when do you cut an arbutus hedge?
The best time for pruning an arbutus hedge is from late winter or early spring. You can expect a flush of new growth at the end of May followed by a seasonal drop of some of the older leaves. Newly planted hedges should be cut down in their first spring by 1/3 rd of their height to help promote basel growth, and for the first two years after planting.

Informal hedges will require little pruning. Just remove and diseased, damaged, congested or crossing shoots as they appear late winter or early spring. After pruning, mulch with well-rotted farm manure or garden compost.

Formal hedges can be clipped to shape using hand shears or an electric or petrol powered hedge trimmer. If they are regularly trimmed, there will be no need for the width of to exceed 60cm . Formal hedges should be slightly tapered on both sides so that the base is wider than the top and light can reach the bottom of the hedge.

How and when do you cut an arbutus hedge?
While April to May is an ideal time to prune back an arbutus hedge, be aware that in the United Kingdom cutting hedges and trees should be avoided between March and August as this is the main breeding season for nesting birds.

It is an offence under Section 1 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act of 1981 to intentionally take, damage or destroy the nest of any wild bird while it is in use or being built. So it would be considered an intentional act, for example, if you or your neighbour know there is an active nest in your arbutus hedge and still cut the hedge, damaging or destroying the nest in the process.

Once cut, red buds will start to appear on the exposed wood after about a month or so.

For related articles click onto the following links:
HOW AND WHEN DO YOU CUT AN ARBUTUS HEDGE?
HOW TO GROW ARBUTUS UNEDO
HOW TO GROW THE STRAWBERRY TREE - Arbutus unedo
HOW TO GROW THE STRAWBERRY TREE FROM SEED
WHEN AND HOW TO PRUNE BACK CHOISYA TERNATA
WHEN AND HOW DO YOU PRUNE BACK WEIGELA

JAPANESE KNOTWEED REMOVAL IN LITTLEHAMPTON

Japanese Knotweed removal in Littlehampton
WANT TO ERADICATE JAPANESE KNOTWEED FROM YOUR LITTLEHAMPTON PROPERTY? THEN CONTACT THE 'GARDENERS OF EADEN' AT gardenofeaden@gmail.com

Japanese knotweed is no laughing matter. It can both damage and devalue properties, although it is no longer illegal or notifiable to have Japanese Knotweed on your property. However you could be fined up to £5,000 or be sent to prison for up to 2 years if you allow contaminated soil or plant material from any waste you transfer to spread into the wild.

Unfortunately by law, if you find Japanese Knotweed on your land, it is your responsibility to eradicate it and prevent its further spread.

So what can you do?

Digging out Japanese Knotweed
Simply digging out Japanese knotweed is of course possible, but due to the depth that the roots can penetrate (up to 3m deep), regrowth usually occurs. Be aware that it takes just 0.8g of root for a new plant to grow again.

This method also creates problems with regards to disposal as Japanese knotweed is classed as 'controlled waste' under the Environmental Protection Act 1990. This requires a specific licence to transport Japanese knotweed waste, which can then only be taken to a landfill site licensed to accept Japanese knotweed.

Maybe we can help?

Chemical application on Japanese Knotweed
Arguably the most effective way to control and remove Japanese knotweed is to spray it with one of a number of commercial weedkillers - known as herbicides. Your local professional and award winning garden company 'The Gardeners of Eaden' are based in littlehampton and can provide a free assessment and quote regarding this.

All herbicides are applied  by a fully trained and licenced operatives with PA1 and PA6 certificates accredited by the City and Guilds National Proficiency Test Council. Proof of licence and certificates are available on request.

You can contact us at gardenofeaden@gmail.com or call us on 01903 715013

For related articles click onto the following links:
JAPANESE KNOTWEED
WHAT DOES JAPANESE KNOTWEED LOOK LIKE?
WHAT IS JAPANESE KNOTWEED

HOW TO GROW PRIZE WINNING CACTUS

Prize winning cactus - http://www.akcactus.org.nz/


It’s very easy to produce a prize winning cactus. All you have to do is have one slightly better than whoever would have won had you not been competing. Of course, depending on the quality of the competition this could be easier said than done!

Now if you were not aware before, then you will need to know about those motivated folks from the British Cactus and Succulent Society (BCSS). Their love of cacti and succulents borders on obsession and for a few of them that line was walked over years ago. So if you have a BCSS club in your area then the likelihood is that there will be an official BCSS judge available, and that means the competition will be a lot more serious.

Get the basics right

Read the rules. Understand the rules. Apply the rules. As with all plant shows affiliated with the Royal Horticultural Society there will be set of rules and requirements that must be adhered to. It doesn’t matter how amazing your cactus looks, get this part wrong and you will receive a ‘Not according to Schedule’ notification. In layman’s terms this means that your entry has been disqualified. If you do not know the rules then get a copy. There is no excuse!

Are your specimens healthy and blemish free?

Cactus - http://www.semena-rostliny.cz/
If you have done your homework and your specimen fits the category requirements then make sure that it is in peak condition. It doesn’t matter how rare or old or how difficult it has been to grow, if your cactus looks sick, diseased or is actively being feasted upon by pests then you will not win your chosen category. If you are not sure of your plants requirements then do your research. Furthermore, there should be no discoloured blooms and all spines should be present and undamaged which means transporting larger, wobbly specimens with as much care and attention as humanly possible. You will notice that the more established exhibitors will tend to stick with low-growing, clump-forming or miniature cacti for ease of transporting and damage control.

Correct labels

If you do not know the botanical name of your cactus then again, do your research. Failing that, email images of your specimen to the BCSS or RHS for identification by their dedicated team of botanists and plant specialists. In a close run competition then a correctly named plant will always be chosen above one with a missing or incorrect name. Wherever possible use the genus, species and where necessary the cultivar name. All names should be correctly written as per the rules of Linnaeus nomenclature.

Pots and containers

Cactus pots - http://paradisexpress.blogspot.co.uk/
At the very least your pot or container should be clean and free from any damage. Avoid plastic pots as they look cheap and if in any doubt use a new terracotta pot with the label and glue cleaned away. While the pot or container will not gain you any points as such the more established competitor will choose pots that will help to show off cacti to their best. Pots that complement the habit or colour should always be favoured. Too small a pot will just look as though you have neglected your cacti while too large a pot will over-power your cactus and make it look less impressive. However larger pots can be used to ‘frame’ your cactus using rocks and gravels.

Top dressings

Never offer up a specimen with just the pot and the compost as a backdrop. If you have a top class specimen then provide a suitable top dressing to show it at its best. Fancy sands can fall out the pot during transportation and cheap gravel looks exactly that. There are plenty of fine grade coloured gravels to choose from, just make sure you choose the right ones to enhance the look of your plants rather than diminish them.

What do the judges want to see?

Cactus judge - http://gardeninggonewild.com/
The difference between first and second place is just a single point. So to curry favour with the judges you will need to tick several boxes:

1. Difficulty of cultivation. Anyone can grow a cactus; usually you ignore it and then water it whenever you feel guilty about its neglect. To impress the judges you will need to present a species that requires a more challenging routine and in perfect condition.

2. Present a well-balanced plant and container. See above notes for pots and containers. It is not a pot competition so you will not get extra points for having a nice container. However anything that can make your plant look better has to be worth the investment.

3. Judges want to see age in a cactus specimen. Anyone can purchase a clean looking plant from the local garden centre but nothing will impress them more than a show quality specimen with good ten or twenty years under its belt. In fact it is not uncommon to come across established competitors showing plants that are 40-60 years old! Along with age, plants in full flower will always be good for a few bonus points. Be aware that some judges will prefer any evidence of flowering to prove maturity while others will not. It is always worth having a word with the organisers for their advice on this particular point.

Cheating

If you want to try and ‘buy’ your first prize then remember that all horticultural entries must be the bona-fide produce of the exhibitor. Competition organisers usually expect show plants to have been grown for a period of at least six weeks before the show and can ask for proof if they smell anything fishy (besides carefully masked fungal rots) about your cacti.

For related articles click onto the following links:
HOW TO GROW THE BRAIN CACTUS
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HOW TO GROW MAMMILLARIA FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW PRIZE WINNING CACTUS
THE BRAIN CACTUS - Mammillaria elongata 'Cristata'

HOW TO GROW BRACHYSCOME


The plant we know as just 'Brachyscome' is a gorgeous little half-hardy annual, often grown as summer bedding in northern Europe as a backdrop to larger, brightly coloured specimens such as roses or tall-stemmed, late blooming tulips. Although there are up to 80 species within the genus the most popular of all is Brachyscome iberidifolia, perhaps more commonly known as the Swan River Daisy.

It has an erect habit with deeply cut, pale-green leaves and can grow to a height of approximately 18 inches. The fragrant flowers are daisy like, 1 1/2 inches across and can range in colour from white to pink, lilac and blue-purple. You can expect Brachyscome iberidifolia to bloom from late-June to September.

Native to Western Australia, Brachyscome iberidifolia will thrive in a rich loamy soil, growing in a site that receives as much sun as possible. However it has proven to be both tough and adaptable, capable of providing a good display in even poor or sandy soils.

Young plants should be planted out in May and 15 inches apart, but only once the threat of late frosts have passed. Before planting make sure that they have been fully hardened beforehand. Brachyscome iberidifolia can be prone to straggly growth, so for best effect pinch out the growing tips to encourage the formation of side-shoots and plant in close-knit groups so that they can support each other as they grow. Individual specimens may require the support of inconspicuous twiggy sticks. New plants will require regular watering until they establish. Afterwards you will only water during dry periods as Brachyscome is surprisingly drought tolerant.

If growing from seed, sow under glass in March, giving a very light covering of compost or vermiculite is required to help initiate germination. Provide a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius and you can expect the seedlings to emerge in 10-15 days. Once established reduce the temperature to 16 degrees Celsius after pricking out.

Alternatively, sow Brachyscome directly in their final position in April and then thin out to their required spacing. If cold weather is expected then provide the protection of a cloche.

Main Image credit - Simon Eade gardenofeaden@gmail.com

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GARDENERS HQ Brachyscome
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SNOW-IN-SUMMER - Cerastium tomentosum

HOW TO GROW SHARON FRUIT - Diospyros kaki

How to grow sharon fruit - Diospyros kaki


Otherwise known as the Japanese persimmon, the hardy Sharon fruit - Diospyros kaki is a deciduous fruit tree rarely grown in the gardens of English, due in part to its strong association with far warmer mediterranean and Asian climates. Be that as it may, it is the most widely cultivated species within the Diospyros genus and is among some of the oldest crops still in cultivation. In fact its use has been recorded as far back as 2000 years in China.

How to grow sharon fruit - Diospyros kaki
The Sharon fruit tree is considered to be either a large shrub or a small tree, and grown for its edible, orange-yellow tomato shaped fruits. The flowers are diecious, not particularly showy, and appear in the spring. The female blooms are a creamy white while the males emerge pink.

However as an ornamental tree is should alway be considered a worthy garden plant if only for the large, exotic and lustrous leaves and their glorious orange-yellow to orange-red and plum-purple coloured autumn-effect foliage. Should you chose to, the brightly coloured fruit can be left unharvested on the tree as a decorative effect. Alternatively harvest the fruits when the skins reach a deep orange colour.

When growing the Sharon fruit in a more northern European garden it will need a sunny position, sheltered from northerly and easterly winds. It will grow best in a deep, moist, slightly acidic and well-drained loamy soil. However while it is surprisingly tolerant of varying soil types, it will prefer moist, sandy soils. Water during its first year, particularly during periods of drought or high temperatures. However once established it is reasonably drought tolerant. Avoid planting Sharon fruit trees in heavy soils or those soils which are prone to waterlogging.

The Sharon fruit is prone to root sucker. These should be removed unless a naturalized effect is desired.

For related article click onto the following links:
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HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM THE STRAWBERRY TREE - Arbutus unedo

How to take cuttings from the Strawberry tree - Arbutus unedo



While it is relatively easy to grow the Strawberry tree from seed it can take 2-3 years before you have a plant that is large enough to plant outside. A far quicker method is to take heel cuttings, 3-4 inches long of half ripened wood in July. Give the parent plant a good watering the night before and then take your cuttings early in the morning while it is still cool. Remove the cuttings with a sharp sterilized blade but only when you have your pots and equipment ready to use. If the cuttings are left lying around in the heat they will soon desiccate and failure will be guaranteed. If you have no choice but to hold on to your cuttings for a while before planting then keep them them wrapped in a moist paper towel and keep them in a cool position

How to take cuttings from the Strawberry tree - www.sisef.it/
Prepare new or sterilized 3 inch pots containing a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'. Alternatively you can mix your own compost using equal parts by volume - moss peat and sand. Dip the cut end of the cutting into a rooting hormone powder, tap off the excess and then using an appropriately sized dibber pre-drill a hole before placing the cutting into the compost. This stops the hormone powder being wiped off when inserting. Gently water and then place the pots into a heated propagator with a bottom heat of 16-18 degrees Celsius.

Once rooted, remove the propagator lid and turn of the heat. Move the young plant to a cold frame and leave for one or two years, potting on as necessary into larger pots containing a good quality compost such as John Innes 'No 2'. The young plants will be ready for transplanting outside into their final position the coming March to May.

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HOW TO GROW ARBUTUS UNEDO
HOW TO GROW THE STRAWBERRY TREE - Arbutus unedo
How to Grow the Strawberry Tree from Seed
HOW TO GROW THE VIRGINIA CREEPER FROM CUTTINGS
HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM ABUTILON
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How to Take Cuttings from Strawberry Plants
HOW TO PROPAGATE ABUTILON FROM CUTTINGS
HOW TO PROPAGATE BOX HEDGING PLANTS
HOW TO TAKE CHRYSANTHEMUM CUTTINGS
HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM CAMELLIA
HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM CLEMATIS
HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM FUCHSIA
HOW TO TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM THE STRAWBERRY TREE - Arbutus unedo
How to Take Hardwood Cuttings
THE AFRICAN TULIP TREE - Spathodea campanulata

Main image licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license - Lucarelli.

THE PERFECT FISH FINGER BREAKFAST SANDWICH RECIPE


The fish finger breakfast sandwich is not only a miracle of nutritional engineering, it is a meal in itself. It is more satisfying than a bacon sandwich and surprisingly the flavours combine to make it superior to almost every other sandwich bar a double whopper with cheese.

It includes all the major food groups (so long as you are happy to ignore the fact that it doesn't contain all of the major food groups), and it can improve brain function*. More importantly it can cure almost all common ailments* and actually make you more attractive to the opposite sex, but only if the members of the opposite sex are attracted to fish breath. Did I mention that it is also suitable for vegetarians? Vegans need not bother reading any further.

The ingredients are specific otherwise you will loose the effect of the flavour combination.

4 x proper Cod fish fingers, not those naff fish fillet jobbies
2 x slices of soft, white, freshly made farmhouse bread
2 x large dollops of chunky tartar sauce, Asda extra special is one of the best
1 x egg
1 x enough cheese to cover 1 x slice of bread
3 x dobs of butter
3 x tablespoons of olive oil

Instructions

Place the olive oil and 1 x dob of butter into a frying pan and bring to heat. The reason for the butter/oil mix is that it will give a crispier coat to the fish fingers. Place the fish fingers into the pan and turn the heat down to almost low so that they are gently spitting. It takes about 15 minute to properly cook fish fingers, turn them over every five minutes.

While the fish fingers are cooking you can prepare the rest of the sandwich. Butter each slice of bread with its own dob of butter, then spread both slices with a decent coating of tartare sauce.

Now fry up the egg.

Position the cheese on one slice of bread and then add the fried egg. Now wait for the fish fingers to finish cooking.

Once cooked, add the fish fingers to the slice of bread which has the cheese and egg on it and then place the other slice of bread, tartar side down, on the fish fingers. Cut the sandwich in half and garnish with a sprig of parsley. Now enjoy the taste sensation that is the perfect fish finger breakfast sandwich.

Not fancy or tangy enough for you?

If you are feeling that your sandwich still requires a little something then I do have a recent upgrade that I have layered onto my recipe - a layer of sliced gurkins between the eggs and the fish fingers. So there you have it, the perfect fish finger breakfast sandwich.

* research has shown that the fish finger breakfast sandwich can not do these things, and is a misrepresentation of the facts. In fact, all facts and opinions presented in this article may be a bit wobbly.

For related articles click onto the following links:
RECIPE FOR TAGINES
SPAGHETTI BOLOGNESE RECIPE
THE PERFECT FISH FINGER BREAKFAST SANDWICH RECIPE

HARDY SPIDER LILIES

Hardy Soider lilies - http://photos.linternaute.com/


Spider lilies are a group of gorgeous, ornamental flowering bulbs from the Hymenocallis genus. They are mostly from the tropical or subtropical Americas, which means that on the whole they are not hardy enough to be a permanent fixture in the far cooler, northern European gardens. Of course you can grow them as a protected crop and keep them in a frost-free environment over-winter but this involves growing them in pots and bringing them in and out of glasshouse conditions as the seasons dictate.

Hardy Soider lilies - http://www.mtcubacenter.org/
However there are two spider lilies that are just hardy enough to leave outside all-year-round just so long as you can provide a suitably warm and sheltered position.

The first is the North American species Hymenocallis occidentalis which is found as far north as southwestern Indiana where winters can reach temperatures as low as −18 °C. Hymenocallis occidentalis will bloom late in the summer and depending both the plant and its growing conditions the leaves can either be absent or present at bloom time.

The second is a hybrid between Hymenocallis calathina and Elisena longipetala known as Hymenocallis x festalis. This particular cultivar can be planted outside in sheltered parts of south and western England, but it must still be protected against frosts.

Plant each bulb about 5 inches deep and 12 inches apart. Like regular spider lilies they will need good drainage and will grow well in a soil rich with organic matter mixed well in. It is also worth adding a controlled release fertiliser such as osmocote to the immediate soil before planting. Both examples prefer a sunny position, but they will tolerate a certain amount of shade around midday.

During the growing season keep the soil on the moist side and feed with a water soluble fertiliser every 710 days.

For related articles click onto the following links:
DRACUNCULUS VULGARIS - The Dragonlily
Hardy Spider Lilies
HOW TO GROW CANNA LILIES
How to Grow Spider Lilies
MADONNA LILY - Lilium candidum
SPIDER LILY - Hymenocallis species and cultivars
THE BLACK LILY - Lilium 'Landini'
THE GIANT HIMALAYAN LILY - Cardiocrinum giganteum
THE GLORY LILY - Gloriosa rothschildiana
The Golden Foxtail lily - Eremurus bungei
The Hardy Spider Lily
The Stargazer Lily

SPIDER LILY - Hymenocallis species and cultivars

Spider lily - Hymenocallis species and cultivars



Spider lilies are a group of some 60 plants from the Hymenocallis genus. The 'Spider' part of its rather unusual common name refers to the curious shape of the flowers which consist of six narrow, curved petals attached to a shallow cup that is formed from the fused stamens. The scented flowers are somewhat daffodile-like.

Spider lily - Hymenocallis species and cultivars
Native to tropical and subtropical America, spider lilies are herbaceous bulbous perennials whose natural habitats include grasslands, wetlands and rocky outcrops. Unfortunately, for those of us who live in northern European climates most Hymenocallis species and cultivars will need to be grown in a warm greenhouse or in a sheltered sunny spot where the ground doesn't freeze. There is one species however that will tolerate colder climates and that is the North American species Hymenocallis occidentalis. This particular species is found as far north as southwestern Indiana where winters can reach temperatures as low as −18 °C. The hybrid Hymenocallis x festalis (a cross between Hymenocallis calathina and Elisena longipetala) can also be planted outside in sheltered parts of south and western England, but it must still be protected against frosts.

Pre-packed bulbs are purchased in the autumn onwards and should be planted from November to January. They like good drainage and will grow well in a soil rich with organic matter. For those of us who are trying to grow spider lilies in a cooler, northern European climate then in all fairness you will be better off growing them in pots so that they can be bought in under protection over the winter.

Plant them into 6-8 inch pots using a good quality potting compost such as John Innes 'No2'. The neck of each bulb should be just above the surface of the compost.

For related articles click onto the following links:
Hardy Spider Lilies
HOW TO GROW CANNA LILIES
HOW TO GROW THE SEA DAFFODIL
How to Grow Spider Lilies
JAPANESE PAINTED FERNS - Athyrium niponicum cultivars
SPIDER LILY - Hymenocallis species and cultivars
THE BLACK LILY - Lilium 'Landini'
THE CANNA LILY
THE GIANT HIMALAYAN LILY - Cardiocrinum giganteum
THE GLORY LILY - Gloriosa rothschildiana
The Golden Foxtail lily - Eremurus bungei
The Hardy Spider Lily
THE SEA DAFFODIL - Pancratium maritimum
The Stargazer Lily

PASSIFLORA x 'SILLY COW'

Passiflora x 'Silly Cow' on the walls of the Laboratory building at RHS Wisley

Passiflora x 'Silly Cow' is a recently introduced hybrid from well-known passion flower breeder Myles Irvine. Named in honour of his friend Jana-Marie Štípská', the words 'Silly Cow' in this instance are used a term of endearment rather than a derogatory comment. While it is always an honour to have a new species or hybrid named after you I am not so sure that I would admit to this one.

Growing both in my garden, I can say that my own 'Silly Cow' specimen starting flowering a good month later than the regular Passiflora caerulea, and only then sporadically, usually three or four blooms every couple of days. Each flower only lasts a day and while the flowers are indeed superior to P. caerulea, the lack of blooms means that it does not perform as well. Even though insect pollinators visited the blooms no fruits were set.

A regular Passiflora caerulea
Sadly stock of this gorgeous hybrid is few and far between, in fact I am only aware of two nurseries who can supply Passiflora x 'Silly Cow'. However as a specimen climber it is definitely one to consider. It is vigorous in growth and extremely floriferous, with 5 inch wide blooms emerging with a vengeance in June followed by a constant few until November. What really sets this cultivar apart is the pronounced navy-blue corona filaments which look almost jet black from a distance. To the artistically minded, they can take on the appearance of large, dilated eyes staring back at you.

While the parentage of Passiflora x 'Silly Cow' appears to be a closely guarded secret you can't deny that it looks like a Passiflora caerulea on steroids, which is kind of what it is.

While regular species of passionflower contain two sets of chromosomes, Passiflora x 'Silly Cow' is listed as being a polyploid complex. This means that it is a hybrid of interrelated and inter-breeding plants with chromosomes numbering more than 2 per cell.

Polyploid plants tend to be sterile which would explain why Passiflora.'Silly Cow' rarely sets fruit. Be that as it may the plant itself is as tough as old boots able to withstand winter temperature down to -8 degrees Celsius.

Grow Passiflora x 'Silly Cow' outside on a sheltered, south or west warm wall. The top growth can be damaged by seasonal frosts, but new stem will arise from older wood in the spring. It can be grown in any ordinary, well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. In colder areas of northern Europe it may be worth protecting Passiflora x 'Silly Cow' with brushwood or polythene sheeting for the first year or two until it becomes established.

In February or March, thin out any overgrown vines back to ground level or to a main stem. Spur back lateral shoots to 6 inches at the same time.

COLD HARDY PLANTS WITH GIANT LEAVES

Cold hardy plants with giant leaves




If you live in a northern European climate but desire the escapism of a tropical effect garden then one of the key factors required to create this illusion is the usage of large leaved plants. Living as I do in the south of England I am blessed with a slightly milder climate than the norm for Great Britain, however I have seen successful tropical effect gardens as far north as the midlands. The secret to this is to create a microclimate, the details for which will need to be pursued in another article.

I have created a list that comprises of the largest leaved plants that can be grown in Great Britain, as well as a couple of less hardy that will need to be treated as annuals and a few that just incredibly evocative of the tropics.

Gunnera manicata
Gunnera manicata

This is the largest leaved plant that you can possibly grow in Great Britain. Native to South America from Colombia, the leaves of the giant ornamental rhubarb can grow as large as 11 ft in diameter given a wet summer.

The underside of the leaf (including the stalk) is covered in spikes. In early summer it bears tiny red-green flowers in conical branched panicles, followed by small, spherical fruit. However, if you allow the rather ugly flower spike to bloom the gunnera will stop producing leave until flowering is over. Removal of the flower spike at an early age will ensure further leaf production.

Tetrapanax rex
Tetrapanax rex

Not as well known as the Gunnera and prone to suckering, Tetrapanax rex. Native to Taiwan, it is undoubtedly one of the most architectural, hardy, exotic plants possible to grow here in the U.K.

In milder regions it can be almost be considered evergreen but further north it will need to be treated as a deciduous shrub, hardy in most regions. In particularly cold areas it is worth protecting the trunk in winter with straw or fleece.

Paulownia tomentosa
Paulownia tomentosa

Now this one is a bit of a cheat as the leaves of the Paulownia tomentosa are only about 16 inches across. However the young growth of Paulownia tomentosa (otherwise known as the foxglove tree) exhibits uncharacteristically large leaves and this can be exploited by pollarding the tree and ensuring there is vigorous new growth every year.

Using this technique, massive leaves are produced which can be as large as 30 inches across.

Giant Hostas
Giant Hostas

Hosta are well known for their large heart-shaped leaves and come in such a large variety of sizes and colour forms that there is one for almost every need. There are plenty of giant leaved hostas to choose from although they are rarely seen in your typical garden centre rare, however the largest leaved hosta ever introduced to commercial production is Hosta 'Empress Wu'.

This is a massive specimen with deeply-veined, dark powder blue leaves that can measure a rediculous 28" long by 25" wide! This extremely large hosta will grow up to 5' tall and 8' wide, but there are many other, slightly smaller forms that you can choose from.

Ligularia dentata
Ligularia dentata

Ligularia is an often overlooked genus of robust Old World herbaceous perennial plants which are native to damp habitats mostly in central and eastern Asia, although there are a few species from Europe.

They produce large round leaves as much as 12 inches wide , but will also produce rather stunning yellow or orange composite flower heads in the summer and autumn. Some of the most impressive examples are the purple leaves varieties such as Ligularia dentata 'Britt-Marie Crawford'

Fatsia japonica
Fatsia japonica

Fatsia japonica is a species of glossy-leaved, flowering plant native to southern Japan and South Korea. Suitable for both sun and shade, this evergreen shrub is a particularly handsome specimen that can grow up to 20ft tall, with stout, sparsely branched stems.

The leaves are eight-lobed and palmate and are also available in a number of stunning cultivars. perhaps the most exotic is the recent 'Spiders Web' introduction.

Trachycarpus fortunei
Trachycarpus fortunei

Commonly known as the Chusan palm, Trachycarpus fortunei is one of the hardiest true palms that can be grown in Great Britain. Native to central China, south to northern Burma and northern India. It is a fan palm with the leaves that can be as long as 75 inches! While slow growing, given enough time it will eventually reach a height of up to 60ft tall.

It is quite happy growing in cool, damp conditions and records have shown that individuals will tolerate temperatures as low as −27.5 °C. However, lower tolerance limits of −15 °C to −20 °C are cited for mature plants. Young plants are less hardy, and can be damaged by only −8 °C.

Butia capitata
Butia capitata

Also known as Jelly Palm, Butia capitata is notable as one of the hardiest feather palms, tolerating temperatures down to about −10 °C. It will grows to around 6 metres tall, sometimes larger, but in a slow and steady manner. It is easily identifiable by its feather palm pinnate leaves that arch inwards towards a thick stout trunk.

Native to South America, the name Jelly Palm relates to the edible fruit flesh which is fibrous, sweet and taste similar to apricots. The fruit is sometimes made into a sweet jellies and jams.

Chamaerops humilis
Chamaerops humilis

Known as the European fan palm, Chamaerops humilis is the only palm species native to continental Europe.  It is the northernmost naturally occurring palm in the world, eventually reaching 2–5 m tall. It is adapted to a Mediterranean climate with cool, moist winters and summer drought, and will even grow on poor, rocky soils.

It is one of the hardier palms available, able to tolerate temperatures down to about −12°C. It will grow even in climates where the summer temperatures are no higher than the low 20's C.

Dicksonia antarctica
Dicksonia antarctica

Dicksonia antarctica is a species of evergreen tree fern native to parts of Australia and Tasmania. They can grow to 50 ft tall in their natural habitat, but in northern European gardens you can expect around 15–20 ft. They are extremely slow growing at a rate of 3 to 5 cm per year, and only then if they are kept in optimum condition. With this in mind always purchase the largest specimens that you can afford.

They will do best on damp, sheltered woodland slopes and moist gullies, but so long as you can supply enough water they will grow anywhere including full sun.

Matteuccia struthiopteris
Matteuccia struthiopteris

There are plenty of large leaved ferns out there but the largest is the outrageously impressive shuttlecock fern - Matteuccia struthiopteris. Native to the temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere, it requires permanently moist, humus-rich soil in dappled shade.

The deciduous green fronds are almost vertical, growing up to 70 inches tall. They are long-tapering to the base but short-tapering to the tip, so that they resemble ostrich plumes, hence their other common name of ostrich fern.

Echium pininana
Echium pininana

Commonly known as the Tree Echium, Echium pininana is a biennial or triennial plant, native to La Palma in the Canary Islands. Its natural habitat are laurel forests, where it is now endangered through habitat loss. It is surprisingly hardy and produces one of the world's largest flower spikes reaching an over height of between 4-5 metres. It outrageous size now means that is becoming a common sight in the gardens of Britain and Ireland.

Be aware that they are susceptible to wind damage so a sheltered garden position is essential. To be on the safe side employ a sturdy stake once they exceed 2 meters in height.

Eriobotrya japonica
Eriobotrya japonica

Commonly known as the loquat, Eriobotrya japonica is a species of flowering plant native to south-central China. It is a large evergreen shrub or small tree grown for its ornamental habit and large glossy leaves. It is also produced commercially for its yellow fruit.

The leaves are between 4–10 inches long, dark green, tough and leathery in texture, with a serrated margin. They also have a coat of dense, velvety hairs on the underside of each leaf. The young leaves are also densely hairy on the upper surface, but this soon rubs off.

Ficus carica
Ficus carica

You will know Ficus carica better as the common fig. Native to the Middle East and western Asia, is widely grown throughout the temperate world, both for its fruit and as an ornamental plant. It is a large deciduous shrub with bold, deeply lobed leaves.

It grows wild in dry and sunny areas, with deep and fresh soil, and can reach a considerable size when mature forming a large dense shade tree. Not all Ficus carica varieties are hardy enough for outdoor cultivation in northern Europe but 'Brown Turkey' has proven itself to be a prolific and reliable variety.

It is a drought tolerant species once established and will require a position in full sun.

Hedera colchica 'sulphur heart'
Hedera colchica 'sulphur heart'

Hedera colchica is a species of ivy native to the Near and Middle East. It is commonly called Persian ivy and is an evergreen climbing plant growing to a height of 30 metres where suitable surfaces exist.

It is extremely tough and adaptable, preferring a well-drained or alkaline soils rich in nutrients and humus with good water provision. Like many climbing plants, it prefers its roots in cool shade with its stems in full sun.

Vitis coignetiae
Vitis coignetiae

Commonly known as the Crimson Glory Vine, Vitis coignetiae is native to the temperate climes of Asia, where it can be found in the Russian Far East, Korea and Japan. It is a very vigorous vine with purple shoots, but its most defining feature are its large, deciduous leaves which can be 12 inches or more in diameter and turn an attractive scarlet and crimson colour in autumn.

Vitis coignetiae is ideal for sun or partial shade in a well-drained soil, especially in a neutral or alkaline soil

Magnolia grandiflora
Magnolia grandiflora

Magnolia grandiflora, commonly known as the southern magnolia or bull bay, is a medium to large evergreen tree which can grow up to 90 ft tall. Native to the southeastern United States it is a large specimen with large dark green leaves up to 8 inches long and 4.5 inches wide and large white fragrant flowers up to 12 inches in diameter.

The leaves are dark green, stiff and leathery, and often have a yellow-brown pubescence underneath.

Grow Magnolia grandiflora in moist, well-drained preferably neutral to acid soil in sun or part shade. Unlike many other magnolia species it will tolerates dry, alkaline soil.

Musa basjoo
Musa basjoo

Musa basjoo is a hardy species of banana native to southern China. It is a herbaceous perennial with a trunk-like pseudostem and can grow to an overall height of around 20 ft tall. It produces a crown of mid-green leaves which can grow up to 7 ft long and 30 inches wide when mature.

Although the pseudostem can only cope with a few degrees below freezing, the root system is considered cold hardy. If it is well insulated with a thick mulch, it can tolerate temperatures down to −12 °Celsius. If the pseudostem is killed, the plant is not dead as the banana will resprout from the ground and can rapidly grows to full size in a single season under optimal conditions.

Protection from strong winds will prevent tearing of the potentially massive leaves.

Musa sikkimensis
Musa sikkimensis

Also called the Darjeeling Banana, Musa sikkimensis is a native to Bhutan and India and is one of the highest altitude growing banana species.

It is a robust specimen growing to about 4 m tall with a yellowish-green foliage and reddish tinged pseudostem. Its is one of the most ornamental of the banana family and second only in hardiness to Musa basjoo. Water well during the summer months and provide plenty of well-rotted garden compost or farmyard manure.

Zantedeschia aethiopica
Zantedeschia aethiopica 'Crowborough'

Zantedeschia aethiopica is a deciduous perennial (evergreen in mild areas) that grows to 1m in height, with rich green, arrow-shaped leaves.

Native to southern Africa in Lesotho, South Africa, and Swaziland, it is usually found growing in streams and ponds or on the banks. It grows to 2–3 ft tall, with large clumps of broad, arrow shaped dark green leaves up to 18 inches long. Plant in full sun.

For related article click onto the following links:
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HARDY PALM TREES FOR GROWING IN COLD CLIMATES
HEDERA CANARIENSIS 'GLOIRE DE MARENGO'
HEDERA COLCHICA 'Sulphur Heart'
HOW TO GROW FATSIA JAPONICA
HOW TO GROW GUNNERA MANICATA
HOW TO GROW HEDERA CANARIENSIS 'GLOIRE DE MARENGO'
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HOW TO PROPAGATE GUNNERA MANICATA
MAGNOLIA X soulangeana
MUSA LASIOCARPA - The Chinese dwarf banana
PERSICARIA VIRGINIANA
RAFFLESIA ARNOLDII
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THE DARJEELING BANANA - Musa sikkimensis
THE FOXGLOVE TREE
THE RED ABYSSINIAN BANANA - Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelii’
WHAT IS THE WORLD'S LARGEST LEAF?