Showing posts with label ranked 1. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ranked 1. Show all posts

LAWN MOWERS MAKETH THE LAWN

Lawn mowers maketh the lawn
Most people who own a house will own a garden by default, and with spring just around the corner it will soon be time to break into the shed and dust down those old tools and garden machinery. While odd jobs will present themselves throughout the year, you'll know that the growing season is truly upon you when the lawn is ready for its first cut.

Now this can be a critical time for the lawn. Even though the grass itself would have been slowly growing throughout most of the winter the lawn can be waterlogged, covered in worm casts and/or leaves and generally in a poor condition. So before that first cut is made there are a few tips that will help to prevent any further damage.

To begin with, choose a dry day and rake up any dead leaves or surface debris on the lawn. Next, try to flatten any new bumps and depressions in the lawn to prevent scalping of the turf with the lawn mower.

If you have a lot of weed or thatch in the lawn then go over it once with a spring-tine rake to remove it. Don't be tempted to remove all of it this early on in the season as you may end up taking out a large amount of grass too!

You only want to just trim the tops of the grass on the first cut so don't set the lawn mower blades too low. If you cut off too much then any subsequent frosts can damage the grass further.

Of course, once you have removed your lawn mower from its winter rest you may well find that it is in no condition to do the job anyway and that will leave you two simple choices. Either send your mower away for a service or replace it altogether with a more reliable model.

There are plenty of cheap lawn mowers on the market today, but unless you are perfectly happy to have yours replaced every year or so you are better off purchasing a quality model in the first place and saving yourself a load of heartache and perhaps more importantly, time and money. Of course the choice is huge and with so many makes and variations on the market where on earth do you start?

Firstly there are two methods of propulsion - petrol driven or electric, and your practical choice will depend on the size of your lawn. Put simply, the advantage of a petrol machine is that you can venture far beyond the reach of an electric cable! Cylinder mowers will give you a better quality of cut than a rotary mower, and are ideal for high profile and fine turf areas. However, if your lawn is bumpy or the grass sward is not so fine then a rotary mower is ideal for you.

The more expensive mowers will be hydraulically run which will give you better control of the machine, and have the advantage of self-propulsion which is a must on large lawn areas. Some machines will offer you a wider cutting width, whilst others will have larger rollers which will help to maintain those 'all important' stripes on flat areas.

Just make sure you do your research first as buying the wrong mower can end up as an expensive mistake!

For related articles click onto the following links:
HAS ARTIFICIAL GRASS FINALLY COME OF AGE?
HOW TO CONTROL WEEDS IN THE LAWN
HOW TO GET RID OF BIRD'S FOOT TREFOIL IN LAWNS
HOW TO GET RID OF BROWN PATCHES IN YOUR LAWN
HOW TO GET RID OF CLOVER IN LAWNS
HOW TO GET RID OF MOSS IN LAWNS
HOW TO GROW A LAWN FROM SEED
HOW TO IMPROVE DRAINAGE IN LAWNS
WHY SCARIFY A LAWN

BUY GOLDEN COURGETTE SEED - Courgette 'Goldmine'

Buy golden courgette seed - Courgette 'Goldmine'



If you are looking to purchase Courgette 'Goldmine' seeds then you are in luck. As a new introduction for 2014 availability is limited, but the 'Seeds of Eaden' seed shop is able to supply and dispatch Courgette 'Goldmine' seed immediately.

http://www.seedsofeaden.co.uk/
While all seed prices are listed in pounds Sterling (GBP), all major currencies are accepted at the checkout. Visa, Maestro, MasterCard, and JCB cards are also accepted along with Paypal should you prefer.
Worldwide delivery is also available at no extra cost although there are a few countries that have trade agreements that prevent us from dispatching to them. See terms and conditions for details.

Courgette 'Goldmine' F1 Hybrid is an exceptional British bred cultivar. It is fully parthenocarpic (seedless) and offers increased yields and reliability in poor summers.

Sow Courgette 'Goldmine' seed indoors (4 weeks before the expected last frost) 3/4 inch deep in 3 inch pots containing a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'.

Courgette 'Goldmine' seedlings
Place the pots either in a propagator or seal inside a polythene bag and keep at 21-25 degree Celsius. Germination will take 5-7 days after which point they can be taken out of the propagator or sealed polythene bag.

Gradually acclimatise the seedlings to outdoor conditions for 10-15 days before planting out into their final position. Because of the large size attained by courgette they will need to be planted between 24 and 36 inches apart.

Courgette 'Goldmine' seed can also be sown direct outdoors from mid-May once the soil has warmed and risk of frost has passed, 1 inch deep at 24 inches apart in rows 24 inches apart.

For related articles click onto the following links:
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HOW TO CONTROL POWDERY MILDEW ON COURGETTES
HOW TO GROW COURGETTES FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW COURGETTES IN CONTAINERS
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HOW TO GROW ZUCCHINI IN POTS
HOW TO SOW AND GROW ZUCCHINI FROM SEED INDOORS

HOW TO CARE FOR INSECT EATING BIRDS OVER WINTER

How to care for insect eating birds over winter
WANT TO BUY RARE AND UNUSUAL SEEDS? THEN CLICK HERE FOR THE 'SEEDS OF EADEN' SEED SHOP

These are bleak times for our native wildlife. Each year the struggle to survive becomes increasingly difficult as mounting odds continue to stack up against them. Over the past 70 years, changes in our farming practices have reduced their natural habitats drastically and Britain’s once abundant sources of food for over-wintering species have become ever more depleted. The question is this – are you prepared to tolerate a minimum level of insect damage on your edible and ornamental crops, or would you rather see a continual decline in our native wildlife until we start to see the reality of extinction.

It’s all about trying to keep a balance. You can’t complain about caterpillars eating your cabbages, and then lament about the loss of butterfly’s once commonplace in your childhood. If you want to truly witness the damaged caused to our environment through over half a century of insecticide and molluscicide (slug killing) use, look to their top predators, the birds. If we can change our gardening practices to such a point that the populations of insect and mollusc eating birds decline no further then we would have already achieved something worthwhile.

How to care for insect eating birds over winter
This isn't about feeding the birds with ever more fancy nuts and berry recipes, or how fancy your ceramic topped seed and nut feeder is because the birds that are attracted to this type of food are not the ones in danger. In fact, populations of seed and nut eating birds have never been better; while the insect eating birds are suffering their worst declines on record.

The key here is not to subsidise insect eating birds with non-indigenous grubs bought from your local pet shop, it’s about protecting and developing sustainable levels of our native insect species so that the birds can feed themselves throughout the year. In many people's minds insects are the enemy, and while it's true that certain varieties will make your roses look a bit untidy, if you are prepared to work with nature you can always attract the beneficial insects that feed on them.

The most important thing that we can do in our gardens is to stop using blanket insecticides that will kill anything and everything. Chemicals such as brand Provado contain the active ingredient imidacloprid, and although predominantly marketed as a vine weevil killer it will kill most insects that ingest it. What makes it worse is that it can remain active within the plant for up to three months at a time on a single application.

How to care for insect eating birds over winter
However, when applied as a soil drench Provado 'Vine weevil Killer 2' becomes an even bigger threat by remaining viable within the plant for up to four months. Slug pellets, which usually contain the active ingredient of metaldehyde, are just as bad with its active ingredient moving up through the food chain as predators digest poisoned slugs and snails. Although there are no figures for the death of native birds, reptiles and mammals through metaldehyde poisoning, the population of every native creature that eats molluscs as part of their diet is either in decline, in serious decline or near to extinction.

If you insist on using insecticide then at least try and stop before the autumn comes, bearing in mind that most of the plants you will be spraying will soon be dropping their leaves anyway. The insects that are causing the small amount of damage at this time of year are the same once that the birds are fattening up on in order to survive the oncoming winter. During the late autumn your visiting birds will be feeding on all kinds of garden pests, be they snails, slugs or aphids so given the chance they can be a great help to the garden. Depriving them of their last ‘harvest’ will guarantee fewer birds returning next year.

How to care for insect eating birds over winter
To help build up insects populations in your garden is relatively easy and can be dealt with in a number of ways. The most obvious is to practice organic methods which will at least stop the local destruction of insects, but it’s just as important to create the natural habitats that will support insects through each stage of their life cycles. Planting schemes are vitally important as these can be designed to include a suitable range of plants that can supply nectar throughout the year. Without these, bee, butterflies and other pollinating insects will struggle as they use the nectar as their main source of energy. The winter is the most difficult time of the year as there are only a few native plants in flower. Consider planting winter flowering heathers, Daphne mezereum and odora, Viburnum bodnantense and Viburnum tinus, and Mahonia ‘Charity’. In autumn plant Mahonia x media, aquifolium and japonica varieties. Not only will they produce flowers and valuable nectar in late autumn, they will also provide berries from winter through to early spring as food for other bird species. If it's berry eating bird you want to encourage then you can't go wrong with planting Cotoneaster, Pyracantha and the mature form of Hedera helix.

How to care for insect eating birds over winter
If you are considering planting up a hedge, one of the best to choose foe the wildlife gardener is the wild dog rose - Rosa rugosa. Not only is this plant known to be able to support over 200 different species of insect, its dense thorny framework of branches also make it ideal for nesting in.

Wildlife ponds planted with native aquatic plants are a great environment for creating new insect life while log piles are not only valuable for over-wintering insect larvae and adults. They also provide sought after protection for native lizards, amphibians and smaller mammals like hedgehogs and voles.

The reasons why our native insect eating birds are in decline are well documented, but then so are the steps that need to be taken to help reverse them. What needs to happen now is for the country's population to look at their gardens and open spaces and work them with a different ethic in mind. An ethic that doesn't strive for an unnatural pursuit of perfection, but one that benefits not only ourselves but nature at large. If we continue to ignore our place in the environment – particularly as we are now top of the food chain - then it is only a matter of time before the human population goes into decline

For further information click onto:

SCHOMBURGKIA EXALTATA

Schomburgkia exaltata


Schomburgkia exaltata (now reclassified as Myrmecophila exaltata) is one of the most beautiful of all the flowering orchids. Delicate in both structure and colouration, it is indeed worthy of the pseudonym the 'Snowflake Flower'. Unfortunately, as gorgeous as it is, Schomburgkia exaltata is a relatively recent introduction and as such very little is known about it.

Schomburgkia exaltata
The genus is named after Dr Richard Schomburgk, a German botanist who explored British Guiana during the 19th century. While he did not discover Schomburgkia exaltata, he did discover the type species, S. crispa and S. marginata. The genus name is currently under debate, and while the name Schomburgkia is the one most commonly used it has been superseded by the current name of Myrmecophila.

Species in this genus are either epiphytic (a plant that grows non-parasitically upon another plant) or lithophytic (plants which grow in or on rocks) in their growth habit.

Schomburgkia exaltata was discovered by Friedrich Wilhelm Ludwig Kraenzlin in 1926. Its native habitat is found along the Caribbean coasts of Guatemala, Honduras and Mexico in the low mountain forests and scrublands. It is a large, robust epiphyte that require the high temperatures of the tropics to perform. While it has short ribbed pseudobulbs no longer than a foot in height, the terminal flower raceme can reach two meters in height and carry up to 80 flowers. The species name 'exaltada' refers to this tall flower raceme and its ability to carry its flowers well above the surrounding plants.

Note. The Common name 'Snowflake Flower' was first coined by myself due to the striking resemblance of the flower structure to a snowflake. My apologies to anyone who feels that this name is not appropriate. To those I will use the case of the Black Hellebore as my argument. Do not forget that snow does not actually have any colour pigmentation - unless it is yellow!

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HOW TO GROW THE HYACINTH ORCHID - Bletilla striata
HOW TO FEED ORCHIDS
HOW TO REPOT AN ORCHID
HOW TO WATER ORCHIDS
MONKEY FACE ORCHIDS
SCHOMBURGKIA EXALTATA
THE SILVER VASE PLANT - Aechmea fasciata
THE ANGEL ORCHID
THE BEE ORCHIDS
THE BUTTERFLY ORCHID - Psychopsis papilio
THE FLYING DUCK ORCHID

COCONUT CRAB - THE INCREDIBLE FACTS




There is no denying that the coconut crab - Birgus latro, is a highly impressive (if not rather scary) member of the arthropod family. They live on islands or larger landmasses in the Indian Ocean and the central Pacific Ocean, and predictably their distribution closely matches that of the coconut palm.

Coconut crab - Brocken Inaglory
Discovered around 1688 by western scientists since the voyages of William Dampier (first Englishman to explore parts of Australia, and the first person to circumnavigate the world three times), the Coconut crab populations in several areas has now declined or become locally extinct due to habitat loss and human predation. In 1981, it was listed on the IUCN Red List as a vulnerable species and now conservation management strategies have been put in place in some, but not all regions.

Unfortunately, due to a lack of biological data it is difficult to asses the true state of Coconut crab populations, but with research still being undertaken we are learning more as each year passes. It stands to reason that the more we know about the Coconut crab the more we can do to ensure that these incredible creatures not only survive but thrive.

These are just some of the amazing facts that have been found out so far:

1. The coconut crab is a species of terrestrial hermit crab. So adapted are they for living on dry land that they cannot swim, and will drown if immersed in water for long. Be that as it may, they haven't completely left their watery heritage behind,. While mating occurs on dry land, the females need to migrate to the sea to release their fertilised eggs as they hatch.

Coconut crab - Fearless Rich
2. The coconut crab is also known as the robber crab or palm thief, and is the largest land-living arthropod in the world! It is also believed to be at the upper size limit for terrestrial animals with exoskeletons in recent Earth atmosphere

3. Not only is the Coconut crab larger than life, so is their lifespan. A fully grown adult can live for over 60 years.

4. Adult coconut crabs not only feed on fruits, nuts, seeds, and the pith of fallen trees, they will also consume other organic materials such as tortoise hatchlings and dead animals. Surprisingly, one coconut crab was observed killing and eating a Polynesian Rat!

 While this species is clearly associated with coconuts they are not a significant part of their diet. However the coconut crab is more than capable of climbing trees to pick coconuts, which it then opens to eat the flesh.

5. Adult coconut crabs have no known predators besides larger coconut crabs. Unfortunately, due to its huge size and quality of its meat it is extensively hunted for food by man and is now rare on islands with a human population. It is considered to be both a delicacy and an aphrodisiac, and intensive hunting has threatened the species' survival in some areas.

Brocken Inaglory image is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported, 2.5 Generic, 2.0 Generic and 1.0 Generic license.

Fearless Rich  image is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license.

For related articles click onto the following links:
COCONUT CRAB - THE INCREDIBLE FACTS
Rainbow Stag beetle - Phalacrognathus muelleri

THE 'SEEDS OF EADEN' - THE WORLD'S GREATEST ONLINE SEED SHOP



After much anticipation the 'Seeds of Eaden' seed shop is finally open. In order to experience what is my opinion 'The World's Greatest online Seed Shop' you can click onto the following link.

SEEDS OF EADEN

All seeds are available for international delivery (conditions apply) and payments can be made in all major currencies.

The 'Seeds of Eaden' web-based seed shop is the latest addition to the Eaden family of on-line, horticultural resources.

The 'Seeds of Eaden' seed shop supplies the very best range of high quality, tried and tested seeds. We also aim, wherever possible, to include the history and stories behind the plants.

Along with concise cultivation details, we hope to create a comprehensive plant database of available seed stock for gardeners and horticulturists alike.

Where appropriate we have selected plant species and their cultivars which have either been thoroughly trialled for their suitability or have received the coveted Award of Garden Merit (AGM) from the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS).

The Award of Garden Merit  is intended to be of practical value to the home gardener. It is awarded therefore only to plants that have met the following criteria:

* Excellent for ordinary use in appropriate conditions.
* Good availability.
* Proven to be of good constitution.
* Stable in form and colour.
* Reasonably resistant to pests and diseases.

If you have any queries or problems then please do not hesitate to contact me at gardenofeaden@gmail.com or by using the comments below.

Happy shopping and don't forget to share this post with all your friends.

The 'Seeds of Eaden' - The World's Greatest On-line Seeds Shop

DICENTRA CUCULLARIA - Dutchman's Breeches

Dicentra cucullaria






Dicentra cucullaria is one of only 20 species of hardy herbaceous perennials from within the Dicentra genus. It is a graceful plant which produces arching sprays of pendulous, pure white, yellow tipped flowers in May and June.

It is a native to the woods of eastern North America, with isolated populations in the Columbia River Basin. These western populations have sometimes been separated under the different name of Dicentra occidentalis, because they display coarser growth.

Dicentra cucullaria - http://www.edpostphotography.com/
It grows to a height of around 6 inches but produces its 1 inch long flowers on flower stalks up to 14 inches long.

Its has a couple of common names, notably 'Dutchman's Breeches', but the most appropriate is the 'Falling Angel' which reflects the bi-lobed, wing shaped flower. With a little imagination they really do look like upside-down angels falling to earth.

Interestingly, the 'Falling Angel' has an unusual and 'less than angelic' way of propagation by seed. The seeds are spread by ants, in a process called known as myrmecochory. Each seed is contained within a fleshy organ, known as an elaiosome, which is attractive to ants. The ants collect the seeds and taken to their nest. They eat the elaiosomes, and afterwards remove the seeds which are taken and deposited in their nest debris. Here they are protected from being eaten until they germinate. They also get a head start by growing in a convenient 'compost medium' made rich by the nest debris.

For related articles click onto the following links:
CEROPEGIA AMPLIATA - The Bushman's Pipe
DICENTRA CUCULLARIA - The Falling Angel Flower
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HOW TO GROW THE BUSHMAN'S PIPE - ceropegia ampliata
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THE LADY IN THE BATH FLOWER

THE BRIGHT FUTURE OF GARDEN BUILDINGS

Garden buildings



Garden buildings are often seen as the preserve of wealthy landowners but the reality is somewhat different. Even the humble shed can be considered as a garden building, but while that may not set most people’s imagination on fire there are plenty more substantial offerings that will.

Quality and construction have both come a long way in recent years. This has meant that garden buildings are no longer just suitable for keeping the weather off of your tools and furniture, they are built to an extremely high quality making them robust, long lasting and adaptable. This is leading to something of a mini revolution in construction, design and the use of modern materials.

Garden buildings
We have seen the emergence of children's playhouses progress from simple modified sheds to large scale purpose built miniature houses. Whilst the prices of such luxurious toys may be out of reach to many of us, the cost of a full-sized, full-blown summerhouse or log cabin can be surprisingly inexpensive by comparison. In fact, with the added investment of electric, plumbing and drainage you can create a spacious office or a 'home from home' for the fraction of the cost of a mobile office or brick built extension!

However for some ordering a cabin from a catalogue does not have the exclusivity they seek. But that doesn't mean there is no other choice.

Given the space, planning permission and appropriate budget and you can go as far as building a fully stocked gym with changing rooms, conference halls or even a small scale education facility! Just make sure you get permission from your husband or wife first before you start signing the cheques.

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CLEMATIS CIRRHOSA species and cultivars

Clematis cirrhosa



Clematis cirrhosa is an exquisite, evergreen climber that is native to the the sun-kissed lands of the Mediterranean. It was originally introduced to England from the Balearic Islands (found off the southern coast of Spain) in 1783.

Clematis cirrhosa
There is a specific variety of Clematis cirrhosa that is indigenous to the Balearic islands - Clematis cirrhosa var. balearica. Commonly called the Fern-leaved Clematis, this attractive and valuable species can be found on Majorca, Minorca, Corsica and Sardinia, growing along roadsides and in scrub. This particular variety produces pale yellow, spotted reddish-purple flowers throughout the winter.

Clematis cirrhosa has a habit of throwing out different colour variations in its flowers that can range from pure white or cream to those which are lightly speckled with red inside and occasionally some which are so heavily painted in red that the stain shows through to the backs of the petals.

These variations are clear in the named forms of 'Jingle Bells' (pure white with no spots); 'Wisley Cream' (creamy white, sometimes tinted green); 'Ourika Valley' (a prolific pale yellow); 'Freckles' (cream with bold red markings); 'Lansdowne Gem' (almost completely red); as well as var. balearica (creamy white, with a scattering of dainty reddish-brown speckles).

Clematis cirrhosa
Like all early-flowering clematis, it requires little pruning other than the removal of any dead or damaged growth after flowering. If you are growing it in a northern European climate then you will need to provide a warm, sheltered position to encourage it to flower well. It prefers full sun and will thrive in any fertile, well-drained soil.

When planting pot grown plants, plant with the crown 2–3 inches deeper than the soil surface to encourage shoots to grow from below ground level. In colder, more northern regions you may need to grow Clematis cirrhosa in a container and overwinter in a greenhouse or conservatory

But this isn't just a plant to be appreciated by gardeners, the local wildlife will benefit too! Finches will feed on the seeds themselves, while other birds will use the fluffy seed heads as nesting material in the spring. Perhaps more importantly the flowers provide early season nectar for foraging insects

For related articles click onto the following links:
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THE STARFISH FLOWER - Stapelia flavopurpurea

THE STARFISH FLOWER - Stapelia flavopurpurea





The Starfish flower - Stapelia flavopurpurea is one of the plant kingdom's great oddities. Native to the regions of Namibia, Botswana and the Northern Cape of South Africa, it is a species of plant from the Apocynaceae family.

The most interesting feature of this species is it striking, starfish shaped flowers which are produced by the plant in summer or autumn, depending on the seasonal temperatures. They range from a bright yellow to greenish colour and have a fragrance reminiscent of liquorice. However, others believe it is more like beeswax!

THE STARFISH FLOWER - Stapelia flavopurpurea
The genus name 'Stapelia' was named after Johannes van Stapel, who published drawings and descriptions of the first Stapelia discovered - Orbea variegata. The species name 'flavopurpurea' derives from the Latin words 'flavus' meaning 'yellow' and 'purpureus' meaning 'purple.

The Starfish flower is not hardy and so if you are growing it in northern Europe then you will need to keep under protection as you would a typical house plant. While it may look like a cactus it is in fact a perennial succulent. It can be grown in a standard cactus compost, in bright, filtered light, with low humidity. During the growing season it can be watered moderately and fed every two or three weeks with a balanced liquid feed. Keep almost dry in the winter but water sparingly occasionally to prevent the stems from wrinkling.

The Starfish flower is easily propagated by taking cuttings of stem sections after the plant has flowered, but allow cut surface to callous over before planting.

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The Starfish Flower - Stapelia flavopurpurea

THE SECRET TO HARD LANDSCAPING








If you are planning on designing a garden then hard landscaping is always going to be a key factor. In fact, without hard landscaping you would have no paths, walls, raised beds, fences nor almost any other feature.

Hard landscaping is essential to a garden as it gives you privacy, structure and functionality. It can make a small garden appear bigger whilst in a larger garden it can break up and define the space. Put simply, hard landscaping is the very bones of a gardens design. Get it right and you can create a paradise!

Sometimes hard landscaping is required out of necessity rather than for aesthetic reasons. These can include the building of a retaining wall to prevent soil movement, or to create a hard standing surface for car parking. Paths both protect lawns and lead you to areas of interest, whilst sloping gardens can be tamed with terracing.

Garden structures can add depth and interest to a garden, so design your garden to include space for outbuildings and seating.  Ponds and fountains can become a focal point, whilst pergolas and covered walkways can provide welcome shade. Driveways and slopes can often be difficult to get right and rather than tarmac (don't even consider concrete!), block paving can be laid to the exact dimensions giving a bespoke look and a very smart first impression.

You can improve the flow of a garden if you use similar materials throughout it. You can experiment with different patterns of brickwork which can be used in buildings, pathways or even raised planters.  Repeating small details can add your personality to your garden, and make it stand out from others. Paving materials such as cobbles, brick, railway sleepers, block paving and gravel can be used to define smaller areas within your garden. Experiment with colours and patterns to achieve a unique look.

But there is no need to settle for solely utilitarian materials because with a little thought you can add flair to these more mundane works. You can choose from the traditional such a brick, gravel, rock or stone, concrete, and timber, to the more modern such as heavy duty plastics and rubbers, bitumen, glass, and metals.

In fact if you can imagine it, then you can probably build it, just so long as your budget is a large as you imagination. Do your research, and not only can you enhance the look of your property, you can be adding thousands to its value. However if you are landscaping the front of your property then it is always best to try and fit in with the rest of the properties on your street otherwise you can risk losing value.

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THE SECRET TO HARD LANDSCAPING

HOW TO GROW SALVIA PATENS FROM SEED

Salvia patens



Salvia patens is undoubtedly one of the very best blue flowering plants. A native to the temperate and subtropical zones of Mexico, when you consider their late summer/early autumn flowering period there is little else that can compete with the richness of its colour. So good is it that both the species and its cultivar 'Cambridge blue' have gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.

Unfortunately, Salvia patens is frost tender and can only be grown outside in the very warmest regions of northern Europe. This means that it can be a difficult plant to source. However the seed from this gorgeous species is relatively easy to obtain, and as far as I am concerned well worth cultivating.

Salvia patens
Sow Salvia patens seed from February to March in pots, or trays containing a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'.

You will need to provide heat in order to help initiate germination so place the pots or trays into a heated propagator at approximately 18 degrees Celsius.

Do not exclude light as this helps germination, and keep the surface of the compost moist but not waterlogged. The newly germinated seedling should emerge from 14 to 30 days.

Prick out the seedlings once they are large enough to handle and pot on into individual 3 inch pots.

Gradually acclimatise to outdoor conditions for 10-15 days before planting out after all risk of frost had gone. If you are planting in groups, space 18 inches apart.

Cultivation

In the colder areas of northern Europe Salvia patens can only be considered as a half hardy annual, but in the warmer, southern regions it can be grown as a short lived perennial so long as they are planted in sheltered conditions.

It require a warm, sunny position, and to be on the safe side, plant out Salvia patens at the end of May, in ordinary, well-drained garden soil.

Pinch out the growing tips of young plants, once they reach 2-3 inches high, as this will encourage branching.

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SHEDS - NECESSARY EVIL OR GARDEN ENHANCER?

Fantastic sheds












Love them or hate them, sheds are an integral part of the garden. Cheekily, most garden designers conveniently forget to include them in their masterpieces in order to save spoiling their lines. But the fact of the matter is that gardens need maintenance; maintenance requires tools, and tools need to be housed!

Dr. Who inspired shed
Most people’s idea of a shed is of a rather shabby building hidden out the way in a dark corner of the garden. Of course that may fit your requirements exactly, but with a little imagination a shed can be an extremely practical and adaptable outdoor building. Get it right and it can also be a dramatic visual feature that not only enhances the garden but adds value to your property too!

If you already have a shed and feel a little embarrassed about it when friends come round, then a lick of paint and a few DIY planted containers could be all you need to clear your conscience. You could also consider to adding a fancier false roof if you are feeling particularly artistic! However, if you are starting from scratch then a little preparation and research can not only save you money it can pay out dividends; metaphorically speaking that is.

Concrete bases are better than wooden bases and as long as your shed isn't huge they are fairly simple to construct and worth having a go at yourself. 

Think about running a permanent electric point to your shed (there is nothing worse than trying to find tools at night with just the light of a cheap torch to guide you).  Once you have gone to the effort of digging out the trench for the armoured cable, it is worth asking yourself whether you want a water supply down there too?

Amazing garden buildings
You can always do what I have done and spend so much on a shed that after I put in the water, electric and drainage I decided to go the whole hog and have it carpeted and furnished too. Of course, once completed I ended up having to buy a second shed for the tools so that I didn't get the first shed untidy or dirty!

The cheapest sheds will be made to a price and probably clad in feather edge timber. They are great ways to store your garden items for minimal cost but for better weather proofing you can consider a shed constructed from tongue and groove. Log effect edging is going to be the most attractive of the three, but will also the most expensive for a standard shed. Of course you can spend as much as you like on a shed, but if you are looking for a little bit more from your garden building then you can always trade up to a log cabin!

My advice is this. Research first and never buy a shed without physically checking the build quality. That being said, you are generally going to find the largest selection and best prices on-line so once you are happy that you know what you are looking for then this is the place to go.

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HOW TO GROW THE SEA DAFFODIL

The sea daffodil




The sea daffodil is without doubt one of the most beautiful plants of the south-western Mediterranean. You can find it growing on the coastal sands or just above the high tide mark, and as its common name suggests, it is a genuine bulbous plant. However, despite appearances is not remotely related to the daffodil.

Sea daffodil blooms
Luckily for those us who wish to grow this gorgeous specimen in the garden then you can, so long as you try and mimic is natural environment as best as possible. It will require a very sunny position and a very well-drained, sandy soil. You can improve your soil by adding plenty of horticultural grit or grit-sand, but in cooler regions you may be better off growing it a pot.

The Sea Daffodil will needs a hot summer in order to induce flowering and is often a shy bloomer in cooler climates. Again, growing in a pot will provide a warmer root environment and will also make it easier to move around should it need the encouragement of a month or two in a greenhouse.

It is hardy to USDA zone 8, and surprisingly will tolerate temperatures down to about −5 °C (23 °F). However I would rather not take that risk myself and instead overwinter in a frost-free greenhouse.

How to grow the Sea Daffodil from seed

Sea daffodil seeds
As with many bulb species they can be propagation either by seeds or division after flowering. If you have collected your own seed they then will germinate quickly in just a few weeks.

You can sow them into either pure grit-sand or a good quality, well-drained compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting', with added horticultural grit, perlite or vermiculite for better drainage. If you can get it, mix in 30% volcanic grit and/or sand. Cover with a light dressing of compost and gently water. Place the seed in a bright position at between 15°C to maximum 22°C. Do not keep them any warmer as this can inhibit germination. Only water again once the compost has dried out.

They will not require a period of dormancy over the summer for the first 2 years but keep the seedlings more on the dry side. In the third year keep the young plants dry from June to mid-August.

Give them a half-diluted liquid feed once the leaves emerge and with a bit of luck your Sea Daffodil should flower in their third or fourth year.

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HOW TO GROW JAPANESE ONION SETS

Image credit - http://nigelburkin.wordpress.com/


Walk into any good plant retailer over the autumn and you should find amongst the tulips and daffodils a selection of Japanese onion sets.

Japanese onions are sometimes referred to as autumn planting onions and they are one and the same thing. These onion sets can be planted from late September up to early November and should produce fully grown onions in July and August. This will allow you to harvest onions a month or two before your normal crop of onions mature.

The other major difference between Japanese and regular onions is that Japanese onions do not store as well as well as spring sown onions. They will effectively store for about four weeks, but don't let that put you off as you can eat a lot of onions in four weeks, and besides, the tradeoff is well worth the earlier harvest.

But what is an onion set? An onion set is simply an onion which has not been allowed to grow to its full size. The growers of onion sets achieve this by planting onion seeds very close together. This results in the onions growing very small because they are so crowded.

Growing Japanese onion sets

Luckily for us, growing Japanese onion sets is exactly the same as growing regular onion sets, and is still probably the easiest way to produce a good crop of quality onions.
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You will need a site that is in full sun, with good drainage, and free of perennial weeds, but the key thing is to grow them in a permanent bed so that you can build on the soil fertility as the years go on.

Be aware that this can encourage the buildup of soil pests and diseases. Therefore, it is worth rotating your onion bed periodically with the rest of the vegetable garden.

It certainly is possible to grow onions on the same bed year after year, but in order to maintain successful and healthy cropping a strict health routine must be followed. If there are any onions that you suspect are harbouring any kind of disease then remove not only the plant, but also a small amount of soil from where the onion was growing.

Hopefully this will eliminate any unwanted bacteria in the soil. With this in mind, it is also worth watering the bed with a dilution of Jeyes Fluid once the crop has been harvested - this again will help to kill any unwanted bacteria or fungi.

There are onion beds that were started over 140 years ago that are still in production today using this method!

Harvesting onions
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In general, onions should be given as long a growing season as possible to reach their maximum size.Your main crop onions should be ready for harvesting any time between August to September depending on both the weather and individual varieties.

The onion bulb will be mature when the foliage turns yellow and begins to tip over, but you will need to leave them for another couple of weeks before lifting.

Choose a dry day and if the onions are fully ripe they will lift easily from the ground by hand, any problems and you can carefully ease them out of the soil with a gardening fork.

They will now need to be dried and depending on the weather or the size of your onions it will take approximately 2-4 weeks for them to properly cure. They are now ready for the kitchen. If any of your onions have developed thick 'necks' over the growing season, use these ones straight away as they will not store well and are prone to neck rot.

For more information click onto:
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HAS ARTIFICIAL GRASS FINALLY COME OF AGE?

Lawn in need of artificial grass?



Most men, once they get to a certain age, become passionate about their lawns. They need to be of the highest standard to satisfy our primal needs and that means they have to be scrupulous tidy, luxurious, exactly the right height with no weeds or pest damage of any description. In other words, perfect!

Artificial grass
Of course there is a problem with chasing perfection and that is that is doesn't exist in nature (apart from my wife of course, so she implies). Unfortunately the reality for most of our lawns is that they are a harbinger of maladies that need to be constantly addressed. These can range from black slimes to lichen, and from mole hills to compressed worm casts!

Striving for perfection can be obsessive and with so many lawn specific tools, chemical weedkillers and fertilisers available it can also be expensive and time consuming. The trouble is that it can all get of hand as soon as you move away from a temperate climate and try to grow a lawn in a Mediterranean or, God forbid, a sub-tropical climate. Try and grow a lawn here and we are talking expensive, fancy seed mixes and as much water as you can afford to irrigate it with. And this is a major bugbear to me! In countries where fresh water is a precious and limited commodity, why on earth do people insist in pouring fresh water onto the ground with such a wasteful disregard for natural resources.

If not grass, then what?

Artificial grass
So what are the alternatives? The one that always bring a smile to my handsome face is this one. Instead of watering your lawn, let it dry off and then paint it green! It is easily applied and adds a healthy, natural look to off-coloured grass.

The added benefit to this is that is a permanent pigment, and will not wash or wear off the grass so long as it has been applied correctly.

Of course the best option to stay away from natural grass in the first place and this is where artificial grass comes into its own. When artificial grass first came to the market place during the 1960's it was a poor substitute and this reputation remained until the sports stadiums began replacing grass pitches with AstroTurf from the 1980's onward.

Artificial grass
AstroTurf made artificial grass cool. It was hard wearing under relentless use and could be used in all weathers, with a reduced amount of maintenance compared with a natural playing field. Unfortunately there were still downsides; these original surfaces require regular brushing and an infill, usually sand, although the modern day equivalent now commonly uses recycled rubber.

Modern day artificial grass is as perfect replacement for natural grass as you can get thanks to a number of important benefits. It has realistic 'grass' look, is soft and lush and has an authentic pile height that never requires mowing or maintenance.

It creates no mess and altogether makes it ideal use in gardens, especially small front gardens where mowing would be difficult or where grass refuses to grow. Furthermore, it is perfectly safe with pets and children.

So there we have it. If you want a lawn that is scrupulous tidy, luxurious, exactly the right height, no weeds or pest damage of any description and won't break the bank or ruin the environment then you really only have one sensible choice.

See, artificial grass really has come of age!

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THE WORLD'S MOST EXPENSIVE TULIP - EVER!

THE WORLD'S MOST EXPENSIVE TULIP - EVER!




Consider this. A pack of 20 tulip bulbs will cost you around £ 4.99, but there was a time when tulips were worth their weight in gold - and that was when they were cheap!

Sounds suspicious? Travel back 450 years to the Dutch golden age and you can witness the first ever economic bubble. This was a time when the most prized examples would sell at close to £1,000,000 for a single bulb! Unbelievable indeed, but absolutely true.

Tulip 'Semper Augustus'
Tulip bulbs were all the rage, but the most coveted of all were 'Viceroy' and 'Semper Augustus'.

On average, the Viceroy bulb cost between 3000 and 4200 florins depending on the size of the bulb. To put this into context, a contemporary skilled craftsman would have earned about 150 florins a year.

This is an awful lot of money for anyone to come up with but some enterprising individuals would succeed in a sale through battering.

In one such transaction, and after a long period of hard bargaining, an individual paid out thirty-six bushels of wheat, seventy-two of rice, four oxen, twelve sheep, eight pigs, two barrels of wine, four barrels of beer, two tons of butter, a thousands pounds of cheese, a bed, a suit of clothes, and a silver cup. This again was to own a single Viceroy bulb and he got it cheap! In today's money, that works out to be approximately £25,000.

The peak arrived in 1637, just before the crash, when a price of 10,000 guilders was asked. In those days, such an exorbitant amount of money would have purchased a grand house on the most fashionable canal in Amsterdam. If the sale went through, the hammer would have gone down on a transaction worth £2,500,000.

THE RED JADE VINE - Mucuna bennettii

THE RED JADE VINE - Mucuna bennettii - http://fineartamerica.com/


If you want tropical climbers in your life then you will be hard pressed to find a specimen more exotic than the outrageous Red jade vine - mucuna bennettii. Native to Papua New Guinea, this species is a relative newcomer to the world of science being formally described by Victorian government botanist Ferdinand von Mueller in 1876.

THE RED JADE VINE - Mucuna bennettii
The amazing, chandelier-like clusters of brilliant red flowers chain together to form a 3' to 4' long raceme. It is a popular choice in gardens that can accommodate it, but it will require certain conditions to thrive.

While it will flourish in tropical regions, it will do well in semi tropical regions too. While it will take as much warmth and light as it can get, its roots must be in shade. You will know if it gets to cold for it as the leaves will start to yellow and drop. This normally occurs if the temperature falls below 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

It is not a particularly difficult plant to grow and you can start off the Mucuna bennettii in a container, but it will need to be as large as you can cope with. Be aware that it will eventually grow to become a very large, woody climber. It can be used to climb a large tree or a very large pergola, just remember, it does need room to spread.

There are  reports of Mucuna bennettii growing to over 100 feet long, with vines covered in meter-long flower clusters.

Mucuna bennettii will flower in the autumn, which if properly pruned, will commence at or around the two-year mark.

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