HOW TO GROW EXOCHORDA GIRALDII var Wilsonii

How to grow Exochorda giraldii var. wilsonii - dawesarb.arboretumexplorer.org/

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Exochorda giraldii var. wilsonii is an excellent free-flowering, deciduous shrub, and noted for having arguably the largest blooms of any species or cultivar within the genus Exochorda! The original species is a native to northwest China and was introduced to western science in 1907 by the Italian Franciscan monk and missionary Giuseppe Giraldi (1848-1901). Giraldi was a well known colleague of plant collector, botanist and fellow missionary Father Hugh Scallan (1851-1928), and together completed a number of plant hunting expeditions, from which many of their introductions are still under cultivation. It was described and named by horticulturist and taxonomist Alfred Rehder (1863 – 1949) in honour of Giraldi's discovery.

How to grow Exochorda giraldii var. wilsonii

Exochorda giraldii was first distributed by Hesse’s nurseries at Weener near Hanover, Germany, then subsequently introduced to England in 1909. Unusually, the following wilsonii variety (named in honour of notable English plant collector Ernest Henry 'Chinese' Wilson (1876 – 1930)) was introduced to English gardeners two years earlier. The same year the original species was introduced.

Under favourable conditions you can expect Exochorda giraldii var. wilsonii to achieve an approximate height and width of 2.5 metres. It has characteristic arching branches (although a little more erect than the true species), and covered with attractive dark-green, narrowly obovate leaves. The paper-white, five-petaled blooms are an impressive 5 cm across and appear in May.

For best flowering affect plant Exochorda giraldii var. wilsonii in full sun although it will tolerate light, dappled shade. It will be happy in most garden soils, preferably well-drained, moisture retentive soil, although it may turn chlorotic on very shallow, chalk soils.

Prune the stems of Exochorda giraldii var wilsonii back to a strong bud after flowering to help encourage growth and more flowers.

Exochorda giraldii var. wilsonii received the Award of Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1931.

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HOW TO GROW RHODODENDRON IMPEDITUM

How to grow Rhododendron impeditum - University of Copenhagen Botanical Garden

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Introduced to western science in 1911 by Scottish botanist and well-known plant explorer George Forrest (1873 – 1932), Rhododendron impeditum is an attractive dwarf, flowering shrub often planted in rock gardens. It is a native to the Yunnan province in southwest China and was named and described for western science in by Scottish botanists Sir Isaac Bayley Balfour (1853 - 1922) and Sir William Wright Smith (1875 – 1956). The species name is from the latin word 'impediō' meaning supine (prostrate, stretched out).

Rhododendron impeditum - Stan Shebs

Commonly known as the dwarf purple rhododendron, you can expect Rhododendron impeditum to reach a height of up to 60 cm when grown under favourable conditions, It has small, aromatic leaves and widely funnel-shaped bluish-purple flowers which appear from April to May. The blooms will need to be protect from damaging late frosts.

Rhododendron impeditum will be happy in a sheltered position in full sun to semi-shade. The soil should be acidic humus rich, reliably moist but well-drained moist. Avoid planting too deeply, and if necessary dig plenty of ericaceous compost into the soil before planting.

Apply a generous mulch of leaf mould around the base of the plant each spring maintain soil moisture and stable soil temperatures over the summer.

Rhododendron impeditum received the Award of Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1944 and the Award of Garden Merit in 1984.

Stan Shebs image is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.

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HOW TO GROW PYRACANTHA 'Mohave'

How to grow Pyracantha 'Mohave' - ashwoodnurseries.com

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Commonly known as the Firethorn (and for good reason), Pyracantha 'Mohave' is a popular garden wall shrub noted for its ornamental blooms and berries. First raised in the US National Arboretum, Washington in 1963, it is a hybrid between Pyracantha coccinea 'Wyatt' and Pyracantha koidzumii. It was given the cultivar name 'Mohave and release for general cultivation in May, 1970.

How to grow Pyracantha 'Mohave'

It is a dense, medium sized specimen which under favourable conditions can be expected to grow to between 4-5 metres. It has an evergreen to semi-evergreen habit with large, glossy deep-green foliage and spines on the leafy shoots. Masses of small white to creamy white blooms appear in clusters (corymbs) from early May-June. These are followed by glossy, long-lasting, bright orange-red berries. These will show from mid August onwards and ripen soon after development. The berries will remain on the plant over the winter unless picked of by birds.

Pyracantha 'Mohave' is a robust form and able to succeed in almost any landscape situation. It will be happy in both full sun and partial shade, but will flower and berry best in full sun. Plant in any fertile, well-drained soil, but it will perform best in well-drained, reliably moist soils with a pH of 6.0–6.5. It is not recommended to add organic matter or fertiliser to the planting hole. As Pyracantha 'Mohave' matures it will become increasingly drought tolerant. Avoid areas prone to prone to waterlogging.

How to grow Pyracantha 'Mohave'

When grown as a wall shrub, plant at least 50 cm out from the wall to avoid the dry area at the base. Be aware that Pyracanthas bloom on shoots produced the previous year. So when pruning retain as much of the two-year-old wood as possible. Shorten all side shoots that arise from the main framework of branches in late summer (do not the clusters of berries), as this will allow the following seasons berries to appear more visible.

Feed in late winter, with a balanced general purpose fertiliser followed by a thick mulch of well-rotted garden compost or farm manures. Avoid having the mulch touching the trunk to reduce the incidence of disease.

Unlike a number of the other forms of Pyracantha available, Pyracantha 'Mohave' has proven to be particularly resistant to both scab and fireblight.

Pyracantha 'Mohave' received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1984.

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WHY IS MY POINSETTIA DROPPING ITS LEAVES?

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Poinsettias - Euphorbia pulcherrima, are a gorgeous addition to the Christmas table and as part of the seasonal floral decoration in general. Native to the tropical forests of Mexico and Guatemala, the plant's association with Christmas began in the 16th-century. Franciscan friars believed that the star-shaped leaf pattern symbolized the Star of Bethlehem, while the red coloured bracts represented the blood sacrifice of Jesus while he was on the cross.

When you take a tropical plant such as the poinsettia and expose it to the freezing temperatures of an English winter it is not surprising that some physical damage will occur as a result of environmental stress. For poinsettias, the typical reaction is to drop its leaves. Growers, transportation and retailers all make an effort to maintain suitable temperatures, although this is not always achieved. That being said, it is not only extremes of temperature that can cause this characteristic problem.

What causes leaf drop in poinsettias

Poinsettia leaf drop - http://www.iva.de/profil-online/haus-garten/

1. As previously mentioned, poinsettias will be prone to leaf drop if they become chilled. This typically happens when they has been unloaded for delivery and then left outside, or if a plant is placed in the boot of a car during cold to freezing temperatures. Poinsettias will need a minimum temperature of 13-15°C (55-59°F).

2. Assuming that the plants are in good condition when purchased, make sure that they are well wrapped before leaving the store and always transport inside the passenger area of the car and not the boot. Avoid buying from street stands or from outside retailers, and with regards to wrapping cover the plant right around the top of the foliage, or put it in a plastic bag so that it is completely protected.

3. An obvious one perhaps but once home do not place your poinsettia on a cold windowsill. Equally, do not place next to a strong heat source such as a radiator.

4. Be aware that poinsettias will naturally drop some leaves once flowering has finished. The ornamental red bracts are not true flowers but are instead a rosette of specialised leaves. If you look closely in the centre of the bracts the true flowers can be viewed. The flowers should be in tight bud when purchased to ensure the plant remains in good condition for as long as possible.

5. Watering can also be a factor in leaf drop. As poinsettias are from the genus Euphorbia (well known for its drought tolerant species), water sparingly as overwatering can easily damage plants roots. This will again trigger the poinsettia to drop its leaves. As a rule of thumb, only water poinsettias when the surface of the compost has begun to dry out. Do not allow the compost to dry out completely.

6. Avoid placing in a draught, and in particular cold draughts.

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HOW TO GROW FUCHSIA 'AUTUMNALE'

Fuchsia 'Autumnale'

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Fuchsia austromontana 'Autumnale' is a half-hardy, evergreen subshrub and arguably the most attractive of all the ornamental foliage effect fuchsia cultivars. Its species name 'austromontana' means southern mountains, a reference to the Peruvian Andes from where the type species was first collected. The cultivar name is self-explanatory referring to the 'autumnal colours' of its foliage.

Fuchsia 'Autumnale' flowers

Originating from the cloud forests of Peru and Bolivia, Fuchsia 'Autumnale' will not be hardy enough to overwinter outside in the cooler climates of northern Europe. It will not tolerate frosts or freezing conditions, therefore bring under protection once temperatures begin to drop below 7 degrees. Alternatively, take cuttings and propagate new stock under protection for the following spring. Overwintered species just need to be kept moist. Do not allow the compost to dry out completely and avoid waterlogging.

It is noted for its green, coppery-orange foliage, which turns an increasingly vibrant dark red, coral pink and gold as the growing season progresses. If conditions are warm enough slender-tubed deep rose-red flowers with purple petals will be produced in the summer.

Fuchsia 'Autumnale' will require a sheltered position in a moist, but well-drained soil. It will perform best in full sun or a semi-shaded position. Apply a liquid soluble, balanced fertiliser once a month during the growing season. It has a prostrate habit which makes it a popular choice for ground-cover and hanging baskets.

Fuchsia austromontana 'Autumnale' received the Award of Garden merit (AGM) from the Royal Horticultural society in 2002.

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HOW TO GROW MONKSHOOD - Aconitum napellus

How to grow Monkshood - Aconitum napellus

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As beautiful as the monkshood clearly is it holds a rather dark secret. Like other species in the genus, Aconitum napellus contains several high toxic compounds, including a potent cardiac poison. The name Aconitum comes from the Greek meaning 'without struggle' and it has historically been used to kill wolves, hence its other common name wolf's bane.

How to grow Monkshood - Aconitum napellus 

However, monkshood has an even more sinister past as it has been used a murderous poison for several thousand years. In fact records show that Aconitum napellus was often used to eliminate criminals, and personal and political enemies during the Roman empire.

Indigenous to western and central Europe, the native habitat of Aconitum napellus are the damp but well-drained soils of mountain meadows.

It will thrive as a garden plant growing under the dappled shade of small trees. It prefers a rich, soil that doesn't dry out over the summer, however add plenty of horticultural grit and organic matter to ensure that there is also good drainage otherwise the root system can become waterlogged.

How to grow Monkshood - Aconitum napellus

For you own safety always wear gloves when handling this plant as the aconitine toxin is absorbed easily through the skin.

Give the monkshood an annual mulch of well-rotted compost or manure in the spring after its second year.

With regards to pruning, cut back flowering stems once the blooms have gone over as this will help to encourage further flowering stems.

The monkshood should not be moved once planted as it does not like its roots disturbed.

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HOW TO GROW RED HOT POKER FROM SEED

How to grow red hot poker form seed

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Red hot pokers - Kniphofia, are an extremely exotic flowering herbaceous perennial, and a perfect choice for the cold hardy, tropical effect garden. Native to the continent of Africa, red hot pokers have broad strap-shaped foliage which can be anywhere between 1 and 5 ft long depending on the species or cultivar. When mature, all red hot pokers produce multiple upright flower spikes which bloom well above the foliage. However, despite their common name they are not always red but they will be brightly coloured in shades of red, orange and yellow. In fact many examples are bicoloured.

Red hot poker seeds

Unfortunately purchasing red hot pokers for the garden can be a little addictive, and this can end up causing rows with your partner as well as leaving a little out of pocket. However there is a practice solution which is to grow your own stock from seed.

You can sow red hot poker seed from February to June or if you miss this window you can get another shot from September to October. Using a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting' fill pots or seed trays and lightly firm. Sow the seed on the surface but do not cover with more compost. Instead cover the seed with a light sprinkling of horticultural grit, perlite or vermiculite. This is because in this particular instance exposure to light will promote germination. Water either using a watering can connected to a soft spraying rose or gently dunk the tray or pots into a larger container of water allowing the water to draw up naturally through the compost. This is to avoid washing the seeds to the side of their pot or tray.

Red hot poker seedlings

If you are sowing in the spring then place the pots or seed trays either in a heated propagator at a temperature of between 15-20C or move to a warm, bright windowsill and place inside a sealed, clear polythene bag to help maintain humidity. Make sure that the seeds to not receive direct sunlight. Keep the surface of the compost moist but not waterlogged, and you should expect to seed germination within 2 - 4 weeks.

Once the seeds emerge they can be removed from the sealed bag or propagator, but still left on the warm, bright windowsill. Once the seedlings are large enough to handle, they can be transplanted into 3 inch pots. Grow on for a few more weeks and then gradually acclimatise the young plants to outdoor conditions over the next week or so. Once there is no longer a threat of frosts the young plants can be planted into their final position outside at a spacing of 12-24 inches apart depending on the overall size of the mature plant.

Red hot pokers prefer a humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil positioned in full sun or partial shade. Luckily they do not require richly manured soils. Avoid wet or poorly drained soils or they may not survive over-winter.

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HOW TO GROW ECHIUM WILDPRETII

How to grow Echium wildpretii

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Echium wildpretii is a stunning herbaceous biennial that is native to the Spanish volcanic island of Tenerife. Growing in the ravines of Mount Teide (the world's third tallest volcano) wild groups of Echium wildpretii can be seen erupting from the sun-parched ground like burning daggers escaping a fiery underworld.

How to grow Echium wildpretii

As exotic as it looks, Echium wildpretii is surprisingly hardy and makes for a popular garden plant in both temperate and subtropical gardens.

Unfortunately while it is not quite tough enough to survive the cold wet winters of northern european climates, it will for short periods tolerate frost down to as low as -5 Celsius making it a perfect addition to Mediterranean gardens.

To get the best out of Echium wildpretii it will require a lot of sun and while it is typically found growing in arid conditions it will grow quite happily in most sites although it will prefer a light free draining soil. The sunnier the position the better the flowering will be. In conditions with lower light levels the flower spike will be much taller but far less dense and this can leave it prone to being knocked over in strong winds.

As biennial, it will not flower in its first year instead it will produce a dense rosette of deep-green, lanceolate and hairy leaves on a thick stem about 2-3 ft tall. Then in its second year (sometimes even its third under harsh conditions), it will rapidly grow to its full height of 12-15 ft as it producing its impressively tall flower spike. The red flowers are rich in nectar and are a favourite of bees and beekeepers alike. The plant blooms from late spring to early summer in Tenerife, after which the plant will die. However new plants will grow readily from the seed produced.

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CAMELLIA JAPONICA 'Desire'

Camellia japonica 'Desire'

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If truth be told, camellias are not a particular favorite of mine. I agree that their evergreen foliage is particularly lush, and some of them cultivars do produce some extraordinary flowers, but their is one characteristic that ruins my enjoyment of camellias every single time. It is the way their blooms suffer in our cold, wet and windy spring weather.

The cold and the wet are both enemies of the camellia flower turning it to a soggy brown nondescript piece of vegetation very much like an overcooked Brussels sprout. However that is not the end of it as frosts and early morning sunlight will compound the problem.

Camellia Japonica 'Desire'

Therefore it is impossible to create perfection in a camellia unless you are growing it in a protected environment or in a country that has a more suitable climate. This, in my mind, is why there will never be a space for a camellia in my garden - except for one!

Camellia japonica 'Desire' is without doubt an exception to my rule that I can definitely live with. Its pure white blooms are surrounded by a deep pink basal glow and as the buds opens they reveal a striking Fibonacci- like sequence of petals. This pink shading grows even deeper the near it reached the outer edge of petal edges. I have to admit that the contrast of the pale formal flowers against the very dark leaves is particularly appealing to me. Furthermore, Camellia japonica 'Desire' has the benefit of flowering from mid to late season so it is less likely to be damaged by inclement weather.

The 'Desire' cultivar was a result of a hybridization of  Camellia 'Debutante' and 'Dr.Tinsley' that was developed in California in 1973. Like all Camellia japonica hybrids this is a large evergreen shrub with attractive, polished leaves. In fact, you can expect the Camellia japonica 'Desire' to reach about 12 feet in height once mature. As a garden plant it is surprisingly hardy, but in areas prone to late frosts, plant this particular cultivar in a north or west facing site unless there is some light overhead shade from other trees that can offer some protection.

Like the majority of Camellias, 'Desire' will thrive in a good acid or neutral peaty soil, however if this is not available then dog in plenty of ericaceous compost before planting. If you can, water with rain water rather than tap water but if rain water is not available then feed with a water soluble, ericaceous fertilizer every few weeks over the growing period.

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THE MIMOSA TREE - Acacia dealbata

The Mimosa tree - Acacia dealbata

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The Mimosa tree, also known as the Silver wattle, may not be the earliest flowering ornamental tree in cultivation but it is one of the most outstanding. Coming into bloom from late-February onwards, the mimosa tree explodes into a thick cloud of golden, nectar-rich flowers which not only look amazing, but will also provide a valuable source of food for early emerging bees and other insects. The fragrant, pompom-like blooms are displayed against the backdrop of feathery, silvery foliage.

The Mimosa tree - Acacia dealbata

Native to south-east Australia and Tasmania, this small evergreen tree is typically a pioneer species after bush fires, and was brought back to Europe for cultivation in 1820. Since then it has become widely grown as an ornamental plant in warm temperate regions of the world, however it will not survive prolonged frosts. Be that as it may, the Mimosa tree can be grown outdoors in the milder parts of the UK, making a brilliant specimen for sheltered borders.

The Mimosa tree will require a rich fertile, non-alkaline soil with good drainage.

In frost prone areas Acacia dealbata will need to be grown in containers, and move them to a frost free position in winter.

Growing the Mimosa tree in a container

Pot up Acacia dealbata into a good quality, well-drained compost such as John Innes 'No.3' mixed 50:50 ericaceous compost, and grow them on in frost free conditions. It may be worth adding some horticultural grit or perlite to increase drainage further. Mimosa plants become hardier as they mature and have been known to tolerate temperatures as low as -10°Celsius for short periods! However, maintaining winter temperatures of around 4°Celsius is much more preferable.

Gradually acclimatise them to outdoor conditions over 7 to 10 days prior to moving outside. Choose a sheltered position in full sun, ideally against a south facing wall. Feed with a liquid soluble fertiliser every two weeks from May to August. In frost prone areas, will need to be moved back into a conservatory or greenhouse during winter.

Acacia dealbata received the Award for Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1935.

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THE GOLDEN CHALICE VINE - Solandra maxima

The Golden Chalice vine - Solandra grandiflora

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The Golden Chalice vine - Solandra grandiflora is one of the most impressive of all perennial climbing plants. Native to Caribbean, Mexico and South America, it is sought after by gardeners as an ornamental garden, and by local tribes for its narcotic properties.

The Golden Chalice vine - Solandra grandiflora

The defining feature of this plant are its impressive blooms. Each flower can grow up to 10 inches long, and are distinctly bell or chalice shaped - the inspiration for its common name. They first open up brilliant white in colour with a yellow throat, and have purple or brown stripes spiralling inside. As the flower matures the overall colour will darken to a lush gold.

The glossy leaves are oval shaped can grow as large as 6 inches. Unusually they sprout directly from the main stalk and side branches.

The flowers bloom in the evening or night and produce a strong, sweet fragrance similar to coconut, suggesting that they are pollinated by bats and moths. In their natural habitat the pollinated flowers are followed by large light-yellow berries which contain large amounts of tiny seeds. These berries change from light-yellow in colour to deep red as they ripen.

The aboriginal Indian tribes from central Mexico and northern Central America know the Golden Chalice vine as Kieli or Kieri which means 'Plant of the God’s'. It is regarded as a powerful, magical drug and aphrodisiac, however traditional wisdom believes that it is surrounded by evil forces.

The shamans use this plant to induce ecstatic trance states, but this is only done on rare occasions because they fear that when under its influence evil forces can steal their life force. The aboriginal Indians believe that only malicious, sinister shamans use it, and as such much of its traditional use has been kept secret

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HOW TO GROW NERINE SARNIENSIS

Nerine sarniensis

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Nerine sarniensis is without doubt one of the most stunning autumn flowering plants. Commonly known as the Guernsey Lily, it has no relation to this gorgeous island and is in fact a native to the Northern and Western Capes of South Africa. Unfortunately their warm origins mean that it is not cold hardy and will require a minimum winter temperature of between 8-10 degrees Celsius. The bulbs can survive short periods of freezing if they are planted deep enough but are likely to be damage in the process. Above all else they need as much light and heat as you can provide.

Nerine sarniensis flower

If you are growing them in a Mediterranean climate then they can be planted in any, well-drained garden soil. Set the bulbs 4 inches deep, preferably in a sharply drained, sunny border against a wall.

Leave them undisturbed until the plants become crowded and produce fewer flower stems. Lift, divide and replant the clumps, generally every four or five years.

If you are growing them in a northern European climate then plant into 6 inch pots at a rate of three bulbs per pot. Use a good quality compost such as John Innes 'No 2' with the neck of the bulbs just showing. begin watering when the flower buds appear and keep the compost just moist through the winter.

When the foliage is well developed, provide a weekly feed for about two months. Then withhold water from the time the leaves turn yellow until the next season's flowers appear. While they will need to be kept in a protected area such as a heated greenhouse over the winter, they will be quite happy outside from June onwards. Just make sure that they are positioned in a warm, sunny position.

For related articles click onto the following links:
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NERINE SARNIENSIS
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HOW TAKE CUTTINGS FROM BOUGAINVILLEA

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Bougainvillea species are undoubtedly some of the most beautiful flowering vines that money can buy. Keep them well fertilized, and not too much water, and these luscious green climbers will flower their socks off. However, Bougainvillea cultivars can be expensive to purchase, and while you may see exactly the colour form you need when driving around the neighbourhood, you cannot find it for love nor money in any of your local plant retailers.

Now there is a solution, and one that is fairly simple in execution. Take your own Bougainvillea cuttings and grow them on into viable plants. Just make sure you ask for permission first before taking cuttings from your neighbours plants as this can cause offence.

The best time to take Bougainvillea cuttings is in the spring, and while you can take cuttings at any time of the year, spring is when Bougainvilleas naturally start to produce the majority of their growth.

Using a sharp, sterilized blade, take 6 inch cuttings from below a healthy, non-flowering growing tip. Be aware that Bougainvillea can be difficult to propagate and not every cutting will form roots, therefore take more cutting material than you require. If it will be some time before the cuttings are going to be put into their compost mixture then wrap them in damp paper towel to prevent them from drying out, and also place into a closed, plastic bag.

When you are ready to commence, prepare the cuttings by remove all the leaves, except for four or five at top of the stem.

Prepare either 2 or 3 inch pot with a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting' although you may wish to mix in an extra 30% horticultural grit, perlite or vermiculite for improved drainage. Just use one pot for each cutting you want to propagate, although if you are short on pots you can get away with two cuttings per pot at most. Firm the soil down with your fingers to remove any large air pockets, and aim for a soil level about 1/4 inch below the rim of the pot.

Remove a prepared stem from the wet paper towel and dip the cut end of the stem into rooting hormone powder. It is important to tap the stem with your finger to remove any excess.

Form a hole in the soil with the blunt end of a pencil and insert the cut end of your Bougainvillea so that it is 1.5 inches below the soil level. Firm the soil around the cutting to help hold it upright. Gently water in the cuttings and once the excess has drained away put them in an old seed tray or a pan with sides. Now place the whole lot into a closed, heated propagator or inside a large plastic bag. Close off the the top of the bag to help retain humidity.

Move the cuttings to a warm, bright position, but out of direct sunlight, and try to maintain a soil temperature between 65° and 75° Fahrenheit. You may require a heat mat to achieve this or just set the thermostat if you are using the heated propagator.

Keep the compost on the moist side, but not waterlogged as this will prevent rooting. Try watering using a mister as this will also help to keep up the humidity

It can take up to three months before Bougainvilleas take root, but you can start checking the cuttings once you see new growth on the stems. Pull gently to test for root formation. If you feel a slight resistance, then the cuttings have rooted.

Once rooted, the cuttings can be removed from their bag or propagator. Remember to water, but again, make sure the compost does not become waterlogged. The Bougainvillea cuttings can be potted on to a larger pot once roots begin to emerge at the bottom of their existing pot and can planted up into their final position once they are a couple of feet in height.

For related articles click onto the following links:
How to Take Cuttings from Bougainvillea
HOW TO GROW BEAUMONTIA GRANDIFLORA
HOW TO GROW BOUGAINVILLEA
HOW TO GROW BOUGAINVILLEA
HOW TO GROW BOUGAINVILLEA FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW THE GIANT HIMALAYAN LILY - Cardiocrinum giganteum
How to Grow Sedum from Cuttings
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What is the World's Hardiest Passionflower?

CROCUS 'ORANGE MONARCH'

Crocus 'Orange Monarch' - http://highergroundgardens.com/

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The Crocus 'Orange Monarch' is lauded as the world's only truly orange crocus. But how orange is it? Well that remains to be seen as there are few images available and I have yet to see them in anyone's garden. This is because it a brand new cultivar which only became available on the market in the autumn of 2012.

Crocus 'Orange Monarch' - http://www.notcutts.co.uk/

Be that as it may, I have put my money where my mouth is, purchased some and planted them in the garden.

Unfortunately, like everyone else I will have to wait until the early spring before I find out for sure.

That aside, the richness of colour shown for crocus 'Orange Monarch' is utterly gorgeous and definitely worth a risk when a packet of ten corms retails at only a few pounds.

But there is a problem. Other than the main photograph shown above, all other images look distinctly yellowish!

This will be due to two things. Either the main photograph has been colour adjusted (the most likely explanation) to make it look more orange than it really is, or the strength of orange pigment is affected by the acidity and/or nutrient mix of the soil.

UPDATE

One year on and my first season of Crocus 'Orange Monarch' were not particularly successful. the colours were correct but there were few flowers and the plants themselves were a little weedy. Be that as it may the foliage grew stronger as the year progressed and so I am hoping for a better display this coming season. We shall see.

Two years on and the foliage has grown back far stronger however the flowers are few and short lived. Still disappointing!

For related articles click onto the following links:
CROCUS 'ORANGE MONARCH'
CROCUS 'PICKWICK'
HOW TO GROW CROCUS
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CLEMATIS montana 'Grandiflora'

CLEMATIS montana 'Grandiflora'

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If you ignore the blousy, old fashioned clematis hybrids, Clematis montana 'Grandiflora' has got to be one of the most impressive flowering climbing plants that money can buy. It is certainly a favourite of the future Mrs. Eade, and it sits 'pride of place' in her blue and white garden.

A recipient of the prestigious RHS Award of Garden merit, Clematis montana 'Grandiflora' produces dazzling, clear white from late spring to early summer.

CLEMATIS montana 'Grandiflora'

Its very hardy in nature and makes it perfect for exposed sites, such as the coastal garden that we posses.

Like all early-flowering clematis, it requires little pruning other than to tidy its habit and remove any dead or damaged growth after flowering.

It has been known for mature specimens to suddenly die off for no apparent reason. This is usually due to a condition called slime flux, caused by an injury to the stem early in the season. This occurs when sap leaks out and becomes infected with bacteria. You must act quickly by cutting out infected stems, and pruning back to good wood - even if this involves going down to ground level!

Surprisingly, the species name 'montana' has nothing to do with the American state Montana, located on its north-western border. In fact, Clematis montana is a native to the Himalayas.

It was discovered in 1818 and was introduced to European gardens in 1831 by the Countess of Amherst.

Growing to a height of up to 40 feet, this deciduous and vigorous species is one of the easiest flowering climbers to grow.

CLEMATIS montana 'Grandiflora'

It tends to produce upright leaders at first, but then they begin to branch out nearer the top. They can be planted during suitable weather any time between October and May, preferably in an alkaline soil.

Clematis montana need to be kept in an open position, but one which also shades the base of the plant and the roots from strong sun. A confliction of course, so consider under-planting the clematis in order to produce the desired effect.

Clematis are generally self supporting, but they will need some kind of framework to hold onto. Young growth may need to be tied in from time time to time to keep the plant tidy, and give an annual mulch with a well rotted manure.

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HOW TO GET TO POMPEII FROM SORRENTO

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Travelling from Sorrento to anywhere is a relatively easy affair as Sorrento train station is a terminus for the Circumvesuviana Regional Railway System - known locally as Vesuviana.

Sorrento train station

All trains - wherever they have come from - which pass through the station 'POMPEII SCAVI' as part of their journey can only continue towards Sorrento train station as this section of the line does not fork off to any other destinations.

Make sure that before you start you journey that you are wearing sensible shoes and some of the pavements are extremely uneven.

Furthermore, do not underestimate how hot it will get with the sun beating down and reflecting off the stone streets and buildings.

With this in mind make sure that you take plenty of water and wear plenty of suncream. During the heat of the day and especially during the summer, don't forget sunglasses and a suitable sun hat. Trust me, 3 hours walking round the ruins is going to be tiring even if it isn't hot.

So how to you get to Pompeii from Sorrento?

Pompei Scavi train station

As mentioned before, this is very straightforward - so long as you aim for the correct station.

This is because some confusion can arise regarding the stations names. Why? Because there are two Stations at Pompeii.

The first is 'POMPEI', while the second is 'POMPEI SCAVI'. Luckily, the 'Pompei' station in on a different line to the one that leaves Sorrento station.

The station you want is 'POMPEII SCAVI' - Scavi meaning 'ruins'.

You can purchase your tickets in the small newsagents found to the right of Sorrento station. It currently costs 2,20 Euros one way.

I will suggest that you buy return tickets here in order to save faffing about at the other end. You will be far too hot and tired from 3 or 4 hours of walking around in the baking hot sun to stand in more queues.

Circumvesuviana train

As I said earlier, you can get on any train at this station as they will all pass through Pompeii Scavi.

The trains are a bit dirty and generally covered in graffiti, but considering how cheap the tickets are I don't see how anyone can really complain.

You are best off sitting on the left hand side of the train as this will expose you to the best views of the Bay of Naples, however a large part of the journey will be in complete darkness as you travel through tunnels cut out of the volcanic rock. The journey takes about 35-40 minutes.

Be aware of poorly trained musicians who will be travelling along with you, pestering for money. If you allow them to, they will damage your finances as well as your hearing!

Street stalls on the road to Pompeii

You leave the station using the underpass. A point of interest is that there is a toilet in the underpass which costs 1 Euro - something you may well need after your journey, especially as most people exiting with you will refuse to pay it and instead hold on to it a bit longer.

There are of course toilets at the entrance to the Pompeii ruins, but remember that most of the passengers who were on the train are now walking next to you and they all want to be first in line at the next, free, toilet opportunity.

Once you have reached the station exit turn right, and walk along the street stall until you reach the entrance to the ruins a couple of minutes up the road.

The entrance to Pompeii ruins

When travelling back you will need to return to Pompeii Scavi station.

Remember to validate your return tickets in the push box by the doors leading out to the platform. If you forget and are asked to produce them invalidated to a ticket inspector then expect to pay a fine.

You will pick up your train from platform one to Sorrento, which is on the other side of the platform. If there are any seats spare then try and sit on the right hand side for the return journey.

Remember to take plenty of water and sun cream.

For related articles click onto:
HOW TO GET TO POMPEII FROM SORRENTO

WHEN DO TREE FERNS PUT OUT NEW FRONDS?

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Like other ferns, tree ferns will have a period of dormancy over the winter and break out into new growth in the spring. The trouble is that they are usually late in developing new fronds when compared to the more usual native or regular ornamental ferns.

New stock imported from the forests of Australia Tasmania and New Zealand will be in what is considered to be prime condition - even though they would have had both their roots and foliage removed. Even so, these tree ferns will have enough of an internal root system, and energy stores to start producing new fronds by the end of April - I am talking northern European climates here.

If you have purchased poorly maintained stock from a retail plant outlet, but have made efforts to supply a solid watering and feeding regime since taking ownership then you can expect your tree fern to unfurl its first frond in early to mid May depending on how the weather pans out.

If you are extremely careful then you will be able to feel the embryonic fronds as early as February - just try not to break them.

Be aware that a warm dry spring can easily kill off this new growth if the tree fern if it is not regularly watered, and I mean sufficient water to both the crown of the tree fern as well as its trunk.

If these early fronds do dry out then your tree fern is unlikely to survive into the following year.

For more information click onto:
Buy Tree fern Seeds
CYATHEA COOPERI - The Lacy Tree Fern
CYATHEA MEDULLARIS - The Black Tree Fern
DICKSONIA ANTARCTICA
DICKSONIA SQUARROSA
HOW TO FEED TREE FERNS
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HOW TO OVERWINTER TREE FERNS
HOW TO PROTECT TREE FERNS OVER WINTER
HOW TO WATER TREE FERNS

JAPANESE PAINTED FERNS - Athyrium niponicum cultivars

THE RASP FERN - Doodia media
WHEN DO TREE FERNS PUT OUT NEW FRONDS?
Why is my Tree Fern Dead?

WHAT IS A PARTERRE?

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Put simply, a parterre is a formal garden constructed on a level surface consisting of multiple planting beds. They are usually edged in stone or tightly clipped hedging with gravel paths arranged to form a pleasing, and usually symmetrical pattern.

The compartments within the hedge or path are either open and in-filled with sand or closed and planted with flowers or herbs. Their design is such that their best effect is only really appreciated when seen from above.

French parterres originated in 15th-century. They were then developed - but not invented - in France by Claude Mollet,a member of the Mollet dynasty of French garden designers in the seventeenth century, and first gardener to the French kings Henry IV, Louis XIII and the young Louis XIV.

However, Mollet is believed to have been the first introduce as an edging to his parterre patterns.

He likened them to 'un tapis de Turquie' - a Turkish carpet.

Mollets new designs didn't meet with everyone's approval as his new clipped box hedges met with resistance from certain garden patrons for its 'naughtie smell' - as the herbalist Gervase Markham described it.

Mollets inspiration in developing the 16th-century patterned compartments was the painter Etienne du Pérac, who returned from Italy to the château of Anet, where he and Mollet were working.

About 1595 Mollet introduced compartment-patterned parterres to royal gardens at Saint-Germain-en-Laye and Fontainebleau.

But the fully developed scrolling embroidery-like parterres en broderie' appear for the first time in Alexandre Francini’s engraved views of the revised planting plans at Fontainebleau and Saint-Germain-en-Laye in 1614.

Although they can still been seen today, their popularity reached a climax at Versailles from where they spread across to the Royal palaces of Europe such as Kensington Palace, England. Contrary to modern depictions of parterres, they do not require flowers to be displayed within them.

For related articles click onto the following links:
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WHEN DO YOU CUT BACK A LEYLANDII HEDGE?