BLACK SPOTS ON PANSY AND VIOLA LEAVES

Black spots on pansy and viola leaves

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Your precious pansies and violas seem to be doing well until one day you notice that the leaves are covered in tiny black spots. The plants appear otherwise healthy and the spots themselves are difficult to see. However once you know they are there the evidence becomes glaring.

The spots can appear as either small, round pin pricks or irregular blotches. These are caused by one, and sometimes more of three specific fungi, namely Ramularia lactea, Ramularia agrestis and Mycocentrospora acerina.

There is some bad news as these fungal spores are only spread by rain over short distances and not wind-borne, so the likely source of the fungus is from the purchase of infected plants.That being said it is possible that wild pansies and violas may also provide sources of infection for garden specimens. To add another layer of bad news non-chemical controls only go as far as to avoid repeat planting on the same site to prevent the build-up of these pathogens in the soil. There is no specific chemical control for black spots on pansy and viola leaves however consider using Bayer Fungus Fighter Concentrate, Bayer Fungus Fighter Plus, Scotts Fungus Clear Ultra and Scotts Fungus Clear Ultra Gun.

These fungal spores develop in humid, moist conditions and so as a precaution, and while it is not always easy always try to water from the base and avoid splashing leaves and flowers.

Be aware that without preventive measures these fungal spores can contaminate the soil for several years.

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HOW TO GROW CHEALS WEEPING CHERRY

How to grow Cheals Weeping cherry

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There are approximately 550 forms of weeping cherry, but in England at least Cheals Weeping cherry is by far the most popular in cultivation. The 'Cheal's Weeping' common name is often interchangeable with the Japanese name ‘Kiku-shidare-sakura’ meaning ‘Weeping Chrysanthemum Cherry’. However although very similar they are in fact different forms. Prunus ‘Kiku-shidare-zakura’ has a slightly less weeping-shaped canopy.

How to grow Cheal's Weeping cherry

As with most Japanese Cherries their origins have been obscured having been in cultivation for some 1000 years. This is why so many are not named according to strict nomenclature. All we really know is that it is an old Japanese cultivar which is known since the end of the 19th century and subsequently introduced into Europe around 1915.

With regards to its anglicised name, the Cheal in question is Joseph Cheal (1848-1935), a Quaker, nurseryman, gardener and landscape designer active. He is perhaps best remembered for his work carried out as part of the family firm 'Joseph Cheal and Son', who were a partnership of designers active during this period. He is best known for his hand in designing the gardens at Hever Castle, Kent, Kirkstall Abbey, Yorkshire and Polesden Lacey, Surrey.

Along with his father (John Cheal 1800-1896) and brother Alexander, Cheal worked at the Lowfield Nurseries at Crawley, Sussex, England, which was established in 1871. Presumably Prunus ‘Kiku-shidare-sakura’ was propagated here in significant numbers to fulfil their own garden designs, hence the attachment of the 'Cheal' name.

How to grow Cheal's Weeping cherry

Cheals Weeping cherry is a small tree which under favourable conditions (and dependent on chosen rootstock and grafting technique) can be expected to reach an approximate height and spread of 2.5-4 metres. It has steeply arching or drooping branches, clothed with glossy-green, serrated leaves. In the spring the new foliage emerge a bronze-green colour.

Of course, Cheal's Weeping cherry is favoured for its stunning and comparatively large, double pink blooms which wreath the branches in April or May. Each flower can be upto 3.5cm wide and usually , but not always, appear on bare branches before the leaves emerge.

So long as it is positioned in full sun, Cheal's Weeping cherry will perform well in all types of well drained soil, including chalk soils. Avoid soils prone to waterlogging, and add plenty of organic matter to poor soils before planting.

Cheal's Weeping cherry received the Award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1915.

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Main image credit - https://familysearch.org/photos/artifacts/28389807

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HOW TO GROW FRANGIPANI TREE FROM SEED

How to grow the Frangipani tree from seed

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The Frangipani tree - Plumeria species and cultivars, are a genus of mostly deciduous shrubs or small trees from Central and South America including the Caribbean Islands. Plumeria species are easily propagated from cuttings but they have a milky latex containing poisonous compounds that irritate the eyes and skin. This often makes the favourite method of propagation for many seed germination.

Frangipani seeds - http://www.plumeria.care/

Frangipani seeds are of a winged design and are best sown fresh from the pod, Before sowing place the seeds between moistened tissue papers and seal inside a resealable pot or bag. Leave for 24 hours in a suitable warm environment to allow the seeds to swell.

In the meantime fill 9 cm pots with a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Potting'. When the seeds are ready, push the swollen end of seed approximately 5 mm into the compost allowing part of this wing exposed.

Gently water in and then place inside a heated propagator at a temperature of between 20-24 degrees Celsius. Alternatively place inside a resealable clear pot or polythene bag and move to a warm bright position such as a windowsill, but one which not receive direct sunlight during the warmest part of the day.

Frangipani seedlings

Keep the compost moist at all times but not waterlogged and you can expect germination to occur from approximately 7-40 days depending on the seeds freshness.

Once they have emerged they can be removed from their propagator, pot etc.but kept in a warm, bright position, the embryonic seed leaves (dicotyledons) will emerge with the remains of the seed coat (with wing) still attached. This usually drops off by its own accord however as the leaves grow bigger and the seed coat (testa) is still in place spray it with a fine mist and gently remove.

When the first set of true leaves have emerges and the plant is approximately 10 cm tall it will be ready for potting on into a well-drained compost. Disturb the rootball as little as possible during this process. and moving forward, water regularly but do not allow the compost to become waterlogged. They can either be cultivated as pot grown specimens under protection, but if temperatures do not drop below 10 degrees they can be hardened off over a period of ten days to two weeks before growing outside in their permanent position.

How to grow the Frangipani tree from seed

Note. If the compost is kept too wet then fungal infections can take hold eventually killing off the seedlings. Always treat with a suitable fungicide the moment an infection is realised.

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Main Image - Zachi Evenor CC BY 3.0
Middle Image - Renesis CC BY-SA 3.0

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HOW TO GROW ASPARAGUS PEAS FROM SEED

How to grow asparagus peas from seed

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The Asparagus pea - Lotus tetragonolobus, also known as the 'Winged pea' is an edible herbaceous perennial from the Fabaceae (bean) family. Native to the warm temperate regions of the Old World it is becoming an increasingly popular summer crop in the milder regions of Ireland and England.

How to grow asparagus peas from seed

It is a nutrient rich species, and all parts of the plant are edible. Typical to many members of this genus, the Asparagus pea grows as a low bush. Under favourable conditions you can expect it to grow to approximately 50 cm in height.

Despite its tropical origins the Asparagus pea is an easy to grow, vegetable with a unique gourmet flavour, although asparagus flavour is a bit of a stretch.

To make the most of the comparatively short English growing season, sow Asparagus peas under protection either indoors or a heated greenhouse in the early spring. Soak the seeds in tepid water for a few hours before sowing the seeds individually in 7.5cm pots. Use a good quality seed compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'. Gently water in, then place the pots inside a heated propagator at a temperature of 19-21 degrees Celsius. Close the vents to maintain humidity. You can expect germination to occur in approximately 7-14 days. Alternatively place the pots inside a sealed clear polythene bag and position on a warm windowsill, bu one which does not receive direct sunlight during the hottest part of the day.

How to grow asparagus peas from seed

Once all risk of late frosts have passed, and the roots have established in their pots, they can be hardened off to outside conditions over a period of 10 days to 2 weeks.

Asparagus peas prefer a light, well-drained soil in a sunny position. Rake the soil to fine tilth before planting. Plant outside into their final position 30 cm apart. On heavy soil plant the seedlings into a ridge to improve drainage.

Harvest the pea pods regularly, while they are still young and tender. Don't allow them to get more than 3cm long as this will affect the flavour.

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HOW TO GROW MAMMILLARIA FROM SEED

How to grow Mammillaria from seed - image credit Ryan Benoit

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The majority of species and cultivars can be propagated from cuttings or offsets, however all can be easily grown from seed. Just be aware that selected cultivars and hybrids will not grow true to the parent plants.

Mammillaria fruits and seeds

All Mammillaria seeds are small; in fact they will seldom exceed 1 m in diameter or length. So to make sowing easier use a toothpick with the tip moistened to lift each seed and set it in place on the compost. For very fine seed mix well in with some fine, dry, silver sand, and sow the seed/sand mix across the surface of the compost.

Using a good quality cactus compost, fill suitable pots, pan or a modular seed tray to 1-2 cm from the top of the pot. If proprietary composts are not available then you can consider creating your own mix using 1 part of loam based compost (John Innes No 3), 1 part washed, sharp sand and 1 part of fine vermiculite. Mix thoroughly and then put through a 5mm sieve.

Newly germinated Mammillaria seedlings

Good quality proprietary composts should all have been heat treated prior to packing to ensure the product is sterile. If you are keen to maintain sterile condition, and even then only using only plastic products, place the filled pots into a tray and carefully add boiling hot water to the compost until the water reaches to just below the rim of the pots. Leave to stand until the compost in the pot has become soaked through. Avoid boiling plastic pots as they can become misshapen, instead clean with a bleach solution before rinsing thoroughly. Previously used terracotta pots can be boiled, but only by starting off in cool to warm water before heating up. Adding terracotta pots directly in to boiling water can cause them to crack.

How to grow Mammillaria from seeds

Once cooled, the seeds can be sown sparsely onto the surface of the compost and then pressed into the surface. Do not bury the seed. Add a thin layer of vermiculite to the surface of the compost to help prevent the seeds from moving when watered. Water gently in and continue to keep the water moist throughout the germination process. Never allow the compost to become waterlogged. Tap water is preferable to rainwater.

Move the pots or trays to a heated propagator and maintain a temperature of between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. With fresh seed you can expect a germination rate of between 40-50% with the first seedlings emerging after 5-7 days, and then with the rest appearing after 4 weeks. Older seeds will have a lower rate of germination and can take up to a month before they start to emerge.

Unlit they are about 3mm wide the seedlings will be just featureless green globules, but after after a month the first signs of spines will appear at the top. pricking out should not be attempted until at least a year has passed. By thus time the seedlings will be robust enough to withstand handling without too much risk of root damage. When replanting take care to ensure that the soil level is not higher than it was in its original container.

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HOW TO GROW OSMANTHUS DELAVAYI

How to grow Osmanthus delavayi

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Unimaginatively known as the Delavay osmanthus, Osmanthus delavayi is gem of an ornamental evergreen shrub noted for its fragrant spring blooming. Native to southern China, it was discovered for western science in 1890 by Jesuit missionary-botanist Fr Pierre Jean Marie Delavay (hence the species name) in the mountains near Lan-kong in the Yunnan province.

How to grow Osmanthus delavayi

Osmanthus delavayi is a slow-growing, medium-sized shrub which under favourable conditions will reach a height and spread of between 2.5-4 metres. The dark-green, rounded or ovate, sharply-toothed opposite leaves are up to 2.5cm in length. Abundant small, highly-scented jessamine-like white flowers are produced in clusters and are freely produced in April. These are then followed by small, blue-black berries.

It is best planted between October and March during suitable weather in any well-drained soil. Position in full sun or partial shade, but sheltered from north and east winds. Osmanthus delavayi makes for an ideal specimen in woodland gardens

Osmanthus delavayi received the Award of Merit (AM) from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1923, the First Class Certificate (FCC) in 1931, and the Award of Garden Merit (AGM) in 1993

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HOW TO GROW SEDUM SPECTABILE 'AUTUMN JOY'

How to grow Sedum spectabile 'Autumn Joy'

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Now re-classified as the unpronounceable Hylotelephium spectabile 'Herbstfreude', Sedum spectabile 'Autumn Joy' is a clump-forming herbaceous perennial, the true species of which is native to China and Korea.

How to grow Sedum spectabile 'Autumn Joy'

It is a popular garden plant not due to its ability to cope with drought, but for its nectar rich blooms which provide a valuable late summer source of food for butterflies and other insects. It is even recommended by Butterfly Conservation and the Royal Horticultural Society no less for attracting butterflies into the garden.

Under normal conditions you can expect Sedum spectabile 'Autumn Joy' to achieve an approximate height and spread of between 0.1-0.5 metres. Once near their maximum height, the stems can be prone to collapsing like a ring of dominoes. However if this habit offends you then consider cutting back one third of the new growth in May. This will result in slightly smaller (but more numerous) flowers and less leggy growth.

 It has broadly ovate white-green succulent leaves that can appear in twos or threes at each node.

The pink flower heads appear from September to October in flat cymes which can be up to 15 cm across.

Grow Sedum spectabile 'Autumn Joy' in any moderately fertile, well-drained, neutral to slightly alkaline soil. Just make sure that it is positioned in full sun. The best time of year to plant is during suitable weather between October and April.

Cut back after flowering to maintain shape or leave seedheads overwinter and remove the spent stems in the spring.

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CLIMBING PLANTS FOR AUTUMN COLOUR

Climbing plants for autumn colour

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If you are looking for climbing plants to produce a glorious, although limited rainbow of autumn colour (mainly red and orange and yellow) then there are few examples better than the popular Parthenocissus genus, most notably the Russian vine and Virginia creeper.

However while these two species are arguably the 'Kings of Autumn Colour' (or Kind and Queen, it's not important) there are a couple of pretenders to the throne who are well worth considering. So see below for my top climbing plants for autumn colour:

Parthenocissus quinquefolia

Parthenocissus quinquefolia

Commonly known as the 'Virgin ivy' or 'Virginia creeper', Parthenocissus quinquefolia is a deciduous climbing plant native to the south west of Central America.

It is a prolific climber, able to reach heights of between 20–30 m in the wild. It secures itself to its chosen surface using small forked tendrils tipped with small strongly adhesive pads.

It is suitable for both full sun or shade in sheltered or exposed conditions. Parthenocissus quinquefolia will thrive in any fertile, well-drained soil.

Hydrangea petiolaris

Hydrangea petiolaris

Native to the woodlands of Japan, Korea and the Russian Far East, Hydrangea petiolaris is a vigorous woody climbing vine plant which fixes to its support by means of small aerial roots on the stems.

 It can be particularly effective when grown against brick or stone walls or fencing where it can easily attach to the surface.

It is best grown in rich, fertile, moist but well-drained soils, but unlike many other climbing plants is prefers to be grown in part shade to full shade.

Vitis coignetiae

Vitis coignetiae

Commonly known as the 'Glory vine', Vitis coignetiae first came to the attention of English gardeners in 1883 and is to native to the temperate climates of Asia. The species name is in honour Mr. and Mrs. Coignet who reportedly brought seeds back from their trip to Japan in 1875.

It is a very vigorous specimen with purple shoots and mid-green leaves.

 Vitis coignetiae is ideal for sun or partial shade in a well-drained soil, especially in a neutral or alkaline soils.

Parthenocissus tricuspidata

Parthenocissus tricuspidata

Commonly known as the Boston Ivy, Parthenocissus tricuspidata is a deciduous woody vine which under favourable conditions can grow up to 30 metres in height.

Native to Japan, Korea, and China,  the foliage can vary in shape on the same plant from deeply toothed, three-lobed leaves, to three separate leaflets

It will grow well in full sun to partial shade, however to achieve the best autumn colour, site Parthenocissus tricuspidata in partial shade or full shade. It will thrive in any fertile, well-drained soil.

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BUY PUYA RAIMONDII SEED

Buy Puya raimondii seeds

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Commonly known as the 'Queen of the Andes', Puya raimondii is a stunning architectural and ornamental desert-dwelling succulent. It is the world's largest bromeliad and while it is rarely seen in cultivation it is possible to purchase Puya raimondii seeds, although should always research your suppliers first as rogue sellers as always around to take advantage of collectors enthusiasm.

Genuine Puya raimondii seeds

Luckily, at the 'Seeds of Eaden' we have taken the pain out of buying Puya raimondii seed as our suppliers are always checked prior to becoming selected.

Germinating Puya raimondii seeds can be a little tricky due to the desolate environment from which they originate. However, once successful germination has been achieved, cultivation is considerably easier.

To help you through the germination process, a detailed technique for germinating Puya raimondii can be found at the following link:

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HOW TO GROW HEDERA CANARIENSIS 'GLOIRE DE MARENGO'

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Hedera canariensis 'Gloire de Marengo' is one of the most popular of all the ornamental, large-leaved ivies. The species Hedera canariensis is native to the Atlantic coast of northern Africa and Canary islands and as such the 'Gloire de Marengo' is not as hardy as many of its other closely related species and cultivars.

It is a vigorous, evergreen climbing plant able reach a height of between 2.5-4 metres once established. It will be happy trained up a trellis, garden wall, over a fence, or allowed to spread across the soil as ground cover.

When grown in northern European climates, Hedera canariensis 'Gloire de Marengo' will require a warm, sheltered position in either full sun or partial shade. Try to avoid heavy shade, as light helps to bring out the variegation.

It will be happy in most ordinary garden soils, so long as they are moist and well-drained. New planted specimens may require watering during their first year during warm, dry spells.

In regions which experience periods of prolonged, freezing temperatures, foliage and new seasons growth can be damaged in hard winters, although it will reliably re-grow back in the spring. However to maintain the quality of the plant's colourful, glossy leaves, it is advisable to plant Hedera canariensis 'Gloire de Marengo' against a south-facing wall. The additional protection of horticultural fleece may also be required.

Pot grown specimens are best planted in mild weather from September to March.

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HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM BAY TREES

How to take cuttings from bay trees

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The common sweet bay - Laurus nobilis, is not only a popular and handsome large shrub or small tree, its leaves are often used to flavour Mediterranean dishes - in particular Italian pasta sauces. Of course most us us will be more familiar with the rather expensive but highly ornamental trained laurel topiary, and while purchasing such luxury items places the out of reach of many of our pockets, growing your own bay trees from cuttings is certainly not.

How to take cuttings from bay trees

August or September is the time for taking bay tree cuttings. When choosing suitable cutting material avoid damaged, unhealthy, over-vigorous or unusual material, selecting shoots that are more horizontal in habit with short gaps between the leaves.

Using a clean and sterilized blade, take 4 inch heel cuttings of lateral shoots. A heel cutting where the cutting is pulled away with a piece of the stem. Remove the lower leaves and if you want to created a multi-stemmed plant pinch out the shoot. Insert the cuttings into terracotta pots containing equal parts (by volume) peat and horticultural sand, it is not necessary to use rooting hormone powder.

If you do choose to use rooting hormone powder then dip in the exposed wood at the heel of the cutting, then tap the excess of back into the container. Remember to use a dibber to create a guide hole for the cutting otherwise you will end up rubbing the hormone powder off of the cutting.

How to take cuttings from bay trees

Gently water in and place outside into a cold frame. They should have rooted by the spring and can be transplanted individually into 3-4 inch pots containing a good quality compost such as John Innes 'No 1'.

Pot on successfully as required. Alternatively you can place the pots in a heated propagator at approximately 18 degrees Celsius which will promote faster rooting.

Come the following October the young bay tree plants can be set out in a nursery bed and then grown on for a year or two before planting out into there final position from March onwards or once the threat of late frost have passed. This is particularly important if you have experienced a mild spring as any new growth is at risk of being burned off by a hard frost.

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HOW TO GROW AMARYLLIS BELLADONNA

How to grow Amaryllis belladonna

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Amaryllis belladonna is a beautiful late summer flowering ornamental bulb native to south and south-west Africa. It is surprising hardy and despite its subtropical origins will survive outside in the milder regions of northern Europe - including the south of England.

How to grow Amaryllis belladonna

They are usually purchased as pre-packed dried bulbs in late spring. They can be planted as soon as the threat of late frost has passed but historically they are usually kept in a cool, dry position until being planted in June or July. Plant them  6-8 inches deep in a well-drained soil making sure that the tops of the bulbs are covered.

Amaryllis belladonna will do best at the foot of a south facing wall where it can receive the maximum amount of heat and light from the summer sun. It will also require a certain amount of protection for the young leaves as they emerge in late winter and early spring.

If left undisturbed, new bulbs will develop and form clumps of plants over a period of years. Despite their long delicate-looking stems they will not require staking. Remove flowers as they die, but allow the stems and leaves to die down before removing.

Amaryllis belladonna has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.

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HOW TO GROW THYME - Thymus vulgaris

How to grow thyme - Thymus vulgaris

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The herb thyme - Thymus vulgaris, is a hardy, aromatic, evergreen dwarf shrub, the shoots of which are used as a culinary herb for favouring. Commonly called the 'garden thyme' or 'common thyme', it is native to the Mediterranean regions including north Africa growing wild on mountain highlands

The fragrant leaves dark-green leaves are long and narrow and are used fresh or dried in bouquet garni and in stuffing for rich meat or fish, and in casseroles.

How to grow thyme - Thymus vulgaris

Thyme will grow best in a hot, sunny location in any well-drained soil. It is generally planted in the spring so that it has time to establish its root system before the hot, dry summer months. It will need watering in its first year, especially in the warm summer months and during periods when there is little or no rain. By the second year it should be surprisingly drought resistant. Thyme is also tolerant to salt spray making it suitable for coastal areas.

After it flowering period in June, cut back thyme plants to maintain compact bushy growth, however you may well find that if ignored your plants have become straggly after a couple of years. Unfortunately mature plants do not tend to respond well to pruning so you may wish to consider replacing them with new stock in this instance.

It can be propagated by seed from February to April, heel cuttings in May or June, or by dividing rooted sections in March to April.

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HOW TO GROW THE STRAWBERRY TREE - Arbutus unedo

How to grow the Strawberry tree - Arbutus unedo

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The Strawberry Tree (sometimes known as the Irish or Killarney Strawberry Tree) - Arbutus unedo is a gorgeous, evergreen tree from the Ericaceae family. Despite its Ericaceae background, the strawberry tree is surprisingly lime tolerant.

There are a number of cultivars available notably 'Elfin King', 'Integerrima', 'Quercifolia' and 'Rubra'.

Strawberry tree bark

You can plant the strawberry tree in October, or if you miss this opportunity from March to May, in a moist but well-drained soil. While Arbutus unedo and it cultivars are known to be lime tolerant, they will still perform best in a good, lime-free, loam. However, despite being in the ericaceae family they have proven to be surprisingly tolerant of chalky and limey soils. They will need a sunny position but keep them a sheltered position away from cold northern and eastern winds.

Be aware that the young plants can be particularly tender and will require winter protection of bracken or straw. Once they have established they will be able to withstand greater cold and exposure.

You should not prune your strawberry tree as this can quickly ruin its ornamental habit, although straggly shoots may be cut back to the main stems in April.

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How to take Cuttings from Strawberry Plants
HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM THE STRAWBERRY TREE - Arbutus unedo
LABURNUM ALPINUM
LABURNUM WATERERI 'ALFORDS WEEPING'
LABURNUM x WATERERI 'VOSSII'
THE CANARY ISLAND TREE DANDELION
THE FIREWHEEL TREE - Stenocarpus sinuatus
THE MARBLE BERRY - Pollia Condensata
THE STRAWBERRY TREE - Arbutus unedo
WALNUT TREES

Main image licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license Lucarelli.

LAVENDER AS HEDGING PLANTS

Lavender as hedging plants - http://www.pinterest.com/pin/430586414345669776/

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When you think of hedging plants most people will overlook lavender as a suitable candidate. However with its fragrant, crisp foliage and ornamental flowers lavender is ideal for both formal and informal hedges although formal hedges will require more clipping to keep in shape, which will also prevent flowering.

Lavender hedging plants

The lavender genus contains 28 species of evergreen shrubs. The following selection are the best for creating low-growing hedges:

Lavandula angustifolia
Lavandula nana atropurpurea
Lavandula officinalis
Lavandula spica
Lavandula spica 'Hidcote'
Lavandula vera
Lavandula stoechas

Note 1. Lavandula angustifolia, spica and officinalis are all pseudonyms for the same plant commonly known as Old English lavender'.

Note 2. Be aware that Lavenders spica 'Hidcote' and nana atropurpurea are also the same plant.

Note 3. Lavandula vera is generally considered to be just a more compact form of Lavandula spica

Lavender as hedging plants

Lavender hedges are best planted between April and May as the soil is warming up. They will thrive in any ordinary, well-drained soil in a sunny position. Set your plants 9-12 inches apart, or 19 inches apart for larger cultivars. They are even happy to grow in poor, chalky or alkaline soils.

On heavier soils lavender can be fairly short-lived and become woody at the base. To prolong the life of your lavender on heavy soils, dig in plenty of organic matter and gravel to improve the drainage. Whatever your soil type plant your lavender hedge on a ridge to keep the base of the plants out of wet soil.

Prune new hedges to remove any dead flowering stems and lightly trim the plants to shape over the summer. Established hedges should be clipped to shape during March or April.

Lavender hedges are relatively pest and disease free although you can be prone to cuckoo spit in the spring.

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Ozothamnus rosmarinifolius silver Jubilee'
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HOW TO GROW ACTINIDIA KOLOMIKTA

How to grow Actinidia kolomikta

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The variegated kiwi vine - Actinidia kolomikta is one of the more unusual climbing plants that you can expect to find on display at your local plant retailer. Unlike most ornamental climbers its flowers are rather insignificant at no more than 1/2 inch across, but this isn't really a problem because Actinidia kolomikta produces some of the most beautiful foliage that money can buy!

How to grow Actinidia kolomikta

It is a large plant capable of growing up to between 25-30 metres and as a member of the kiwi family it will produce delicious, kiwi fruit-like berries. The fruits themselves are relatively small with each fruit weighing no more than 2-5 grams. The flowers are white, slightly fragrant and borne in June.

The leaves start of green when they first appear in the spring, but as the season progresses  they develop the very striking yet random pink and white variegation on the terminal half of the leaf. However not all of the leaves with develop this attractive and sought after colouration.

Native to temperate mixed forests of the Russian Far East, Korea, Japan and China Actinidia kolomikta is the hardiest of all the species within the genus Actinidia, and despite its exotic looks is capable to tolerating temperatures as low as −40 °Celsius. However, it can be somewhat susceptible to late spring frosts once the new seasons growth has emerged.

How to grow Actinidia kolomikta

Actinidia kolomikta will grow well in any soil except that which is chalky, lacking in humus or poorly drained.

They will do best in a rich loam in a sunny or partly shaded position. It will need some initial training on wall supports but once it become established it will become self supporting.

Strangely, cat are extremely attracted to Actinidia kolomikta and may damage the stems which in extreme cases will kill the plants.

The plant was introduced to the gardens of Europe by Charles Maries who discovered it in 1878 on the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido. Actinidia kolomikta received its Award of Garden Merit (AGM) in from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1984.

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SENECIO SCANDENS

BOMAREA CALDASII

Bomarea caldasii - http://farm5.static.flickr.com/

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Bomarea caldasii is a gorgeous evergreen vine that can reach up to 3 metres in height. Native to the tropical and Andean regions of America, Bomarea caldasii is known for its gnarled stems and highly ornamental flowers. It is typically found growing in the forest under-story, in lightly shaded conditions although it will grow best in full sun. The stems emerge from short underground rhizomes and will vigorously search out for support as it grows. In countries where is has naturalised it can be considered an invasive weed as it will smother and kill native plants given the right conditions.

Bomarea caldasii seeds - http://images.summitpost.org/

The blooms are produced in late spring/early summer in a dense umbel at the end of the growing shoots. Each umbel can be composed of as many as 30-45 flowers consisting of three outer tepals and three inner, sometimes of contrasting colours.Once pollinated the flowers develop into capsules about 2 cm in diameter and when ripe will open to reveal bright orange, fleshy seeds.

Bomarea caldasii is considered to be a perennial vine, but it will die back over winter if exposed to severe frosts. You can propagate Bomarea caldasii from its roots suckers or by seed.

The genus Bomarea was first described by the French botanist Charles-François Brisseau de Mirbel in 1802 but it is named after the French pharmacist Jacques-Christophe Valmont Bomare (1731-1807).

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THE TURK'S CAP LILY - Lilium martagon

The Turk's cap lily- Lilium martagon

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The Turk's cap lily- Lilium martagon is one of the most popular of all lilies suitable for the garden. It is slow growing, lime tolerant species that is easily grown from seed. Native to a wide area from central Europe east to Mongolia and Korea, this was one of the first lily species to be grown successfully in British gardens.

Lilium martagon

Described by John Gerard in 1596, the common name of 'Turk's Cap Lily' comes from a style of turban adopted by the Turkish ruler, Sultan Mohammed the first. This rather regal turban was known as a martagon and had a pendulous shape similar to that produced by the lily's flower.

John Gerard (1545 – 1611 or 1612) was a botanist and herbalist best known as the author of the heavily illustrated Herball, or Generall Historie of Plantes. First published in 1597, it was the most widely circulated botany book in English in the 17th century.

Lilium martagon is a hardy, basal-rooting species that can grow between 3 ft and 7 ft tall. The scented flowers are typically pink-purple, with dark spots, but this can be quite variable, with some individuals producing flowers which extending from near white to near black!

Numerous flowers are borne on each plant, and up to 50 can be found on more vigorous specimens. The tall green stems can also be flushed with purple or red pigments and the leaves are elliptic to inverse lanceolate, mostly in whorls, up to 6 inches long. They are also lightly hairy underneath.

Lilium martagon is best planted in the autumn as dried bulbs at a depth of 4 inches. They can go into any well-drained soil that has been enriched with leaf-mould or well-rotted manure. They will do best on a south facing, slightly sloping site with protection from strong wind. They will preferring full sun to partial shade.

Water freely during the growing season and mulch annually in the spring.

Lilium martagon received the Award of Garden Merit (AGM) from the Royal Horticultural Society in 2002 .

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The Turk's Cap Lily - Lilium martagon
TURK'S CAP LILY - Lilium martagon

HOW TO GROW IRIS RETICULATA

How to grow Iris reticulata

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Iris reticulata species and cultivars are one of the most beautiful of all the early flowering bulbs. Perfectly hardy, and exquisitely flowered, these small bulbous plants may only grow to about six inches high but their strikingly coloured blooms more than make up for their lack of size.

How to grow Iris reticulata

You can purchase Iris reticulata as flowering pot grown plants early in the spring, but you will get more for your money if you buy them as pre-pack bulbs in the autumn. When buying as dry bulbs they can be planted in clumps 2-3 inches deep in September or October.

They are best grown in a light, well-drained soil, and will look stunning set in the pockets of a rock or gravel garden. Avoid planting Iris reticulata in heavy soils as they will need the additional drainage to survive over the winter. Get them too wet and they may not be around to come up the following year.

When growing in containers or pots, plant six bulbs in a five inch pot, one inch deep using a good quality compost such as John Innes No. 3.

After flowering, feed with a liquid soluble fertilizer every week or so. This will help to ensure that the resulting divided bulbs are large enough to flower the following spring.

If you are growing Iris reticulata in containers or pots avoid the temptation of bringing them into the warmth of a protected environment in an attempt to bring them into bloom earlier. The chances are the the bulbs will dry out before coming into flower and so it is always best to just let nature take its course.

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