HOW TO GROW LABURNUM x WATERERI 'VOSSII'

How to grow Laburnum x watereri 'Vossii'

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Commonly known as the golden chain, Laburnum x watereri 'Vossii' is a popular deciduous garden tree noted for its spectacular late-spring blooms, The watereri hybrid is both a naturally occurring and cultivated hybrid, the result of a cross between Laburnum alpinum and Laburnum anagyroides. It s named in honour of Waterers nurseries in Knaphill, Surrey where it was cultivated and first recorded in 1864. The 'Vossii' selection was raised in Holland late in the 19th century and has since superseded the older forms of Laburnum × watereri to become the most widely planted of all laburnum species and hybrids.

How to grow Laburnum x watereri 'Vossii'

Under favourable conditions you can expect an approximate height and spread of between 4-8 metres making it ideal for the small to medium sized suburban garden. Both the stems and trunk are green due to high levels of chlorophyll behind the thin bark. The leaves composed of three ovate leaflets,

The bright yellow, pea-like blooms are produced on free-flowering racemes are up to 60 cm in length, appearing from late April to mid-May.

Laburnum x watereri 'Vossii' will perform best in a sunny position and planted in a well-drained soil. Avoid permanently wet, very heavy or waterlogged soils, otherwise improve the drainage or plant into a raised border. It can perform poorly in warmer climates and isn't recommended for use in Mediterranean or warmer countries.  Even in the milder regions of southern England and Ireland it is recommended to provide some afternoon shade (although this isn't particularly practical) and the occasional deep watering during hot, dry summers.

Laburnum x watereri 'Vossii' received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1993.

Note: Be aware that all parts of Laburnum x watereri 'Vossii' are poisonous. The main toxin in the plant is cytisine which can cause severe diarrhea, vomiting, frothing at the mouth, convulsions as well as intense sleepiness and even. Death is thankfully rare but not unheard of. The majority of incidents with Laburnum are related to the ingestion of the seeds which can be mistaken for the edible beans of Anagyris trees.

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How to grow Laburnum x watereri 'Vossii'

HOW TO GROW CORYDALIS LUTEA

How to grow Corydalis lutea

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Commonly known as the 'rock fumewort' or 'yellow corydalis', Corydalis lutea (now reclassified and correctly known as Pseudofumaria lutea) is a hardy, yet short lived perennial plant. Native to the southern foothills of the south-western and central Alps of Italy and Switzerland, it has naturalised in a number of of other northern European countries including the southeast coast of England where the main image was taken.

Under favourable conditions you can expect to grow to 15–20 cm tall with a spread of 30-40 cm. The maidenhair fern-like, finely divided foliage is yellow-green to grey-green. The yellow blooms are approximately 2 cm long and appear from April through to November. The flowers are borne in racemes on short, branched, leafy stems.

Plant pot grown specimens in March. Corydalis lutea will perform best in light shade with good moisture in a free draining soil. It will tolerate both full sun and deep shade. It is quite common to see Corydalis lutea growing wild in the cracks in old walls where drainage is excellent. Be aware that Corydalis lutea can self-seed in profusion, but you can keep it in check by uprooting unwanted seedlings.

Corydalis lutea can struggle to cope with the high humidity and high temperatures of English summer months, or cold waterlogged soils over the winter. Note, it can look particularly attractive when underplanted with blue Grape Hyacinths.

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HOW TO GROW SNOWDROPS FROM SEED

How to grow snowdrops from seed

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In England it used to be that snowdrops - Galanthus nivalis, were the first plants to bloom in the spring, but with an influx of new plant introductions over the past centuries this is no longer the case. That being said, they are still considered to be the first sign that winter's cold grip is coming to an end. Native to Europe and the Middle East, the snowdrop is generally believed to be a British native wild flower, or to have been brought to the British Isles by the Romans, however it is believed to have been introduced around the early 16th century.

How to grow snowdrops from seed

The seeds of most species and single-flowered species can be collected, however the seed pods will need to be left on the plant and only picked when they turn yellow. They can not be picked earlier and ripened indoors as this will drastically affect their viability. Interestingly, snowdrop seeds have a tail-like appendage called an elaiosome. The elaiosome is rich in fatty acids and attractive to ants. In the wild ants would carry off the elaiosomes, including the seeds, which allows the plants to become distributed further afield.

Once collected the seeds should be sown immediately however prior to sowing prepare the seeds by removing any parts of the seed pod adhering to it. Sow the seeds thinly in 9 cm pots containing a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'. Press into the compost but do not bury. Top off with 1 cm of grit-sand. Gently water in so as not to disturb the seeds and then place outside in a cold frame. Keep the compost moist but not waterlogged and do not allow the compost to dry out.

How to grow snowdrops from seed

You can expect germination to occur at the end of the following winter. Be aware that most conditions must be maintained throughout the year as drought can easily kill off the seedlings. The seedlings will be able to remain in the pots for a couple of years, and fed with a 50% dilute liquid soluble fertiliser. They can then be potted on into larger pots with John Innes 'No.3' or planted outside into their final position.

Snowdrops will perform best in heavy loams with plenty of moisture and some shade.

The first flowers will begin to appear in the 4th year but depending on conditions the first blooms may not emerge until the sixth year.

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Main image - Bank hall bretherton at en.wikipedia CC BY 3.0
In text image - http://pacific bulb society.org/
In text image - http://www.laslett.info/

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HOW TO GROW PHORMIUM COOKIANUM (Phormium Colensoi)

How to grow Phormium cookianum (Phormium Colensoi)

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Commonly known as the New Zealand Mountain Flax, Phormium cookianum (correctly known as colensoi) is an evergreen plant found throughout New Zealand. Despite its common name its habitat is generally restricted to coastal slopes up to above the treeline, and among scrub or grasslands, although there are outcrops in mountainous areas of the South Island. It was first discovered but not described by William Colenso (1811 – 1899), a Cornish Botanist and Christian missionary to New Zealand. The species name 'cookianum' was changed to honour his discovery. It was introduced to English gardeners in 1848.

How to grow Phormium cookianum (Phormium Colensoi)

Under favourable conditions you can expect Phormium cookianum to grow to approximately 2 metres in height, the length of the sword-shaped leathery leaves. It differs from the more familiar Phormium tenax as the leaves are thinner, more green, lax and flexible. The blooms are produced on panicles (flower stems) up to 1 metre over the summer. These greenish, yellow or orange flowers are then followed by twisted seed pods un to 20 cm in length.

Grow Phormium cookianum in a fertile, moist but well-drained soil in full sun. It will however tolerate some shade.

In areas prone to frost some cold protection will be required. Provide a covering of horticultural fleece or at least a deep, dry mulch to help protect the shallow roots. Keep well watered during the summer months, especially in its first year of planting.

Phormium cookianum received the First Class Certificate from the Royal Horticultural Society in 1868, and the Award of Garden Merit in 1984. The following selected forms have also received the Award of Garden Merit:

'Cream Delight'
'Tricolor'

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Main image credit - Avenue CC BY-SA 3.0

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HOW TO GROW CLEMATIS TANGUTICA

How to grow Clematis tangutica

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Commonly known as the 'Orange Peel Clematis' and for good reason too, Clematis tangutica is a gorgeous ornamental flowering climbing plant native to Mongolia and travelling west to northwest China. It was first introduced to English scientists when it arrived at Royal Kew gardens, London from St Petersburg in 1898. However it wasn't until 1919 that it first entered general cultivation.

How to grow Clematis tangutica

Clematis tangutica is a dense-growing, deciduous climbing plant noted for its rich-yellow, lantern-like blooms. It is an easy to grow species which under favourable conditions can achieve an approximate height of 4-8 metres and a width of 2.5-4 metres. This species has a somewhat straggly habit with grey-green foliage. The leaves are downy when young, and each leaflet is raggedly toothed, and either two or three-lobed. The thick-petaled blooms are produced on downy stalks appearing, nodding at first, in the early summer and autumn. The later flowers will appear at the same time as the first silky seedheads form.

Plant Clematis tangutica with the crown 5-8 cm deep (to help encourage new shoots to grow from below ground level) into a moisture-retentive, well-drained, alkaline to neutral soil. Like many other clematis the roots and base of the plant will need to be kept cool and shaded. This can be achieved by planting other plants closeby or apply a layer of pebbles at the base. It will perform best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade.

To help reduce the characteristically tangled habit of Clematis tangutica, cut back the stems each year to a pair of strong buds 15-20 cm above ground level. This can be done over the winter or before the new growth appears begins in the early spring at the latest.

Clematis tangutica received the award of Garden merit in 1984 from the Royal Horticultural Society.

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Main image credit - Anneli Salo licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.
Seedhead image credit - JiggerRooche licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license

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HOW TO GROW WITCH HAZEL FROM SEED - Hamamelis species

How to grow witch hazel from seed

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The Witch hazel, Hamamelis species and cultivar, is a popular deciduous garden plant noted for its unusual winter blooms. Most species are associated with North America, however there are two further lesser-known species, one in Japan the other in China.

Witch hazel seed pods - https://nhgardensolutions.files.wordpress.com/

Hybrids of Hamamelis japonica and Hamamelis mollis have proven to be the most popular as garden plants due to their relatively small size and spider-like yellow or reddish flower which appear after leaf-drop in the winter.

The 'Witch' in witch-hazel is a derivative of the Old English word 'wice' which means pliant or bendable. The hazel' part is simply due to the foliage looking similar to that of the native European hazel - Corylus species.

Witch hazel seeds are easy to collect during the early autumn. Be aware that the seed pods do have a habit of explosively shooting out their seeds so it is easier to collect unopened capsules and bring them into a warm, dry place inside a fine mesh bag. Once the seeds are released they are best sown immediately.

Freshly collected seeds will have a high germination rate and can be expected to emerge after about 18 months to two years. Packaged seeds will not only have a lower germination rate but will also take longer to germinate.

Witch hazel seedlings - http://www.whiteoaknursery.biz/

Using 7-9 cm pots, fill with a good quality seed compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'. Gently compress the compost into the pot and then press one seed into the surface of each pot. Avoid burying the seed, and then cover the seed with a thin layer of horticultural grit. Gently water in and the place in a heated propagator for approximately 8 weeks at approximately 24 degrees Celsius. Keep the compost moist throughout this period. Alternatively seal the pots inside a clear polythene bag and place on a warm, bright windowsill. After this period move the pots outside into a bright cold frame for the winter period. Allow the surface of the compost to dry out between waterings to prevent fungal growth, However make sure that the compost below the surface remains moist.

As the seedlings emerged they can be removed for the cold frame and positioned in a sheltered out of direct sunlight. They can then be hardened off for a couple of weeks before placing in full sun and potted on as necessary.

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HOW TO GROW THE STONE PINE - Pinus picea

How to grow the stone pine

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Cultivated in Europe for approximately 2000 years, the Stone pine is a hardy, ornamental conifer noted for its umbrella-shaped canopy and edible seeds. Known commonly also as the umbrella pine or Italian stone pine, it is native throughout the coastal areas of Mediterranean Europe usually found growing on coastal dunes and flats.

Harvesting stone pine nuts

The Stone pine (so called due to its large, stone-like seeds) is a distinctive-looking small to medium tree, which under favourable conditions can grow to at least 12 metres tall and 8 metres wide. It will usually grow with a single trunk that can be up to 1 metre in diameter, or occasionally will forks into multiple stems low to the ground. It has a dense, flat-topped umbrella-like appearance with thick, fire-resistant bark and large shiny, nut-brown cones. The stiff, and slightly twisted, needle-like leaves are formed in pairs and can be up to 15 cm long. The bark is orange to reddish-brown and will break into large, hard plates divided by deep irregular fissures as it matures.

Stone pine cones and nuts

The cones can also be up to 15 cm long, and take a full three years to mature. They are harvested with hooked poles which release the cones allowing them to fall to the ground for collection. They are then heated to release the large seeds (which commonly purchased as pine nuts), which were considered a delicacy by Roman soldiers.

The Stone pine will grow in any well-drained soil so long as it is planted in full sun. It will also perform well in sandy and nutritionally poor soil and is proven to be drought tolerant once established.

Avoid shady positions, especially in cooler northern European climates. It should be mentioned that while it is hardy enough to tolerate winters in the United Kingdom it will be too cold for the cones to mature. The Stone pine will tolerates strong winds, but not maritime exposure.

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HOW TO GROW COTINUS COGGYGRIA 'ROYAL PURPLE' BY LAYERING

How to grow Cotinus coggygria 'Royal Purple' by layering

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Cotinus coggygria 'Royal Purple' is arguably one of the best purple-leaved architectural garden plants. There are two acceptable ways for propagating Cotinus coggygria 'Royal Purple'. The first, and most commonly applied, technique is cuttings. The second is from layering which while being much slower it is in fact a far more viable method of propagation.

How to grow Cotinus coggygria 'Royal Purple' by layering

Propagating Cotinus coggygria 'Royal Purple' by layering is the simplest method and is best undertaken in September. First prepare the soil below where you are going to root the cutting by mixing in a good quality compost. Heavy, poor draining soils can be improved with horticultural grade coarse sand. Take a long shoot from the base of the plant and bend it at the point where you which to encourage root growth. The rest of the stem up to the apical tip will need to be supported in an upright position using a sturdy cane. Wound the stem at the bend by removing a small sliver of bark. You can apply rooting hormone powder to the wound but this is not really necessary.

Bury the stem a couple of inches deep then secure in place using a metal pin, brick or a suitably sized stone.

You will be able to sever the stem from the parent plant in approximately 12-18 months.

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Agave lophantha 'Quadricolor'

Agave lophantha 'Quadricolor'

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Agave lophantha 'Quadricolor' is a gorgeous, small growing succulent native to Mexico. Growing to no more than 60cm height and 60-100 cm wide it is a surprisingly tough specimen. Pot grown specimens tend to grow no more than 30 cm in height and 30-45 cm wide. Despite its size Agave lophantha 'Quadricolor' is capable of withstanding temperatures as low as - 10 degrees Celsius! In fact there are reports of them surviving even lower temperatures however the condition that there in afterwards was not mentioned.

Commonly know as the Quadricolor Century Plant, it produces dark green leaves up to 8 inch long, each one edged with yellow and a pale green mid-stripe. As a contrast the yellow marginal stripes are highlighted by dark reddish teeth, which will also flush red when grown in conditions of bright light giving the leaf four distinct colour zones.

Agave lophantha 'Quadricolor'

It will take several years for Agave lophantha 'Quadricolor' to bloom Flowering beings with the emergence of a tall green stalk which can reach 4 metres tall in will specimens. The top of the stalk produces greenish-yellow flowers and with most Agaves, each plant will only flower once, after which it will die soon afterwards.

In northern European climates, plant Agave lophantha 'Quadricolor' in either full sun or bright, filtered light. In warmer temperate regions or even sub-tropical to tropical conditions it is best to keep them sheltered from the full strength of the summer sun. Like most other agaves, Agave lophantha 'Quadricolor' will need to planted in a well-drained soil. If you can provide it, low nutrient, sandy soils will provide ideal conditions. They will tolerates dry conditions but will grow much faster with regular watering over the summer irrigation. Reduce watering over the autumn and then just keep moist, allowing the top couple of inches to soil to dry out before watering again. Keep it too wet and you are at risk of losing your plant from fungal root rots.

You will not need to feed Agave lophantha 'Quadricolor' as you would regular garden plants, in fact doing so can deform its habit and soften the leaves making them prone to insect and fungal damage. Be that as it may you can feed once every few weeks over the growing season with a low nitrogen fertiliser, or half dose regular fertiliser.

Pot grown specimens should be planted in a good quality potting compost such as John Innes No.2, although you can consider mixing additional horticultural grit or sand to improve the drainage further. Use preferably a porous terracotta pot when potting up, one that is no wider than 12 inches. Any wider and you may encounter problems when moving the plants to make the most of the seasonal temperatures due to its weight.

Over the summer place pot grow specimens outside in a sunny position, but one once they have been hardened off for a week or so. In the winter, bring Agave lophantha 'Quadricolor' back into a protected environment once temperatures start to drop below 5 degrees celsius.

Propagation is from offsets from the base of the plant.

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HOW TO GROW THE GIANT HIMALAYAN LILY - Cardiocrinum giganteum

How to grow the Giant Himalayan Lily - Cardiocrinum giganteum - seaforth-garden.blogspot.co.uk

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The Cardiocrinum giganteum is truly a king amongst lilies. Commonly known as the giant Himalayan lily, it towers head and shoulders above all other species within the liliaceae family reaching an impressive 3.5 metres in height. Native to the himalayan regions of of India, Tibet, Nepal, Bhutan, Pakistan, China and Myanmar (formerly Burma), this impressive specimen is surprisingly hardy and will grow quite happily in the gardens of northern Europe.

How to grow the Giant Himalayan Lily

As big as it may be it will need to be kept in a sheltered location under dappled or semi-shaded conditions, it is particularly intolerant to exposed, sunny positions as the dark-green, heart-shaped leaves will easily scorch. The giant Himalayan lily will do best in a moisture retentive, but free-draining soil.

With such a large growing species preparation is all important. Plant mature pre-packed bulbs in October while pot-grown specimens can be planted at anytime of year. Just try to avoid damaging the root system when planting.

Dig a decent sized hole and then backfill and dig in plenty of leaf-mould and well-rotted manure to the spoil. When planting pre-packed bulbs make sure that the 'nose' of the bulb is set an inch or two just above the soil line. With pot grown specimens keep the soil level at the same point as it is in the pot.

Water freely during dry periods and apply an annual mulch of well rotted farm-manure in the spring. Despite their enormous height, they do not require staking.

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WHY ARE MY CAMELLIA LEAVES TURNING YELLOW?

Why are my camellia leaves turning yellow?

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Camellias are not the cheapest of plants to purchase, in fact any specimen grown in pots larger than 10 lt can easily cost upwards of a hundred dollars! So once you have set your heart on a particular specimen, bought it home and lovingly planted it up, the last thing you want to see are its gorgeous, dark green leaves turning a rather worrying and insipid yellow colour.

Camellias are native to the acidic soils of eastern and southern Asia, and while they are more tolerant to neutral and even slightly alkaline soils than their distant cousins the Rhododendrons, they will still be adversely affected in most alkaline soils.

What is Chlorosis

Why are my camellia leaves turning yellow?

The yellowing of camellia leaves is commonly known as chlorosis, and is a commonly seen condition in acid loving plants grown in alkaline soils. Chlorosis occurs when leaves produce insufficient chlorophyll - the green colored pigmentation found in almost every single plant on the planet. The reduction in chlorophyll allows other pigments to show through - hence why the yellow carotenoid pigments now show.

Chlorosis usually occurs when there is a specific mineral deficiency in the soil, such as iron or magnesium, but in the case of camellias there may well be plenty of iron and magnesium available but the roots ability to absorb them becomes inhibited when they are subjected to a high pH.

How do you treat chlorosis

Why are my camellia leaves turning yellow?

Chlorosis can be treated by spraying the leaves with soluble iron foliar feeds every 2 - 4 weeks or more effectively by lowering the soil pH. This can be achieved by applying chelates, ferrous sulphate, aluminium sulphate, or sulphur to the soil surface and allowing them to dissolve into the soil by watering and rainfall. Of course this sounds a lot more complicated than it needs to be as water soluble, acidic plant fertilizers such as Miracid or Sequestrene can be applied as a weekly liquid feed to slowly reduce the pH and increase concentrations of the available iron and magnesium. Be aware that it will take weeks and not days for the effects to show through.

A traditional method used by Victorian plants men was to add a tablespoon of Epsom salts, dissolve it in half a gallon of water and water it in at the base of the plant. You can also apply this as a foliar spray. Victorian gardeners would also bury iron nails and other such items around the root ball before planting

How to avoid chlorosis on camellias

Camellia flowers

The simplest way to avoid chlorosis on camellias is to plant them in a suitably acidic soil.

If you are not sure of the pH of your soil then you can test it using a shop bought pH soil tester available from most large plant retailers.

Alternatively you can grow camellia in large pots using ericaceous (acidic) compost or, if you still intend planting your camellia in the ground where the soil is known to be alkaline, dig a larger hole than usual and back fill with plenty of ericaceous compost.

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THE WITCH-HAZEL - Hamamelis species

Witch-Hazel Hamamelis x intermedia 'Pallida'

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While I will accept that a lot of effort has been put in by the gardening industry to source and promote the very best winter flowering plants, still the range available today contains few inspirational species. But there is good reason for this. Over the winter period there are only a limited number of plant species in flower and as such there is little competition between species. This means that there isn't the need for a plant to expend valuable resources in producing large and colourful flowers at this time of year. The cold weather also means that there are few active pollinating insects so instead of using colour to attract what pollinators are left around, winter flowering plants concentrate more on fragrance instead. This has meant that winter flowering plants have evolved smaller, less attractive flowers and instead have diverted their energy into producing far-reaching, stronger perfumes.

Hamamelis x intermedia 'Diane'

However there is one exception, the magnificent witch-hazel - Hamamelis species, hybrids and cultivars. Native to China, Japan and North America the witch-hazels are genus of deciduous shrubs or small trees that depending on the species will grow anywhere between 10-30 feet tall.

The word 'witch' is a little misleading as this name has nothing to do with witchcraft or the occult. 'Witch' has its origins in Middle English wiche, which itself is derived from the Old English wice, meaning pliant or bendable. To add insult to injury, neither are witch-hazels are not related to true hazels - Corylus species.

The most notable feature of witch-hazels is their spider-like yellow or reddish flowers which appear from December to March. This is usually just before or after autumn leaf-drop depending on if the weather has been cold enough. These curious strap-like flowers are extremely resistant to even the hashish weather. In addition, the witch-hazel will often show richly coloured foliage in the autumn.

Hamamelis x intermedia 'Orange Beauty'

Hamamelis virginiana was introduced into English gardens by Peter Collinson who discovered the plant through correspondence with plant hunters in the American colonies. Collinson was a Fellow of the Royal Society and best known for his horticultural friendship with John Bartram and his correspondence with Benjamin Franklin about electricity.

Of course the witch-hazel was well known to native Americans who produced an extract by boiling its stems. This produced a decoction, which was used to treat swellings, inflammations, and tumors. Early Puritan settlers in New England adopted this remedy and its use has now became widely established.

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WINTERSWEET - Chimonanthus praecox

THE BUSY LIZZIE - Impatiens walleriana

THE BUSY LIZZIE - Impatiens walleriana

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Up until recently, Impatiens species and their cultivars have been without doubt some of the most popular of all summer bedding plants. Unfortunately, the cultivar range of Busy Lizzies - Impatiens walleriana has for the past ten years or so have been hit by a devastating fungus-like organism Plasmopara obducens, commonly known as Impatiens downy mildew.

Busy lizzie flowers

It was found for the first time in the UK in 2003 and while statutory action undertaken by FERA controlled any further outbreaks of the disease, following years were less successful and eventually a widespread outbreak of the disease resulted in 2011. Since that time, the common bedding busy Lizzie has no longer been grown under large scale commercial production. Moreover, you will be hard pressed to locate any Busy Lizzie seed from which you can grow your own stock.

Luckily, outbreaks of downy mildew have been confined to the Busy Lizzie cultivars and no cases have been found on the New Guinea impatiens -Impatiens × hawkeri or on the few species of Impatiens found growing in the wild in the UK such as the Himalayan balsam - Impatiens glandulifera.

Native to eastern Africa from Kenya to Mozambique, it is in its natural habitat a herbaceous perennial plant capable of growing up to 24 inches in height. One of its defining features are its incredible seed pods which, when ripe, will explode to the slightest touch. This rather shocking adaptation has evolved as a very effective mechanisation for for seed dispersal.

Impatiens walleriana - Forest and Kim Starr

Busy Lizzies will happily grow in any well-drained garden soil, and while they will flowers their socks off in full sun they can suffer from scorching during the heat of the summer. With that in mind they will do better planted in dappled shade if you are growing them in a Mediterranean climate. However be aware that as Impatiens produce succulent stems, the warmer the weather the more watering they will require. If the plants do start to wilt they will recover without any detrimental side effects if you get to them quickly enough. However, leave it too long and you can experience leaf discolouration followed by leaf drop. Luckily they are a resilient species and so if they are watered regularly enough from that point on then they will recover.

The Buzy Lizzie was commonly cultivated for parks and garden bedding schemes, but it was also a mainstay of hanging baskets and planted containers. Numerous cultivars had been developed which ranged in colours from white to purple, and all colours in between. The Super Elfin series which was bred by Claude Hope in Costa Rica was the most dominant of all the available commercial cultivars.

Forest & Kim Starr file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported license.
The Green is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.
Donar Reiskoffer file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 License.

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HOW TO GROW ANTIRRHINUMS FROM SEED
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The Busy Lizzie
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THE ART OF GARDEN FURNITURE

Garden furniture

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It's no secret that I love gardens, but I do have quite a number of bugbears. OK, that's not strictly true; it's more that I can be quite opinionated. I know exactly what I like (when I see it), and believe that when it comes to any subject remotely related to horticulture I am always right! Of course, if my wife is with me then she is right (but I am always right to bring her along).

Amazing garden furnature

Gardening is expensive, plants are expensive and getting someone in to landscape your garden is even more expensive. We all know that right minded people can spend an enormous amount of hard cash on their garden. They have done so for centuries, and hopefully will continue to do so.

My issue is this. Once the garden is finished and the money all gone, only then do most people consider purchasing garden furniture. As this is far too late there is usually not enough garden space set aside to take a decent set of furniture and there is no viewpoint from which to admire it. But that isn't the worst of it.

Cheap furniture in an expensive garden is a crime against horticulture, perhaps even humanity! Do not pretend that you are only buying cheap now so that you have something usable whilst you save up for the good stuff, because you won't. On average most families will buy no more than two furniture sets in their lives.

If your garden is themed then purchase furniture that matches, as it will both lift and enhance the garden. Its sounds obvious but make sure that your ‘furniture-to-be’ is comfortable. Just looking good is not enough.

Amazing garden furnature

Be aware that there is a large choice of materials and a massive range of designs, not all of which are practical or fit for purpose!

A good example of this is the wagon wheel bench on the left: 

IT IS THE MOST UNCOMFORTABLE CHAIR I HAVE EVER HAD THE DISPLEASURE TO SIT ON!

Yes, it is attractive, and yes it is environmentally friendly because it is all made from reclaimed timber (if you ignore the environmental cost of shipping it over from the Far East) but a seat it is not. It is art.

There are a few rules to abide by when purchasing garden furniture.

1. Cheap furniture cheapens the garden.
2. Assess the quality of the furniture and its maintenance requirements.
3. Ensure the style of furniture compliments your garden. 
4. You can generally get a better deal if you purchase furniture August onwards.
5. Always do your research. 

The most obvious garden furniture outlet for you to begin your search in will be a well-stocked garden centre as they should have on display a decent range of furniture. It will allow you to select the style of furniture you would like, as well as giving you an indication of the scale of the furniture and its quality. However they do not offer the most competitive prices. Do not buy garden furniture online until you have researched the brands and are happy with the quality. If you are not sure, go back and check the rules!

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THE GHOST PLANT - Monotropa uniflora

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With the Halloween holiday just days away, this week's 'Freak of the Week' is the appropriately named Ghost plant - Monotropa uniflora. Although it looks as though it grows on the bones of the un-dead (hence it's other common name of 'Corpse plant'), it is in fact a herbaceous perennial plant from within the well known Ericaceae family.

Native to temperate regions of Asia, North America and northern South America, it is genuinely a rare find. Surprising when you consider the conspicuousness of its colour.

However, there is a good reason behind this colouration and that is because, unlike almost all other plants, it cells do not contain the chlorophyll pigment. So how on earth does does it manage to get the energy required for growth?

Like many forms of fungi (which it is not related to), the ghost plant is parasitic, which means it has evolved a way to gets its energy from photosynthetic trees. But it doesn't feed from then directly. It has managed to find away to feed from the symbiotic subterranean fungi which have a mutual beneficial relationship with the tree roots, usually beech trees.

It grows in shady woods with rich soil and decaying plant matter, often found near dead stumps.

Since it is not dependent on sunlight to grow, it can grow in very dark environments such as the under-story of dense woodland.

The insipid stems will grow to a height of around 12 inches, and are clothed with small scale-leaves.

As its scientific name suggests, the stems bear only a single flower, which are produced from early summer to early autumn.

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THE EYEBALL PLANT - Actaea pachypoda
THE HAPPY ALIEN PLANT - Calceolaria uniflora
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THE LIZARD VINE
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HOW TO GROW PROTEA

Protea flower - michelle-armstrong http://fineartamerica.com/

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Proteas are often seen as temperamental and difficult plants to grow, but the truth is that they are relatively easy as long as you follow a few simple rules. Perhaps the biggest mistake made is to plant and forget, because to ensure success you need to adapt your local environment to match its native conditions.

Protea - https://www.theantiquarium.com/

To start with, it is important to ensure your Protea has adequate drainage. They prefer a free-draining sandy loam although some of the hardier specimens are less fussy and will tolerate a heavier soil. Be that as it may, Proteas will not survive in heavy clay soils.

NOTE. Do not plant any proteas deeper than the surface level in the pot.

If you do have a heavy soil they it will need to improved by digging it plenty of organic matter gypsum to break up any residual clay.

In extreme cases you may need to plant your Proteas into a raised bed or at the very least a large, raised mound of soil to ensure a minimum level of drainage.

Most Protea varieties require an acidic soil with a pH below 6, although some will tolerate neutral to alkaline soils with a pH above 7. This can be confusing so research your Protea before planting.

No this part is important, in their native habitat most Proteas grow in soils that are low in nutrients, so they can be harmed by fertilisers which contain normal levels of phosphorus. With this in mind, it is best not to use any fertiliser when planting out Proteas.

To cope in this low nutrient environment they have a specially adapted system of fine roots which will develop naturally to seek out available nutrients in the soil

Protea flower - http://www.asi.at/

They will do best in full sun, and not closed in by other plants. The fact of the matter is that the more sun your Proteas can get the more flowers they will produce.

Of course there are always exceptions as some Proteas are able to tolerate being grown in semi-shaded areas.

Proteas are fairly frost tolerant once established. In winter they can usually handle frosts around minus 2° Celsius, but surprisingly, some of the hardy species can tolerated frosts of minus 6° Celsius - for a short period time!

The roots are susceptible to cold damage so over winter, it is prudent to protect them using a natural mulch such as bark, straw or leaves.

Protea blooms - http://www.netcore.ca/

Do not use mushroom compost as this can contain levels of phosphates high enough to damage the sensitive root system. When applying mulch, leave a gap around the main stem/trunk otherwise fungal rots can set in.

Once established, Proteas are pretty tough, but in the first year they will need watering at least twice a week in the first summer. This may need to be increased to daily if it gets very hot.

After the first year, species considered drought resistant can be left to their own devises while the rest should be watered weekly during dry periods. If you are growing in tubs and containers then they will probably need watering every day during hot weather.

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THE JADE VINE - Strongylodon macrobotrys

Jade vine - Strongylodon macrobotrys http://drawnassociation.net/

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If you have never before come across the Jade vine - Strongylodon macrobotrys then you are in for a real treat. It is truly one of the world's most bizarrely coloured flowers.

The jade vine is a relative newcomer as it was only discovered in 1854 by botanists in the United States Wilkes Exploring Expedition. They were exploring the dipterocarp forest of Mount Makiling on Luzon, the largest and most northern island in the Philippines, when it was first encountered.

Jade vine - Strongylodon macrobotrys

It is prized in tropical and subtropical gardens for its showy flowers which are a highly unusual colour, unlike that of almost any other plant. These range in colour varying from a luminescent blue-green to mint green. In fact it gets its name from its unusual flower colour as it similar to some forms of the minerals turquoise and jade.

If the flower structure looks familiar, it is because it is from the leguminous family. This makes it a close relative to the humble bean.

In its native Philippines, the Jade Vine reach a height of more than 20 metres, and unlike most other vines that are pollinated by bats! It is thought the bats are attracted by the luminosity of the flowers in the tropical twilight, and they hang upside down on the raceme stalks to gorge themselves on the vast quantities of nectar available.

Curiously, on such a large plant, the pale-coloured blooms can be difficult to see in strong sunlight and could be overlooked if not for the fallen blooms below the vine. Fallen blooms change color as they dry out, from mint green to blue-green to purple.

Sadly, In the wild, the Jade Vine is considered vulnerable to extinction due to extensive deforestation. Originally the islands were almost completely forested, but a survey estimated that only 20 per cent of the forest remained by 1988. The speed at which the rainforest is vanishing adds a sense of urgency to protect the remaining habitat and research into the jade vine’s floral biology.

Why is the jade vine jade?

Now this gets very sciency, complicated, and involves some words that I do not completely understand, but here goes it. The unusual flower colouration displayed by the jade vine has been shown to be an example of co-pigmentation, a result of the presence of malvin (an anthocyanin) and saponarin (a flavone glucoside) at the ratio 1:9.

Under the alkaline conditions (pH 7.9) found in the sap of the epidermal cells, this combination produced a blue-green pigmentation; the pH of the colorless inner floral tissue was found to be lower, at pH 5.6. Experiments showed that saponarin produced a strong yellow colouring in slightly alkaline conditions, resulting in the greenish tone of the flower.

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THUNBERGIA MYSORENSIS - The Indian Clock vine
Trachelospermum jasminoides

THE LIZARD VINE

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Not only is the lizard vine an absolute gem of the plant kingdom, it is a supreme a master of disguise. However, despite its startling look, it was discovered only three years ago by a research team cataloguing new species in French Guiana.

Headed by the renowned Dutch botanist Doctor John Apryll, the team heralded their new find as akin to a discovering a new primate.

Commonly known as the lizard vine or honeyvine, it was named after the head of the team, hence the botanical name of Fossilis apriliana.

The 'eye' is in fact a swollen flowering bud and is a defence to deter browsing animals from eating it. When opened, the flower produces copious amounts of nectar and is a delicacy of the local Wayampi tribe.

Unfortunately, the lizards vine's flowering period is very short lived as they begin to die back as soon as they are pollinated. Bud initiation to pollination can be as short as 7-10 days, and when the lizard vine is not in bud it is sadly a rather nondescript plant. This explains why it had remained undiscovered by the scientific community for so long.

Of course none of this true, I made the whole thing up. The image is a photoshopped fake, but looks soooo real that I had to include it in my Facebook page.

Of course you knew it was a fake as soon as you read the botanical name Fossilis apriliana. In other words - APRIL FOOLS!

For more information click onto:
CEROPEGIA AMPLIATA - The Bushman's Pipe
FRILLED LIZARD
HYDNORA AFRICANA
THE DRAGON SKULL SEED POD - Antirrhinum majus
The Dragons Skull Seed Pod
THE EVERGREEN CLEMATIS - Clematis armandii
THE EYEBALL PLANT - Actaea pachypoda
THE GOLDEN CHALICE VINE - Solandra maxima
THE 'HOOKER'S LIPS' PLANT
HOOKER'S LIPS PLANT - Psychotria elata
THE JESUS CHRIST LIZARD
The Leaf-Tailed Gecko
THE ORANGE PEEL CLEMATIS - Clematis tangutica
The Oriental Poppy
The Pelican Flower - Aristolochia grandiflora
THE PIG FACE FRUIT - Solanum mammosum
The Marlborough Rock Daisy - Pachystegia insignis
THE WORLD'S UGLIEST FLOWER - Aristolochia cymbifera 'Domingos Martins'